tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43903317246560445212024-03-25T04:43:26.715-07:00Baroque ChurchesA joyful celebration in sight and sound!Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.comBlogger133125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-46912434452590974722023-11-06T06:37:00.001-08:002023-11-06T06:37:44.289-08:00Durnstein<p> </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuNU-ck6r0jPzNVgFsd4OQZbI4Bc-GCxGTKUE7JV7DCpvLUUdPEO6hLiqxynNyzNz01keeH1MktXAaiP6zLeK2kLgLmuYNkRa65pgMWin_k3DdWjP7QKhrUUkCbpZ1nWwCtGpHqpyNVPo6O2qT6XHzYh-QxBc9EsqYNfNneA3tSFj1q_wX_j1tYvNZMEM/s1920/D%C3%BCrnstein_-_Luftaufnahme.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuNU-ck6r0jPzNVgFsd4OQZbI4Bc-GCxGTKUE7JV7DCpvLUUdPEO6hLiqxynNyzNz01keeH1MktXAaiP6zLeK2kLgLmuYNkRa65pgMWin_k3DdWjP7QKhrUUkCbpZ1nWwCtGpHqpyNVPo6O2qT6XHzYh-QxBc9EsqYNfNneA3tSFj1q_wX_j1tYvNZMEM/w640-h360/D%C3%BCrnstein_-_Luftaufnahme.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p>Durnstein Castle has a certain pull for English visitors because it was likely here that bad Archduke Leopold of Austria held our King Richard the Lionheart to ransom after the Third Crusade. We only clambered up there once on the first day. After that the attractions of Durnstein Pfarrkirche were much more attractive. Situated on the Danube it is such a charming place and a fantastic base to explore the Wachau, by bike in those days....</p><p style="text-align: justify;">The priory was founded in 1410 standing on a rock overlooking the river Danube. It was Prior Ubelbacher who had the existing roof and ridge turret pulled down and commissioned J.Prandtauer, Josef Munggenast and Matthias Steinl, and stuccoist Santino Bussi. The south portal is by Steinl with statuary of the Divine virtues with vigilance and strength done in 1718.The Priory courtyard was probably designed by Prandtauer.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Oss8MAoW9kiTOg7UGt6kJ0xQ7qeTOry3_DLYENvfWJb7ko9sJ_H4OMdrub3yJelYsFSTvGfvbq9guGmzWcW-w4iHq1BDDkuGjf1nE-jCKnDKq0tToPnzjjgw-XqriC66AGVjGJSILE3LgdinTDkj3Ksw18zlJBMWqPdfTKIHE3RZJ6T1p0YF7xBi3fQk/s1032/WF191554-uai-1032x688.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="1032" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Oss8MAoW9kiTOg7UGt6kJ0xQ7qeTOry3_DLYENvfWJb7ko9sJ_H4OMdrub3yJelYsFSTvGfvbq9guGmzWcW-w4iHq1BDDkuGjf1nE-jCKnDKq0tToPnzjjgw-XqriC66AGVjGJSILE3LgdinTDkj3Ksw18zlJBMWqPdfTKIHE3RZJ6T1p0YF7xBi3fQk/w400-h266/WF191554-uai-1032x688.jpg" width="400" /></a></p><p>The entrance to the church by Matthias Steinl has the Four fathers of the Church and Christ Our Saviour above.</p><p>The tower is the most memorable part of the exterior. It dates from 1733, richly ornamented with putti, obelisks and balustrades and is by Steinl and Mungennast. The blue and white decor is so memorable from the river/It is probably the finest Baroque tower in Austria. It seems to grow out of the terrace, almost like a tree trun <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXRi3Plxh4Ir2JhlmXlvgQtivsVQV5uwArmack8GXlBqBD2Td_1FIeEsqNPGfAIUJb1xH1QWQHY6xGqrFkgoy2gpNrPPPQ4fjit9d99QjoNqBDxGvVp0L0sn59lrf9XoaCr5BqNwTPqfjWTwfwLZePUeGRMrurmrvRHgpVgzYb0K2ZgMjZnVwmJ71GJe6/s4032/IMG_9777.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXRi3Plxh4Ir2JhlmXlvgQtivsVQV5uwArmack8GXlBqBD2Td_1FIeEsqNPGfAIUJb1xH1QWQHY6xGqrFkgoy2gpNrPPPQ4fjit9d99QjoNqBDxGvVp0L0sn59lrf9XoaCr5BqNwTPqfjWTwfwLZePUeGRMrurmrvRHgpVgzYb0K2ZgMjZnVwmJ71GJe6/w480-h640/IMG_9777.HEIC" width="480" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ33ukMNoMS6oplGWwx2UlDVxT44U-_pe3TjnOwA_NUh-CR-sBnksjKu2Jpue61CNSEhUM4AuYnCIMb4CgyS37IFAI5VYTcqB6FKaV5cEVof1u4GJScHIFXLaePN3cSLmURf6sqDE7ygGzvQRy6UKdZgY2G_zkNblk5Dn1z8bzS7kgXkJgezUX0XZt8qBx/s4032/IMG_9776.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ33ukMNoMS6oplGWwx2UlDVxT44U-_pe3TjnOwA_NUh-CR-sBnksjKu2Jpue61CNSEhUM4AuYnCIMb4CgyS37IFAI5VYTcqB6FKaV5cEVof1u4GJScHIFXLaePN3cSLmURf6sqDE7ygGzvQRy6UKdZgY2G_zkNblk5Dn1z8bzS7kgXkJgezUX0XZt8qBx/w300-h400/IMG_9776.HEIC" width="300" /></a></div><p>The interior of the church is intimate and there are over 100 angels present ; the walls are curving and above them stucco reliefs of the Annunciation, Nativity, the Magi and the Resurrection.The stucco ornament on the ceiling is by Bussi. The high altar tabernacle is unusually a globe. There are fine choir stalls with gilded scenes from the Te Deum.</p><p>On the south side of the church on the site of an old cloister there is a Christmas altar and a baroque setting for the Good Friday Holy Sepulchre, by Antonio Galli-Bibiena. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkr6cVVt-koMG3l099abAiFOIHeGKUHkyclXTNxQXk3OlW04YlMPCaxISbm-9KfPuHTpkF5q5IW2_x8cE0Y6SN88k7qqA-xTQm0llkIT9gPUlqgzJJGWDzkW20EbnZNBILKAI9SXqQ2_wxDgJo-OZFBBO0syNX8x9nUV2C_ZlNi3N8uzk-ShmWmb7jemFP/s4032/IMG_9778.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkr6cVVt-koMG3l099abAiFOIHeGKUHkyclXTNxQXk3OlW04YlMPCaxISbm-9KfPuHTpkF5q5IW2_x8cE0Y6SN88k7qqA-xTQm0llkIT9gPUlqgzJJGWDzkW20EbnZNBILKAI9SXqQ2_wxDgJo-OZFBBO0syNX8x9nUV2C_ZlNi3N8uzk-ShmWmb7jemFP/w480-h640/IMG_9778.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><p><br /></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-44483546271101929632023-11-04T06:47:00.002-07:002023-11-04T06:47:58.745-07:00Loreto, Prague<p> The Loreto shrine in Prague was built in Baroque style from 1626 and kept being extended and embellished until 1750. It was originally funded by Benigna Katerina Lobkiwicz. The Santa Casa Holy House is a replica of the one at Loreto in Italy. The Loreto Santa Casa comes from the belief that the Virgin Mary's House in Nazareth was transported miraculously to Loreto in Italy in 1278. The original architect in Prague of the chapel and cloister was Giovanni Battista Orsi. A second storey was added to the cloister by Kilian Dientzenhofer and the facade by him and his father Krystof. This includes the belfry with its 30 bells. This is played from a keyboard - 27 bells can sound. See the little video below.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/o-lTR9eyj8o" width="320" youtube-src-id="o-lTR9eyj8o"></iframe></p><p><br /></p><p>The Church of the Nativity of Our Lord is again by Krystof and Kilian Dientzehhofer, with ceiling frescos by Vaclav Reiner(1698-1743)and Johann Schopf.(1702-1772). It was consecrated in 1737 and finished 1738.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKerCRN98Zs-uW5m8YYp5mujQ04PFshLW9-LgE323Ue51HxGwQD2vDQntKnxzeWwsMJ64tiMMxDopqvyYcgsz53wMbGsip-OckQFZaez0_9B5aFDU1kqkysCz1U7UV4CYrGrHsWsF7rFOr50subrbYArEoIA0GOem4DnD8wmTV6exS_6OLcEyQ2uIhH3c-/s500/church_int_m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="500" height="469" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKerCRN98Zs-uW5m8YYp5mujQ04PFshLW9-LgE323Ue51HxGwQD2vDQntKnxzeWwsMJ64tiMMxDopqvyYcgsz53wMbGsip-OckQFZaez0_9B5aFDU1kqkysCz1U7UV4CYrGrHsWsF7rFOr50subrbYArEoIA0GOem4DnD8wmTV6exS_6OLcEyQ2uIhH3c-/w640-h469/church_int_m.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3oEhXrQ-tzH5KR4QIUSgOJbf42CP18224AnplNH3N-B9GXaF4d9qvAWJyXEULDiDWmZ9wGK0Syj-ZRmLoaqGDxEXSbzQXTOzwmoQLHF25kdM5HTqBi8WgZJILCkqnQWfPnTvOJFeB8qYfjcAYB3L8O0Bc-S52rdArrFbb4ZlwH0JLqTLcLPlKviNKF6Qt/s1500/Praha_loreto-04-2003_12_24.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3oEhXrQ-tzH5KR4QIUSgOJbf42CP18224AnplNH3N-B9GXaF4d9qvAWJyXEULDiDWmZ9wGK0Syj-ZRmLoaqGDxEXSbzQXTOzwmoQLHF25kdM5HTqBi8WgZJILCkqnQWfPnTvOJFeB8qYfjcAYB3L8O0Bc-S52rdArrFbb4ZlwH0JLqTLcLPlKviNKF6Qt/w400-h266/Praha_loreto-04-2003_12_24.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Exterior in the snow CC BY-SA 3.0</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPerZXnAeLsRB4vxxWB-RipBHoURfd_fNkcrK4-uPMc1k3_gPFtWYoabPrPNstSBl2ChXIbry-fMefElrErKvAm8I-LKjtdedaQ8FV7FhJtEK8Vyh_wdEPfU1GFOtnfm7m4ueFKjm7J2Wr7QqMLA2Rww54eMzPIdpcYEndVBwTchOEv0SYZY6izlywQlVg/s1600/Loreta_Monastery.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1262" data-original-width="1600" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPerZXnAeLsRB4vxxWB-RipBHoURfd_fNkcrK4-uPMc1k3_gPFtWYoabPrPNstSBl2ChXIbry-fMefElrErKvAm8I-LKjtdedaQ8FV7FhJtEK8Vyh_wdEPfU1GFOtnfm7m4ueFKjm7J2Wr7QqMLA2Rww54eMzPIdpcYEndVBwTchOEv0SYZY6izlywQlVg/w400-h315/Loreta_Monastery.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CC BY-SA 4.0 Rfinkels</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-9614829805210127302023-11-04T05:23:00.000-07:002024-01-24T00:32:20.480-08:00Santa Maria della Salute, Venice<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnofXS34Q2W5ZsznK4XP9I8orqXxgxS0c1BrbuEg7ItM9dJ5FgntXyL8L_pOe9VcqnfO3l2DwI5-2RcgTfY9W074rtJwlZfAUKYAXIINnfE1aMp7B2Jo7u1Zu4M-K34ogLmcJcX30YxH_8RfT0PuB6e8cuDqSbszD27QVWIaEXuAGaVxfW1HPpc88UfU8/s1920/Canaletto_-_The_Entrance_to_the_Grand_Canal,_Venice_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1310" data-original-width="1920" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnofXS34Q2W5ZsznK4XP9I8orqXxgxS0c1BrbuEg7ItM9dJ5FgntXyL8L_pOe9VcqnfO3l2DwI5-2RcgTfY9W074rtJwlZfAUKYAXIINnfE1aMp7B2Jo7u1Zu4M-K34ogLmcJcX30YxH_8RfT0PuB6e8cuDqSbszD27QVWIaEXuAGaVxfW1HPpc88UfU8/w640-h436/Canaletto_-_The_Entrance_to_the_Grand_Canal,_Venice_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic view of the Grand Canal by Canaletto</td></tr></tbody></table><p> This great church is a symbol of Venice, in countless photos of the Grand Canal, pivotal. But who designed it and why? The Republic decided on 22 October 1630. to build a votive church to celebrate the end of the Plague which had killed a third of the population . It would be dedicated to Our Lady. It was a key site and would symbolise the rebirth of the city. Eleven projects were presented. Among the criteria the building "had to harmonise with the site and had to make a grand impression." The winner was Baldassare Longhena, (1598-1682) whose design with its opulence formed a direct conrast to the nearby Redentore built 50 years earlier. Work began in 1631 but did not end until 1681, just a year before Longhena died.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg45Lu7VV5rQceX-ZD2Bk5I-LYFRkgCJ18LIWcUJOFuzQFeev3pH4mksAYIMwfo_0npe7MGHABDHPVnyMc5yWhY0nJ1XBWOuZtDbYuWaqo4kvDNYoD7QpR2RHyo6ltpQNK0WDZ-_C9q1aHbB1qSpEzo093iTtntM26Hh6_XcsntlOY-mMoHQZx3vEI2rgY/s1366/Venice_city_scenes_-_on_the_Grand_Canal_-_Polizia!_(11002248065).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1174" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg45Lu7VV5rQceX-ZD2Bk5I-LYFRkgCJ18LIWcUJOFuzQFeev3pH4mksAYIMwfo_0npe7MGHABDHPVnyMc5yWhY0nJ1XBWOuZtDbYuWaqo4kvDNYoD7QpR2RHyo6ltpQNK0WDZ-_C9q1aHbB1qSpEzo093iTtntM26Hh6_XcsntlOY-mMoHQZx3vEI2rgY/w550-h640/Venice_city_scenes_-_on_the_Grand_Canal_-_Polizia!_(11002248065).jpg" width="550" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BY-SA 2.0 Murray Foubister<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The octagonal design is set on a platform of steps and resembles a crown, the crown of Mary, Queen of Heaven. </p><p>Longhena wrote </p><p><span face=""Noto Serif", "Noto Serif", "Noto Serif-fallback-1", serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 17.6px; font-style: italic;">I have created a church in the form of a rotunda, a work of new invention, not built in Venice, a work very worthy and desired by Pmany. This church, having the mystery of its dedication, being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, made me think, with what little talent God has bestowed upon me of building the church in the ... shape of a crown.</span></p><p><span face=""Noto Serif", "Noto Serif", "Noto Serif-fallback-1", serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 17.6px;">John Varriano </span><span face=""Noto Serif", "Noto Serif", "Noto Serif-fallback-1", serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 17.6px; font-style: italic;">"Italian Baroque and Rococo architecture (1986)</span><span face=""Noto Serif", "Noto Serif", "Noto Serif-fallback-1", serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 17.6px;"> says the design " is among the most ingenious of the 17th century" and "can justifiably be called th first major Baroque church in Italy". The octagonal plan harks back to Early Christian Churches like San Vitale in Ravenna.However, the most important influence on Longhena was Palladio. E,g.The transverce sanctuary recalls the Redentore Church.</span></p><p>There are two domes and two bell towers. Six chapels protrude from the octagon and the entrance facade has Palladian elements. A first impression is of many statues in niches and a flock of angels and saints standing around the roofs up to the great central cupola.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyr3nvBrLr0hz1j-CWAxX3PeRTWJlzduWHgutz6OdlckAhHiEggyxNYe-xcTFojgTybyo0vHp9SY9X9wxvya1g116Osh4Q2_F5tLm63nnWICgzjEeULzH9yFJ7nmwNFg4iEHlEOnZwtN7L5jqZyEfbHaJJklO0QLc8jbqyJzFXFJYn-pQj34gc6O19rfeY/s1920/1920px-0_Venise,_ch%C5%93ur_de_la_basilique_Santa_Maria_della_Salute.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1276" data-original-width="1920" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyr3nvBrLr0hz1j-CWAxX3PeRTWJlzduWHgutz6OdlckAhHiEggyxNYe-xcTFojgTybyo0vHp9SY9X9wxvya1g116Osh4Q2_F5tLm63nnWICgzjEeULzH9yFJ7nmwNFg4iEHlEOnZwtN7L5jqZyEfbHaJJklO0QLc8jbqyJzFXFJYn-pQj34gc6O19rfeY/w400-h266/1920px-0_Venise,_ch%C5%93ur_de_la_basilique_Santa_Maria_della_Salute.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking toward te high altar</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>The interior is spacious with the six chapels leading off and opposite the entrance a large presbtery with side apses covered by a smaller cupola. The main altar was designed by Longhena and now includes the 12 03 13th century Byzantine icon Madonna and Child known as <i>Panagia Mesopantitissa. </i>It was brought to Venice in from Candia (Heraklion, Crete) after it fell to the Turks in 1669.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The Senate of the Republic decreed that every year on 21 November there would be a special service to commemorate the deliverance from the \Plague where a procession would proceed from St Mark's square to the church across a specially constructed pontoon bridge. This still takes place today. Tat's three weeks time - alas we can't go this year.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOcaiEkNkk3WPE4vIkR6N0I69yZ9nhMCWa-QGf-NnNe-JG8Bu4bN1YY9hkM87aIOpuPKnEekR7g7Z3TlZokreMOIN2AZiuvOUMjGqmEbQMAyOHs6ujnW7uVMbpmMxJOdGVKM59BZmfUrOk8QjeWotyTt2IoPLoE47RhFCGFipLOvLifUwh9_2ENcwhy2d/s425/grand-canal-w-gondola-and-salute-church-425-04888.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="425" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOcaiEkNkk3WPE4vIkR6N0I69yZ9nhMCWa-QGf-NnNe-JG8Bu4bN1YY9hkM87aIOpuPKnEekR7g7Z3TlZokreMOIN2AZiuvOUMjGqmEbQMAyOHs6ujnW7uVMbpmMxJOdGVKM59BZmfUrOk8QjeWotyTt2IoPLoE47RhFCGFipLOvLifUwh9_2ENcwhy2d/w640-h426/grand-canal-w-gondola-and-salute-church-425-04888.webp" width="640" /></a></p><br /><p></p><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-14611557288124081792023-11-03T02:46:00.000-07:002023-11-03T02:46:27.023-07:00San Xavier del Bac, Arizona<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbVb5M1VU4s_MjKr60bPoIchp1RsBPBAX__UsV2yqpC_JKbuWWNnpe3s06cPGNfRTdlEFsVK41MWJIOPptlJ4T5c2r2V-Wpe6bHLULR5YytEYPY3xNvn0AvZ3uTGQxSRycNuUF0EojuSyo38LgTBrq852MdNZZpXOD5WVem_kYMcCqz4JUksDfVeDo8A_/s1366/San_Xavier_del_Bac_in_overcast_weather.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbVb5M1VU4s_MjKr60bPoIchp1RsBPBAX__UsV2yqpC_JKbuWWNnpe3s06cPGNfRTdlEFsVK41MWJIOPptlJ4T5c2r2V-Wpe6bHLULR5YytEYPY3xNvn0AvZ3uTGQxSRycNuUF0EojuSyo38LgTBrq852MdNZZpXOD5WVem_kYMcCqz4JUksDfVeDo8A_/w640-h640/San_Xavier_del_Bac_in_overcast_weather.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CC BY-SA 4.0 Keyany</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Back in 2005 we visited Arizona. Tucson Old Studios were a major pull for me because I have been mad about the Wild West since childhood. Highlight in the studios museum for me was to see Hoss Cartright's hat as used in Bonanza! I digress - the same day I think we went down to see this old church. I must admit I was disappointed. Restoration was going on and the church interior was not in a good state. I believe it is much improved now. Alas no mobile or camera so the pictures below are not mine.</p><p>The original San Xavier del Bac Mission was founded in 1692 by Father Eusabio Kino, an Italian Jesuit. It was populated by the Papagos, who were agricultural - growing corn, beans, squash. The Spanish added wheat and different beans. Cattle and horses, originally from Spain were introduced. The first church was begun in 1700. Kino was unable to stay at Bac and died in 1711. He was a great explorer and missionary. The first resident priest was Father Francisco Gonzalvo but only for a year. Apaches raided the Mission and there was a Pima uprising in 1751 during which the first church was probably destroyed. Father Alonso Espinosa built a new church in 1756 just west of the present one. He ordered "a head and hands of Saint Xavier with a body frame resembling the statue in Vera Cruz" from Mexico City in 1763. It may be the statue we see today above the main altar./ Soon after in 1767 King Charles expelled the Jesuits from the Spanish Empire, so the Franciscans took over the Missions.</p><p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBKkXIH67B_SLf8d0TVFFdCJ9ENtvqWfBGN6ZDolT9HLXE-fMK7ijBMLLs_J4b6bRaqCVlxu3wMGJyQX4zptWJ9JkFFALfRo-C8bk-SW45QqJrOn-PZpbM7BLEVLZNyrF5oLqyBKRlRUGLfSn-N_ehNGA7J7sZccspnJIt7Y0D9ngcPHNytRILNdrrXnC/s1283/Missiona.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1148" data-original-width="1283" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBKkXIH67B_SLf8d0TVFFdCJ9ENtvqWfBGN6ZDolT9HLXE-fMK7ijBMLLs_J4b6bRaqCVlxu3wMGJyQX4zptWJ9JkFFALfRo-C8bk-SW45QqJrOn-PZpbM7BLEVLZNyrF5oLqyBKRlRUGLfSn-N_ehNGA7J7sZccspnJIt7Y0D9ngcPHNytRILNdrrXnC/w400-h358/Missiona.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cc BY-SA 3.0 Recline</td></tr></tbody></table><div>The first Franciscan sent to Bac was Father Francisco Tomas Garces in 1768. It was a trying time with more Apache raids.The present church was begun under Father Juan Bautista Velderrain in 1783. He did not live to see it completed in 1797. The designer is unknown.. Only one of the towers was ever completed and it is crowned with a dome and lantern. The other or right hand tower was not finished perhaps to avoid paying a tax to the Crown for a completed church. There is a narrow enclosed plaza in front of the church with small mortuary chapel to the left. The facade is covered with lime plaster and painted white. The central section is richly decorated with swirling volutes, shells, canopied figures in a soft red. The plan is cruciform with a large dome on a drum over the central crossing. The interior decoration was likely carried out by local Indians superintended by Spanish artists and friars.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1C-nGwHrN5Wty5Tmz0b4VhC0G3jniNLB1-8FjaZ_4WKJa1YPgWsuQJRemC-JvQ_HYMzOS6qUSqvsTw_0IQuNm9voI0sonyLzdgUJX4327x5Ss2j55Q3LkYCn2_kVg4u_u_5IwIv0huaoOaGQFLvla5Ma88aodExZVKRMftvS5RDzTb04KTaDQqDVNLsos/s1600/9FFDF84E-04CC-F92E-15FD084F93209A7B.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1C-nGwHrN5Wty5Tmz0b4VhC0G3jniNLB1-8FjaZ_4WKJa1YPgWsuQJRemC-JvQ_HYMzOS6qUSqvsTw_0IQuNm9voI0sonyLzdgUJX4327x5Ss2j55Q3LkYCn2_kVg4u_u_5IwIv0huaoOaGQFLvla5Ma88aodExZVKRMftvS5RDzTb04KTaDQqDVNLsos/w400-h225/9FFDF84E-04CC-F92E-15FD084F93209A7B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of the Church (National Park Service)<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>After the Mexican War of 1846-8 it remained in Mexico and it was only after the so-called Gadsden purchase of 1853 did it come into the USA and the diocese of Santa Fe. An earthquake severely damaged the church in 1887 followed by major repairs in 1905, and lightning strikes in 1939 of the west tower. Restoration has continued ever since and today the San Xavier del Bac Church "White Dove of the Desert" attracts thousands of visitors.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Take a tour with the little video below<br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aQfX3kKNkYg" width="320" youtube-src-id="aQfX3kKNkYg"></iframe></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3zsXU6p2ggcZMvA8hcFwGfVpOl2t5oudtGQAiUE-_HZigaq5bOhDLMqjgpx5iEtgNrwXnM7qfQuMSveb10_o2pz2X5U4S5molJ6qxXMjquBH6-m2Et3N-k_ddV6o_M30qemmVg9hJL2yIaIaq2ISGCyQd1WENZQAvj4STsNkolOGnZpwbuhMYNVgiUS-/s800/SanXavierDelBacMission.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="800" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3zsXU6p2ggcZMvA8hcFwGfVpOl2t5oudtGQAiUE-_HZigaq5bOhDLMqjgpx5iEtgNrwXnM7qfQuMSveb10_o2pz2X5U4S5molJ6qxXMjquBH6-m2Et3N-k_ddV6o_M30qemmVg9hJL2yIaIaq2ISGCyQd1WENZQAvj4STsNkolOGnZpwbuhMYNVgiUS-/w640-h432/SanXavierDelBacMission.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creative Commons CC BY-SA 3.0 Aznaturalist</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-63494460619671594522023-11-02T09:21:00.005-07:002023-11-06T14:09:38.037-08:00Gottweig Abbey<p> My memories of Gottweig are of arriving by bicycle totally out of breath, for it is a hilly area and it was a beautiful hot day. We were staying in Durnstein (more of this in a later post) and hired bikes to ride along the Danube. It was one of our best holidays ever. We could see this celestial city or whatever it was from afar and upon arrival it seemed even more majestic. I had been here a few years previously by car but the bike approach was infinitely superior, if painful. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOE-3MLH10FQhSDvh_syFEHjgw_uOvssQmV1i5YnaHjkH508Lr0I1whVxui9gltTPd8nvQlvmTt6qW-MV3fLEGwXbD-xZy8Y3IQdQI4gcXmJHBcFPVRdqkIyOi1-PNpFtrY2NWBMwLtqG63-bKfsAwqPwvjVpF_tF_5cdpFXUIC4lnvE0rNbYQFsyEvsys/s1920/Furth_bei_G%C3%B6ttweig_-_Stift_G%C3%B6ttweig_(a).JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1158" data-original-width="1920" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOE-3MLH10FQhSDvh_syFEHjgw_uOvssQmV1i5YnaHjkH508Lr0I1whVxui9gltTPd8nvQlvmTt6qW-MV3fLEGwXbD-xZy8Y3IQdQI4gcXmJHBcFPVRdqkIyOi1-PNpFtrY2NWBMwLtqG63-bKfsAwqPwvjVpF_tF_5cdpFXUIC4lnvE0rNbYQFsyEvsys/w400-h241/Furth_bei_G%C3%B6ttweig_-_Stift_G%C3%B6ttweig_(a).JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p>Gottweig Abbey had been founded in the 11th century as a monastery for Canons Regular by Altmann, Bishop of Passau. Things didn't go well and laxity caused Bishop Ulrich of Passau to get Pope Urban II to agree to make a foundatiobn for Benedictine monks under the Rule of St Benedict. Prior Hartmann of St Blaise's Abbey was made Abbot and things improved. Gottweig became a famed place of learning. Abbot Hartmann (1094-1114) founded a monastic school, a library and a nunnery which started at the foot of the hill, and was later moved to the top and still going until 1557. Decline set in by the 15th and 16th centuries and by 1564 there no monks at all. Then there was a major fire in 1580.Michael Herrlich was brought over from Melk to become the new Abbot. He brought it back to life financially and spiritually and began a rebuild. Gottweig survived the 17th century satisfactorily until a major fire in 1718. Abbot Gottfried Bessel (1714-49) was responsible for the grand rebuild we see today to the designs of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgccLvIIWo9p99wZdtAFmkTUpB6ID__oY9afeSaYQ82eZLs6e0TEEMsJ5RoW96VJynVTHReu22LDoTNna5qc6nIbqpaQSZUI_X9HujkFQ2NeVjUHlPQmpw7Db2LyV7niZNZRcaNbc_mC2hwnSsQnQhiMuTqcbiPYJdkOkBVp4bt8jDybJyyWZL1Q4hicztZ/s780/salomon_kleiner_gesamtansicht_von_stift_goettweig_aus_der_vogelschau_nach_dem_idealplan_hildebrandts_kupferstich_1744_original.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="780" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgccLvIIWo9p99wZdtAFmkTUpB6ID__oY9afeSaYQ82eZLs6e0TEEMsJ5RoW96VJynVTHReu22LDoTNna5qc6nIbqpaQSZUI_X9HujkFQ2NeVjUHlPQmpw7Db2LyV7niZNZRcaNbc_mC2hwnSsQnQhiMuTqcbiPYJdkOkBVp4bt8jDybJyyWZL1Q4hicztZ/w640-h462/salomon_kleiner_gesamtansicht_von_stift_goettweig_aus_der_vogelschau_nach_dem_idealplan_hildebrandts_kupferstich_1744_original.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Hildebradt's vision was for possibly the grandest Imperial Baroque complex ever built. The fact that it was never completed does not lessen its significance as the epitomy of Counter Reformation Imperial pretension. Abbot Bessel had connections with the Schonborn family and hence Hildebrandt became the chosen architect. The Schonborns saw it as their very own project. Hildebrandt was a big expert on fortifications and he used this in his design. The plan involved parts of the old monastery, with huge bastioned fortifications a large domed church in the centre and state rooms led off two grand staircases The accommodation was clearly vastly in excess of what was required by the Abbey. Apparently the design was to suggest a crown on the landscape In practice Hildebrandt's plans were just too expensive and we are left with a huge torso. The best remnant is the tremendous staircase with a ceiling by Paul Troger of the apotheosis of Emperor Charles VI. The Escorial of Philip II of Spain was an inspiration : Gottweig is like a palace with the church in the centre. Its like the fortrress of God. This was the high water mark of he Austrian Empire, The Turks had been repulsed. There would be a Kaiserstiege amd a Kaisersaal in such a building.The emphasis of the links between and Crown and church to provide a common enterprise of Godly rule. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQSowBycjgzvp0RQ8qse5UN5cxPPkTdl6B5rgKCXQy25kZFQZc8jyKFWO8apc8O3kHnQweLpdA8tEaEpDDZ1y5VM6g-OnhIKqNyIuoXsvJtXSHhGg2Sy0StTLu8eFkXxtLoiet41cJqsf26vPMz9ZfQpvWKaBeMRnSRdsg4VUJNebNYgxadEz627NQHJr/s1821/Stift_Goettweig_Stiftskirche02.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1821" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQSowBycjgzvp0RQ8qse5UN5cxPPkTdl6B5rgKCXQy25kZFQZc8jyKFWO8apc8O3kHnQweLpdA8tEaEpDDZ1y5VM6g-OnhIKqNyIuoXsvJtXSHhGg2Sy0StTLu8eFkXxtLoiet41cJqsf26vPMz9ZfQpvWKaBeMRnSRdsg4VUJNebNYgxadEz627NQHJr/w400-h300/Stift_Goettweig_Stiftskirche02.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church facade CC BY-SA 2.5 Tschaensky</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"> The Church facade has a classical feel. The interior has a 4 bay basilica with narrower higher chancel. The organ screen at the back of the nave is unusual but over large. The colour scheme of blue gold brown dates from the 19th century and is not to everyone's taste.</div><p></p><p>Today there are some 150,000 books and manuscripts in the Library and a significant collection of religious engravings and various antiquities. It still houses a Benedictine congregation of around 30 members.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kgxtSjEnp9Bl-u85fPh7-xUNtY7c1uHz-OPqvScZzswZ2oWK7tW44XpSnTqhVJ3uq9ryIC7rxg1LJoV8ziGMEkpjsvfqhFxj8x0RACPGJH80UyeAz5Lme9FyoUD96BKGKUDsZNTQvP3wbPoEFnydzi33g-azCrce3iUoeeK3L6h0GP9QsPCpiSSwkx3E/s1920/Stiftskirche_G%C3%B6ttweig_Orgel_03.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kgxtSjEnp9Bl-u85fPh7-xUNtY7c1uHz-OPqvScZzswZ2oWK7tW44XpSnTqhVJ3uq9ryIC7rxg1LJoV8ziGMEkpjsvfqhFxj8x0RACPGJH80UyeAz5Lme9FyoUD96BKGKUDsZNTQvP3wbPoEFnydzi33g-azCrce3iUoeeK3L6h0GP9QsPCpiSSwkx3E/s320/Stiftskirche_G%C3%B6ttweig_Orgel_03.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ovXxSk0zNhg7cfarxTtjCTO5SLn26_QoQIyvRAfuX2fy9BzhrbN_1un1dkb5Q88WdzPrtFbHqByhWoCoeqgji5fOxJymL8jusj7PM1vR7X25Y3gCdArvKYXXjcDEpWP7J88ILW9ON40xNyUlg-KpXfbD3hX-7YN1mUl9PHNMMUlcKoSXo4jXrYnUHajM/s2786/801fa6b6-4c75-4432-98f7-b284fc8429dc-02-goettweigabbeyimperialstaircase_stiftgoettweigjosefherfert.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2786" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ovXxSk0zNhg7cfarxTtjCTO5SLn26_QoQIyvRAfuX2fy9BzhrbN_1un1dkb5Q88WdzPrtFbHqByhWoCoeqgji5fOxJymL8jusj7PM1vR7X25Y3gCdArvKYXXjcDEpWP7J88ILW9ON40xNyUlg-KpXfbD3hX-7YN1mUl9PHNMMUlcKoSXo4jXrYnUHajM/w460-h640/801fa6b6-4c75-4432-98f7-b284fc8429dc-02-goettweigabbeyimperialstaircase_stiftgoettweigjosefherfert.jpg" width="460" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Finally, go on a little tour with the video below. Easier than ascending by bike....<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qerq9MSAh6c" width="320" youtube-src-id="qerq9MSAh6c"></iframe></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1wNzT89e8twM1AgvuicmIVqyn3ED_598ryYqvJ00R9puFwmfX_Lx0RU5BAkT6gQ3yD4HJR3L-XfRac7Y3Ngg2q_tKvdyZ7ocqK3DCr0uIAr1pxo8jwbCVTHQPtlj7ugwTS_d0l2wQ4t6d7Bs9nDxto3XTL9fdb2spY1JMl58x3Ss_e9-AubnBi-4dqF4/s4032/IMG_9780.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1wNzT89e8twM1AgvuicmIVqyn3ED_598ryYqvJ00R9puFwmfX_Lx0RU5BAkT6gQ3yD4HJR3L-XfRac7Y3Ngg2q_tKvdyZ7ocqK3DCr0uIAr1pxo8jwbCVTHQPtlj7ugwTS_d0l2wQ4t6d7Bs9nDxto3XTL9fdb2spY1JMl58x3Ss_e9-AubnBi-4dqF4/w480-h640/IMG_9780.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-88017051946434940182023-11-02T08:40:00.000-07:002023-11-02T08:40:21.076-07:00San Andrea al Quirinale, Rome<p> I am ashamed to say that I missed out on this Church on 5 visits to Rome and only got in there last time in 2006. I cannot wait to return. I realise now its key importance in so much of what I have been posting about for years. I can see where the Asam brothers came from.. </p><p><br /></p><p><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-transform: none; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvEF66F4Fz9fP0GcZ7PlqQilXIhPsepgNUOaA-3Gv-wxyRZ0mNsZJIoViR9Yx6sqKo3mU_Z26FbJ-173aCb60RQSQY6PXSroJyZ1wBc206pl1oLkAlhmeU8iPchM_V1sC8kLa3nXShTA1RcvLpJOpWBnSOGuPE09GVbpKphVY1OMc5hRiGRnsmE7P1AmGs/s1366/Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="839" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvEF66F4Fz9fP0GcZ7PlqQilXIhPsepgNUOaA-3Gv-wxyRZ0mNsZJIoViR9Yx6sqKo3mU_Z26FbJ-173aCb60RQSQY6PXSroJyZ1wBc206pl1oLkAlhmeU8iPchM_V1sC8kLa3nXShTA1RcvLpJOpWBnSOGuPE09GVbpKphVY1OMc5hRiGRnsmE7P1AmGs/w394-h640/Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="394" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance CC BY-SA 4.0 Architas</td></tr></tbody></table><p>San Andrea al Quirinale was commissioned by Cardinal Camillo Pamphilj for novices of the Jesuit Order. It was built 1658-70. Space was limited and Bernini used an oval design with the longer axis parallel to the street. As you enter from the street the entrance is framed by two large Corinthian pilasters supporting a triangular pediment, and in front of these a semicircular portico raised on two Ionic columns surmounted by the Pamphilj coat-of-arms. </p><p></p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-uOhU3cAv6re2RXk6B_B_QL6ftgQzD8vIjfpqOe5vjfols5LzilsJTqFsTqcqYTZyiJ0NrlkP1vv9D6ZhwNZwv9G83491N0-xVGysQD6AEn6tRv0ol3ff6f9utMGZQzxTsBzD3-UBD9VMnX2UdlUNCSMt2yPuUtTrg-7nm94x-HYTjTPBR4RJnk-Nr6J/s552/SantAndrea_al_Quirinale_28629-500x552.webp" style="font-size: 15.2px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-uOhU3cAv6re2RXk6B_B_QL6ftgQzD8vIjfpqOe5vjfols5LzilsJTqFsTqcqYTZyiJ0NrlkP1vv9D6ZhwNZwv9G83491N0-xVGysQD6AEn6tRv0ol3ff6f9utMGZQzxTsBzD3-UBD9VMnX2UdlUNCSMt2yPuUtTrg-7nm94x-HYTjTPBR4RJnk-Nr6J/s320/SantAndrea_al_Quirinale_28629-500x552.webp" width="290" /></a><br /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;">Upon entry attention is drawn straight upon the highaltar : St Andrew is being drawn up to Heaven. The architecture, the painting, the sculptures, the light, everything serves Bernini's aim - the effect is theatrical yet devotional also. The picture of the martyrdom of St Andrew behind the high altar by Giuglielmo Cortese receives strong light from an invisible dome. A life size stucco statue of the saint by Antonio Raggi hovers over the broken pediment in front of the high altar. He is looking up toward the gilt stucco heavenly host who are awaiting him at the top of the dome round the edge of the lantern. Further above the dove of the Holy Spirit sheds gilt rays.</span><div><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNsdEJmmvCKSE3771PsMVE8auy7OzMbOtaGV7oPcoumc-upIrfvsjsLPbDxiYNub6xrUaO8Npqz-Y3KHPy7HN2myxF5HvAhOwUwznKlItiZuxSKGXlOTMiNb8NMHTBQd_kZC2I8NzsWLXIRW9XXm7IVi82vbtOg-yD7DVOXCGLA5Hzoc93q1XzT7JeJKDS/s1821/Sant_Andrea_-_Bernini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1821" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNsdEJmmvCKSE3771PsMVE8auy7OzMbOtaGV7oPcoumc-upIrfvsjsLPbDxiYNub6xrUaO8Npqz-Y3KHPy7HN2myxF5HvAhOwUwznKlItiZuxSKGXlOTMiNb8NMHTBQd_kZC2I8NzsWLXIRW9XXm7IVi82vbtOg-yD7DVOXCGLA5Hzoc93q1XzT7JeJKDS/w640-h480/Sant_Andrea_-_Bernini.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Andrew rises to Heaven CC BY-SA 4.0 Rickcarmickle</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span></div><div><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;">The attention has been drawn to the altar because in this oval design there are pilasters at the ends of the transverse axis : had there been chapels the onlooker would have not felt compelled to focus on the high altar. Colour is used with great subtlety and skill. Below we have the multi-coloured dark marble ; white .and gold in the heavenly sphere in the dome. <br /></span><p></p><p></p><br /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZchnCc7QqOwPREaxIJIKlrN-a0-Ml8xNiifOH9ocHBnUMC50gS7x4B36kVhYjIPOeyP8Bi_AskAQXWN_I_TyDJZBo3E8vjwlHo4LW6I8i7mjRwlLKGSRIIHfReZqW_H_de8oPP7rwASFypEttsucJGfKdnq-Jc0CXpxGRHSCuZ5y1Tos0EiDA8sUqArDu/s599/541px-Floor_Map_Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale,_Rome.svg.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="541" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZchnCc7QqOwPREaxIJIKlrN-a0-Ml8xNiifOH9ocHBnUMC50gS7x4B36kVhYjIPOeyP8Bi_AskAQXWN_I_TyDJZBo3E8vjwlHo4LW6I8i7mjRwlLKGSRIIHfReZqW_H_de8oPP7rwASFypEttsucJGfKdnq-Jc0CXpxGRHSCuZ5y1Tos0EiDA8sUqArDu/s320/541px-Floor_Map_Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale,_Rome.svg.png" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floor plan (Creative Commons Afernand74) </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;">(1) Main entrance, (2) Chapel of Saint Francis Xavier, (3) Chapel of the Passion, (4) Chapel Saint Stanislas Kostka, (5) Chapel of Saint Ignatius of Loyola, (6) Main altar , (7) Entrance to novitiate and access to the rooms of Saint Stanislas Kostka.s </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwGUcQKBG2JXk_WrNGZZbhQoDYCkEw7gClKJyoU2aWT6eHFMZZbNx7z-1YC7SNn6ZroH4GVwg5EZ1ezFxCd6wET9cM7V2qGMlv6smoT8GS5IkVJSwb7wKfXmDtd2cUzgNtPUtlpxH0PlQKCuMfzvh2NUsa5nm1bLf2WFum-_mZ0Wsn3hSaBZnQWXajYK3/s325/St_Andrew_(Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale)_September_2015-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="325" data-original-width="200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwGUcQKBG2JXk_WrNGZZbhQoDYCkEw7gClKJyoU2aWT6eHFMZZbNx7z-1YC7SNn6ZroH4GVwg5EZ1ezFxCd6wET9cM7V2qGMlv6smoT8GS5IkVJSwb7wKfXmDtd2cUzgNtPUtlpxH0PlQKCuMfzvh2NUsa5nm1bLf2WFum-_mZ0Wsn3hSaBZnQWXajYK3/w246-h400/St_Andrew_(Sant'Andrea_al_Quirinale)_September_2015-1.jpg" width="246" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Andrew by Raggi CC BY-SA4.0 Alvesgaspar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span style="color: #202122;"><span style="font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #202122;"><span style="font-size: 15.2px;">Finally I strongly recommend the page cited below and the little video, which gives an excellent intodution.<br /></span></span><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #221f22; font-size: 17px;">Cite this page as: Dr. Steven Zucker and Dr. Beth Harris, "Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Sant’Andrea al Quirinale, Rome," in </span><em style="background-color: white; border: 0px solid rgb(34, 35, 34); box-sizing: border-box; color: #221f22; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif; font-size: 17px;">Smarthistory</em><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #221f22; font-size: 17px;">, July 19, 2015, accessed October 30, 2023, </span><a href="https://smarthistory.org/bernini-santandrea-al-quirinale/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px solid rgb(34, 35, 34); box-shadow: transparent 0px -1px 0px inset; box-sizing: border-box; color: #a83a2a; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif; font-size: 17px; font-weight: 600; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none;">https://smarthistory.org/bernini-santandrea-al-quirinale/</a><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #221f22; font-size: 17px;">.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EhEg8Wx_NA8" width="320" youtube-src-id="EhEg8Wx_NA8"></iframe></div><br /><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /></span><p></p><p><br /></p><p><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><br /><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #221f22; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Inter, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 15.2px;"><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #221f22; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></span></p></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-22847285483588403412023-10-29T14:52:00.000-07:002023-10-29T14:52:03.897-07:00Santa Efigenia, Ouro Preto<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGtJ1Q8RrXseEALSwFaAaT2tWLrNlBZS8prIIkdNvzCwV8k50t6KXmYjUrHNHawgvhM1yKtGabPBY3v5j6db2bHRRY7VUermdoW0j3UCvjJw4vMhymcapU2wg790NhhRm1B2B4pDsrTKKeSMS8BvClOYYDl2XslL9nTdljffxUOBoBeOfzmu2gsIxG88y/s1200/Ephig.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="801" data-original-width="1200" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGtJ1Q8RrXseEALSwFaAaT2tWLrNlBZS8prIIkdNvzCwV8k50t6KXmYjUrHNHawgvhM1yKtGabPBY3v5j6db2bHRRY7VUermdoW0j3UCvjJw4vMhymcapU2wg790NhhRm1B2B4pDsrTKKeSMS8BvClOYYDl2XslL9nTdljffxUOBoBeOfzmu2gsIxG88y/w640-h428/Ephig.webp" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p>This church was built 1734- 1785 for the Confraternity of the Rosary. This served local black persons, free or slave. Originally they had met at the Igreja Matrtiz de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao de Antonio Dias. AS the town grew they decided to build their own church and this became Santa Efigenia. A freed slave Chico Rei and his comrades built it with gold extracted from the Encardideira mine. Legend says that some slaves hid the gold in their hair and washed it out in the church and used it for church purposes. </p><p>The plan of the church is a rectangle with no aisles along the nave. The facade differs from many in the town and has a semicircular cornice above the central window and there is a niche above the door containing the soapstone statue of Our Lady of the Rosary, by Aleijandindo. Manuel Francisco Lisbao, Aleijadinho's father supplied the wood for the construction and supervised carvings in the church by Francisco Xavier de Brito. The carving shows signs of black African practice especiall on the main altar with imagets of shells, snails, and horns. The ceiling is painted and images include the Four Doctors of the Church and a black Pope. The</p><p>The church was closed in 2008 for 6 years for major restoration.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3t58_A_1KfIfHXmH9gm5sDr9n_tPzpMdHBDoG8U4UUh9jlDlzwFxAMGhBNrZ3dTSesnMOP1cQ4KS0JQMRAZdLbg9mb5QVVTH3l7ZafqX_ilupm6zQUjLF1cP62Co4Gxvp9Y5OcQ2efZxv/s960/Igreja_Santa_Efig%25C3%25AAnia_via_ladeira.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3t58_A_1KfIfHXmH9gm5sDr9n_tPzpMdHBDoG8U4UUh9jlDlzwFxAMGhBNrZ3dTSesnMOP1cQ4KS0JQMRAZdLbg9mb5QVVTH3l7ZafqX_ilupm6zQUjLF1cP62Co4Gxvp9Y5OcQ2efZxv/w266-h400/Igreja_Santa_Efig%25C3%25AAnia_via_ladeira.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67V0aaP9poMxaeARuTsRlb9pnbJJQbf5hASMNeelLn6nXM_fMi-9pJhG1T7iyPZFQxg2mEdelJMwxf7Eh3rcn5qMDc4VqJPoyXJTUEd_W1YX_w4vEnAHz_JV7fTZIUGpDEZNHuQExoioc/s768/Igreja-de-Santa-Efig%25C3%25AAnia.-Ouro-Preto.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="768" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67V0aaP9poMxaeARuTsRlb9pnbJJQbf5hASMNeelLn6nXM_fMi-9pJhG1T7iyPZFQxg2mEdelJMwxf7Eh3rcn5qMDc4VqJPoyXJTUEd_W1YX_w4vEnAHz_JV7fTZIUGpDEZNHuQExoioc/w400-h225/Igreja-de-Santa-Efig%25C3%25AAnia.-Ouro-Preto.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJ0Dhs5kK3vLF3NWoeCpGDPsBPp4bl65y179oCw8ssi7WFGpwND6IrvmdEO3DafBFLd0_QQPPQjBu6ufFpOaMzEc81l1QpCsi7xSqKsPS2a319W6rHWYdBo5dB6y9quneOqt5NGXQQtwL/s768/Igreja-Santa-Efig%25C3%25AAnia-Ouro-Preto-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="511" data-original-width="768" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJ0Dhs5kK3vLF3NWoeCpGDPsBPp4bl65y179oCw8ssi7WFGpwND6IrvmdEO3DafBFLd0_QQPPQjBu6ufFpOaMzEc81l1QpCsi7xSqKsPS2a319W6rHWYdBo5dB6y9quneOqt5NGXQQtwL/w400-h266/Igreja-Santa-Efig%25C3%25AAnia-Ouro-Preto-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-21637299429895065932023-10-29T13:06:00.002-07:002024-01-24T01:37:58.648-08:00Mafra Basilica<p> Mafra is massive, crazy, megalomanic : the Escorial of Portugal. I had seen it on our first Portuguese trip in May 2004. There wasn't time to go back this year (2023) so I am revisiting online. When in Olbidos browsing in a fantastic bookshop in a disused church I found a travelogue about Portugal by Jose Saramago (Journey to Portugal, 1990) and recognised it as the very same book that I had seen a few weeks earlier in England and thought to be a good read. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9E2geYpCkGL3qmQg78uRv367oeEb5bWuEt3S8TEwkc-Fxwb8SuLkrSr4xs2M1BjWtG7nd7du5wjz-CunknPeKnfYnGc00RmgKqpzeot1Y9DQxzIHKYTspTjDDQhvjncCbbszs6sh8g_GctJbP_PWY_Kq62miWaDEEYPysDjgp83EiVUDXf5_uGdsUJMw/s4032/IMG_9546.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9E2geYpCkGL3qmQg78uRv367oeEb5bWuEt3S8TEwkc-Fxwb8SuLkrSr4xs2M1BjWtG7nd7du5wjz-CunknPeKnfYnGc00RmgKqpzeot1Y9DQxzIHKYTspTjDDQhvjncCbbszs6sh8g_GctJbP_PWY_Kq62miWaDEEYPysDjgp83EiVUDXf5_uGdsUJMw/s320/IMG_9546.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bookshop in Obidos in an old church<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> I hadn't realised that this was a famous Portuguese writer. I bought it, expecting to be praised by the assistant for my erudition, I now understand from her attitude that not everyone thinks he was such a good thing. He was a controversial figure. A few days later I bought his first novel 'Baltasar and Blimunda.(1982) I soon realised that here was the book I needed to read about King John V and Mafra, It was not quite what I had expected. Instead it was a violent critique written by a rabid communist! Reading 'Journey to Portugal 'at the same time it is amazing how the author loves old buildings, particularly Romanesque churches. In both books his knowledge of Catholicism is phenomenal but his distaste for its organisation, ritual and belief is so strong. He loves to ridicule the Church, its ministers and especially lecherous Franciscans. In 'Baltasar and Blimunda' we are told about how the King promises in 1711 to build a Franciscan convent in Mafra within a year if his wife bears an heir. They had been married nearly three years without issue. </p><p>The UNESCO citation about Mafra states :</p><p><span face="Inter, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;">"</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Royal Building of Mafra reflects the materialization of absolute power from the time of the King João V, as well as a strategy for consolidation of the Portuguese empire and national sovereignty, affirmation of the dynastic legitimacy, a closer proximity to the international sources of authority, namely of the Papacy of Rome, as well as distancing from the Spanish Crown. The international dimension of the Portuguese empire and the grandeur of its sovereign are at the origin of the gigantism of this construction and the aesthetic options taken, directly inspired by some of the best examples of Baroque architecture in the city of Rome. "</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxKoDdEUXyfDJG8TVa4C1idKRVVyQ2oM4gjHpZN9F6dUCDLgvlc7Wq7ELYn2ziPyAvJ4aFVGdsh91nMpTLr_sWV3mFen-pi7szKBN6H7TVilhQtQVTBrnqLrOkaSj2HcPm4dp7Gt-OHEXD8AI0JXfAYtuBU-4yQvxxOUM7hVcDyl0UPVNZlqhwhCjJFIY/s250/Europa_-_Portugal_-_Lisboa_-_Mafra_-_Palacio_(cropped).jpg" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="192" data-original-width="250" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxKoDdEUXyfDJG8TVa4C1idKRVVyQ2oM4gjHpZN9F6dUCDLgvlc7Wq7ELYn2ziPyAvJ4aFVGdsh91nMpTLr_sWV3mFen-pi7szKBN6H7TVilhQtQVTBrnqLrOkaSj2HcPm4dp7Gt-OHEXD8AI0JXfAYtuBU-4yQvxxOUM7hVcDyl0UPVNZlqhwhCjJFIY/w640-h492/Europa_-_Portugal_-_Lisboa_-_Mafra_-_Palacio_(cropped).jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The complex comprising Palace, Basilica, Convent, Cerco Garden and Hunting Park became a UNESCO site in 2019. Watch the introductory video below to get the idea.</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BwarxPBPxEE" width="320" youtube-src-id="BwarxPBPxEE"></iframe></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span face="Inter, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;">Anyone who reads 'Baltasar and Blimunda' will be horrified at the amount of money and human effort that went into its construction. It took 13 years employing 15,000 workers and as many as 45,000 at times, drawn from the whole country. It was only possible because the King received vast amounts of gold, silver and diamonds from Brazil. Up to 7000 soldiers were also employed to keep order during the construction. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px;">Apparently as many as 1383 workers died and there was a hospital for the sick and wounded. The site involved levelling the ground and 400 kg of gunpowder was used to blast it into shape. The story of Baltasar moving a huge stone over hilly terrain is horrendous. Doubtless the construction of so many of the churches on this blog that I have written about involved huge effort and cruelty, but I suspect that Mafra was exceptional.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqe71Ce9VBOQovvFmRf5nqSAyIOCF3VGw9_JRvDGfPrdLF2tboBTzib1Nx1nlT-vQ6m5sKIa1uXp2C6RtkBtfe7-q1z0d5pRbJQByIrA97eWupeOyGjIotGDjKSQ151B_obLKO_UlwF6xmjKfEqsvtfqXfdHHSe1rNg1cCZtaCvusJYavj8cTfYznOzGyc/s1365/John_V_of_Portugal_Pompeo_Batoni.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="1071" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqe71Ce9VBOQovvFmRf5nqSAyIOCF3VGw9_JRvDGfPrdLF2tboBTzib1Nx1nlT-vQ6m5sKIa1uXp2C6RtkBtfe7-q1z0d5pRbJQByIrA97eWupeOyGjIotGDjKSQ151B_obLKO_UlwF6xmjKfEqsvtfqXfdHHSe1rNg1cCZtaCvusJYavj8cTfYznOzGyc/s320/John_V_of_Portugal_Pompeo_Batoni.jpg" width="251" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King John V</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Queen gave birth on cue to a daughter, Barbara, and hence moves were made to build a convent. The site was agreed in 1713 and purchased by 1716 and construction started 17 November 1717 in a huge ceremony attended by the King, entire court and the Cardinal Patriarch of Lisbon. The initial plans were small scale but as the gold and diamonds got very plentiful the King inflated it to include a palace and much larger convent for 330 friars and a library for 30,000 books. John V is sometimes called John the Magnanimous - he was a generous patron of the arts, but wilful in his demands. Most of this patronage involved foreign artists for he would only settle for the best craftsmen and materials. The prime architect was the German Johann Friedrich Ludwig, an exponent of recent art in Rome, where he had studied.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The inauguration of the building was 22 October 1730. It was nowhere near finished- the lantern on the cupola was done in 1735. The 1730 festivities went on 8 days with the basilica being dedicated to Our Lady and St Anthony.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrlMRHXFj2osgcWqmzL0uZieSqj0brYJ5xw3FUMeGdVn-upzYXg6TrTbpLkZVHeEWPq7D6Hg6HfC1O_821VdoP3Zj3jeMQkOrYhI4aLIWHRGl-vUnUhojSnpk7rrY_6IZxW3PbqXkupNBkUqPhmr-5gWejjxPp-t7cpSWLzGsrNhcE3QLSCHeuPNU9SJ7/s1365/Planta_do_Pal%C3%A1cio_de_Mafra.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="1175" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrlMRHXFj2osgcWqmzL0uZieSqj0brYJ5xw3FUMeGdVn-upzYXg6TrTbpLkZVHeEWPq7D6Hg6HfC1O_821VdoP3Zj3jeMQkOrYhI4aLIWHRGl-vUnUhojSnpk7rrY_6IZxW3PbqXkupNBkUqPhmr-5gWejjxPp-t7cpSWLzGsrNhcE3QLSCHeuPNU9SJ7/w550-h640/Planta_do_Pal%C3%A1cio_de_Mafra.jpg" width="550" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The facade is 220 metres long and reminiscent of St Peter's Rome with the central white marble basilica and its balcony. The two church towers evoke St Agnese in Agone (Borromini). There are two rows of Corinthian columns between the towers containing marble statues of St Dominic, St Francis, and St Clara and St Elizabeth of Hungary. The basilica is a Latin cross 63 metres long, 16.5 metres wide and a nave 21.5 metres high. The interior has much local rose-coloured marble mingled with white marble, a barrel vault resting on fluted Corinthian columns. The cupola also is reminiscent of St Agnese in Agone.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCK5-VBsrf7xROd0Pxq9cXGBDkCe7inyLhJi-fqvt8VS_OnAa-vp4UaHo__DJNFkLzMm34viKz32lJM1mZ6ShHPLHSdRqaOItW3BRQmbYbfSh2VpDSxl9LfjW6uMCNK9Js1Vwmt-Wge4f67dYPZ9bLCbJaxYnCeKE0NfsIaQCyVXAHT9e0jYPaxdZnd7CE/s1864/22340-Mafra_(49043387738).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1864" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCK5-VBsrf7xROd0Pxq9cXGBDkCe7inyLhJi-fqvt8VS_OnAa-vp4UaHo__DJNFkLzMm34viKz32lJM1mZ6ShHPLHSdRqaOItW3BRQmbYbfSh2VpDSxl9LfjW6uMCNK9Js1Vwmt-Wge4f67dYPZ9bLCbJaxYnCeKE0NfsIaQCyVXAHT9e0jYPaxdZnd7CE/w640-h470/22340-Mafra_(49043387738).jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">There are six organs today, four in the transepts put in 1806-7 in King John VI's reign when the palace was in greater use again. They have recently been restored (1998-2010). To hear them try the concert below. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CsqARwUW1ZU" width="320" youtube-src-id="CsqARwUW1ZU"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Perhaps more remarkable are the two carillons in the towers, 56 in the north tower made in Liege and 54 in the southern made in Antwerp.They can operate from the the huge clocks in each tower or manually from keyboards. There is a story that when John V was told the price of a carillon he replied "I didn't expect it to be that cheap, I'll have two". Experts rate them very highly and they were first played at the inaguration in 1730. However, William Beckford the 18th century novelist and ecentric was not so impressed in 1787 : on his visit he heard "a confounded jingle of all the bells : then followed by a most complicated sonata, banged off on the chimes by a great proficient." To hear the carillons and see a performer try the video below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A6q47L9e4aQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="A6q47L9e4aQ"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The finest liturgical vestments were ordered by the King from France and Genoa and Milan. There are fine Italian paintings here and in the convent, and the sculpture collection has works by nearly all major Roman sculptors of the first half of the 18th century.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Rococo Library on the second floor at the back of the complex in the convent is 88 metres long, 9.5 wide and 13 high. By Manuel Caetano de Sousa, it is a marvel, with floor tiles of rose, grey and white marble.The rococo wooden bookshelves are in two rows separated by a balcony. The 36,000 leather bound books included some that were originally prescribed by the Church and today constitute a rfemarkable collection of western knowledge 14th-19th century. There are traditionally a colony of bats kept to protect the books from insect damage. I have never seen a bat, let alone in the Library at Mafra!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uKuD4x-EpnBYN_A0HncO5VKvc8-RT6uh0E4nt942XoMiFXMiWpjDFz-sS0h7yobWs_1RLMc0sxu5YpK_hvVSugX_KjsWSGsMdBQcFx7kIvSwTNvbpE-5ND5AkuEo8HgGUjp9DkWEvmc4BnFWx-7EC2hHYXhIRF2xFbUfLs0r6ixXiTAwPWz_N_DJ0Ctt/s587/06d5403d-41ab-4038-94fa-0a0b196b32d304c44ac2a62717631c_Mafra-Palace-Library-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="390" data-original-width="587" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uKuD4x-EpnBYN_A0HncO5VKvc8-RT6uh0E4nt942XoMiFXMiWpjDFz-sS0h7yobWs_1RLMc0sxu5YpK_hvVSugX_KjsWSGsMdBQcFx7kIvSwTNvbpE-5ND5AkuEo8HgGUjp9DkWEvmc4BnFWx-7EC2hHYXhIRF2xFbUfLs0r6ixXiTAwPWz_N_DJ0Ctt/w640-h426/06d5403d-41ab-4038-94fa-0a0b196b32d304c44ac2a62717631c_Mafra-Palace-Library-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-41880129176447106142023-10-26T09:14:00.000-07:002024-01-24T01:32:50.667-08:00San Francisco Quito<p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEha2psNG1nPgprsmsOpd_V1nR9kF_Cefz4ROcvEaIwuJriQpjVVljXe1vitbecbJLJ7RTVjUZh5pirnju_N-y1U9Nk5jQVP8scZDd2Bk7ZR8SCJy8g6Iw6PygFZ6L6VbpEkGv-LgDWyO2wIKrb7FE-Cc7gpaP-JfSOHy28-PwBVbVySEVQZ_umVjgfnrA=s800" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="800" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEha2psNG1nPgprsmsOpd_V1nR9kF_Cefz4ROcvEaIwuJriQpjVVljXe1vitbecbJLJ7RTVjUZh5pirnju_N-y1U9Nk5jQVP8scZDd2Bk7ZR8SCJy8g6Iw6PygFZ6L6VbpEkGv-LgDWyO2wIKrb7FE-Cc7gpaP-JfSOHy28-PwBVbVySEVQZ_umVjgfnrA=w640-h336" width="640" /></a></p><p> The convent of San Francisco in Quito has been described as the largest architectural complex in South America : the Escorial of the New World. Covering 3.5 hectares it has 13 cloisters, 6 churches, 3 chapels and a large atrium. It was the first monastery in South America, started in 1533 a month after the start of the Spanish occupation of Quito. There are some 3000 colonial art works and it had the best library in the 16th century Viceroyalty of Peru. I hesitate to swear to all these assertions, but if size is important this place deserves a place on this blog. I can agree that the facade may be the finest Renaissance exterior in South America and the exuberant Baroque interiors are outstanding.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj3K15Pyrj5ZICv2EbJVmdDdL_ntbzo9T0cYwagZZuZ_HfMTP8mJPzug4a0n3ARfOaI1__EepWqJVbdI9aY96KqTrmEZSz20YJDC6k6fS6keO5qfkEb7zceXpGDYOvSBkd2p7XgKgJX6a6LqqwQnE3HrMPN6io5eZEI0LZVINF9IpdDoMWI2jOW9ETevA=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="1024" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj3K15Pyrj5ZICv2EbJVmdDdL_ntbzo9T0cYwagZZuZ_HfMTP8mJPzug4a0n3ARfOaI1__EepWqJVbdI9aY96KqTrmEZSz20YJDC6k6fS6keO5qfkEb7zceXpGDYOvSBkd2p7XgKgJX6a6LqqwQnE3HrMPN6io5eZEI0LZVINF9IpdDoMWI2jOW9ETevA=w640-h398" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjLo7YhuYyticx7Fm0CN_Ks1uF1eM25dt4uNfnhPjrTnmY8Ww6YiVqRp7gucfmqmHCj01rI2EnwCJPCIfIRB-lh8PQLmrWXVp4SnRcgF1eczN6hFG1Bl6jebe1hDyfdXocuYW9hG0H02_8G9_vuIjFUtKI_4XL0_kMHs4eYvoO_frVhFkCzLpE6c0gwKA=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="1024" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjLo7YhuYyticx7Fm0CN_Ks1uF1eM25dt4uNfnhPjrTnmY8Ww6YiVqRp7gucfmqmHCj01rI2EnwCJPCIfIRB-lh8PQLmrWXVp4SnRcgF1eczN6hFG1Bl6jebe1hDyfdXocuYW9hG0H02_8G9_vuIjFUtKI_4XL0_kMHs4eYvoO_frVhFkCzLpE6c0gwKA=w640-h410" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> Get the atmosphere with this video<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tj9e-1wDqYo" width="320" youtube-src-id="Tj9e-1wDqYo"></iframe></div><div><br /><p>The main cloister was built 1553-81 and forms a 2 storied grey stone arcade with whitewashed arches. A fountain and palm trees in the centre complete this as a centre for contemplation and prayer. It would have been open to the public sometimes. King Philip II of Spain himself paid for the roofing of the church in 1553. Possibly the architect of the facade of the church was Benito de Morales a military architect or Alonso de Aguiar, a master of works.</p><p>An earthquake destroyed the facade towers in 1755 sending them onto the nave roof destroying the ceiling. A new ceiling was done under Esteban Guzman in 1769 with updating of the interior throughout the 18t century. In the decoration the rules of symmetry are forgotten as gilt scrolls leap up the arches of the nave, adorn the pilasters by the side of statues, and spread over ceilings. There are golden sunbeams in the ceiling which join with encrusted mirrors in the altar to add sparkle. The pulpit altar and clerestory feature twisted columns, garlands and angelic beings. Quito always had a desire for splendour and here it is at a zenith.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEji_Db_AKzSEZadIBqPPvDAEV0qQfDTdRfz21RWShVcBxHN1Ap6rhuuKEcjRjfHXB-QDpmyWdDVDqtk5UJ1IcLpCmWp0K9ZakUc9BHSPvw5_ZoLCoJQlEP9SG46UkHDLmj6OZj_W8p8ErL4VoLmniePm1NnDVi62K_ra24xkpAsgdwQAkwdEvGqKy9piw=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="1024" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEji_Db_AKzSEZadIBqPPvDAEV0qQfDTdRfz21RWShVcBxHN1Ap6rhuuKEcjRjfHXB-QDpmyWdDVDqtk5UJ1IcLpCmWp0K9ZakUc9BHSPvw5_ZoLCoJQlEP9SG46UkHDLmj6OZj_W8p8ErL4VoLmniePm1NnDVi62K_ra24xkpAsgdwQAkwdEvGqKy9piw=w640-h362" width="640" /></a></p><p>The choir stalls in their recessed position date from the early 17th century. There are 62 choir stalls of cedar wood and each seat has a saint polychromed and gilded at the top of the seat back.</p><p>The San Bonaventura Chapel is on the site of the original church put up by Fra Jodoco Ricke, a Fleming from Ghent. He taught the locals to use ploughs drawn by oxen and to read and write. He also founded the Colegio de San Andres. This used to train the sons of local Indian dignatories to participate in Church services, play musical instruments, including organ, and to do sculpture and painting. This led to the sculpture school of Bernardo Legada (a mestizo) with its large workshop and many apprentices, flourishing in the first half of the 18th century. This was the famous Quito School with the well known Manuel Chili or "Rough Face." (1723-96).</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-90142121972943375652023-10-25T09:11:00.001-07:002024-01-24T01:25:01.884-08:00Noto Cathedral<p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwBkXCpKOMfHIfMa6fBXsrA9guO7asDm7Fx_svJjIPV2pgm5Tr6PJT0ZE-0yu_rvo3cqtNNb640vy49m4zlcZ_MBpgNWPrQwL6YYl6hlwJOeyWPS6AloQXM-Cn_-Avr_30VdRXyodOuqw5/s800/800px-Noto%252C_duomo_02.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwBkXCpKOMfHIfMa6fBXsrA9guO7asDm7Fx_svJjIPV2pgm5Tr6PJT0ZE-0yu_rvo3cqtNNb640vy49m4zlcZ_MBpgNWPrQwL6YYl6hlwJOeyWPS6AloQXM-Cn_-Avr_30VdRXyodOuqw5/w640-h480/800px-Noto%252C_duomo_02.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral square<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>We have a huge earthquake in 1693 to thank for this remarkable Baroque city in southeastern Sicily. The original town of 12,000was rebuilt a few miles nearer the sea. A master plan, probably by the Jesuit Fra Angelo Italia (1628-1701) had a gridlike layout filled with squares, churches and public buildings . It has been suggested he based it on Scamozzi's ideal city published in 1615. Very impressive it may have looked but the local population were not all happy. An important local figure Giovanni Battasta Landolini was the crucial arbiter in the replanning. In spite of the Baroque magnificence there were hidden slums, and no trees planted for shade to spoil the vistas. However the local pale golden yellow stone used throughout is undoubtedly very beautiful. Soft enough to permit carving it hardly requires any decoration. </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99miBDyprjx2Obl6kcS02idAgCK4fqR5cOcqkOOIzwfYIYuqMdztqwXrHAj9XjaxiInC0RmTrpOvYxdsS7FLNI51YsSEIewsIBFj_NXb81W6IXQnHS_R0c2obY2aSTxkwGhvdfXlYQP_B/s800/800px-CattedraleNoto-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="800" height="556" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99miBDyprjx2Obl6kcS02idAgCK4fqR5cOcqkOOIzwfYIYuqMdztqwXrHAj9XjaxiInC0RmTrpOvYxdsS7FLNI51YsSEIewsIBFj_NXb81W6IXQnHS_R0c2obY2aSTxkwGhvdfXlYQP_B/w640-h556/800px-CattedraleNoto-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Facade<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>The grid plan focuses on the Cathedral square and it is here the Cathedral of San Nicolo was built 1693-1770.The architect is unknown. It was one of the last churches in Noto to be built. French influence was strong in Sicily and our Cathedral facade bears the influence of Jules Hardouin-Mansart's Notre Dame Church at Versailles.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XtQxkYZrYDs" width="320" youtube-src-id="XtQxkYZrYDs"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p> A little video introduction<br /></p><div><br /></div><p>Earthquakes continue to dog this part of the world and the dome had to be remodelled twice in the 19th century. In the 1950s a lot more work was undertaken including trompe l'oeil on ceilings, and a replacement of the nave roof by heavy Roman bricks and concrete. In March 1996 a great part of the building collapsed : four pillars on the south side of the nave, one supporting the dome, all the roof and vault of the nave, most of the drum and dome and part of the south transept. The repair work of previous centuries was blamed. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>In June 2007 the Cathedral reopened. Interior works have continued. In 2011 a new high altar, lecturn, organ, crucifix and dome frescos by Russian Oleg Superego. The interior is simply painted white. This is my memory of the interior back in summer 2002 when I visited.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyA60WlgkYRfCetWQzbqUBr41z-iPvKH9yN5tQFJpjpYg6kbqedk5kFVcOtOV3K36FRF4HC5_FXOsrxle_LCOb_tLamwvrJOEsBbgRcXFDkqQ3QQvdsVs27BnfHkl9ThHAusIoHCv19ibV/s800/800px-Noto_Cathedral-pjt4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="800" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyA60WlgkYRfCetWQzbqUBr41z-iPvKH9yN5tQFJpjpYg6kbqedk5kFVcOtOV3K36FRF4HC5_FXOsrxle_LCOb_tLamwvrJOEsBbgRcXFDkqQ3QQvdsVs27BnfHkl9ThHAusIoHCv19ibV/s320/800px-Noto_Cathedral-pjt4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dome today</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OCeMbwfUQfeEY7RtP6Xhr98rt7lM3Gwnk87gxYxWxzMxCBcD0l4k4yKUEIuJ_zd5sPLcwhcejk_H43I4evQgGssVEWeVW9m_bheo9Gf5R9PYj_Jhkgdac_JnBYLXvLz2Te_UNnY6DqEe/s800/800px-Noto%252C_duomo%252C_interno_01.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OCeMbwfUQfeEY7RtP6Xhr98rt7lM3Gwnk87gxYxWxzMxCBcD0l4k4yKUEIuJ_zd5sPLcwhcejk_H43I4evQgGssVEWeVW9m_bheo9Gf5R9PYj_Jhkgdac_JnBYLXvLz2Te_UNnY6DqEe/s320/800px-Noto%252C_duomo%252C_interno_01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nave</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><div> </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-91428497432039332412023-10-15T12:59:00.004-07:002024-01-24T01:14:24.074-08:00Kollegienkirche, Salzburg<p> </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBfBIhCg-odluMHcGVmVo_RngQdFeqTBSshiYkqgsW1fjU_2uIp_l0mDqwd-6Q45V7rxj-pkEtwAsGdXTt5vRpdXslp2rjuDmWpd2n0LZzUoXieEAl0tQfQWffE_rW1M4pSgknI3VGMgB_dJDlmNgmnMAJ4L1AfFP4mdKDFLHud0HjnipmdHrIdNEtlJf/s1920/Kollegienkirche,_Salzburg,_bei_Nacht_02.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBfBIhCg-odluMHcGVmVo_RngQdFeqTBSshiYkqgsW1fjU_2uIp_l0mDqwd-6Q45V7rxj-pkEtwAsGdXTt5vRpdXslp2rjuDmWpd2n0LZzUoXieEAl0tQfQWffE_rW1M4pSgknI3VGMgB_dJDlmNgmnMAJ4L1AfFP4mdKDFLHud0HjnipmdHrIdNEtlJf/s320/Kollegienkirche,_Salzburg,_bei_Nacht_02.JPG" width="320" /></a></p><p>I first saw Salzburg in the summer of 1967. My friend and I were in a caravan and horrified at the prices of the candlelight concerts in the Schloss Mirabel and saw the 'great and good' in their evening dress and furs coming out of the Festspielhaus Mozart Zauberflote..... The Cathedral was a dose of cold water to me and I don't remember the University Church. In fact it was my fourth visit before I went inside! Only now in retrospect do I appreciate its attraction and importance externally. Of the inside I remember the bareness but little else. What an admission! I will try to make amends revisiting it now from my desk in St Albans, UK. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiicNS-RwyBPeC4GELou3sCpfW9jIKmAnelkKV3rZM5x_KMn_pgudMnDIjPNTHE1nAkpF-RnEiBjsm4KPeVKkwcx50TvL04yLBZgAJUOPH8ov5wrK3abUY8G2UedxWd1wokGAjAXqKPEYGo-pN2prOBDxawETFQgr3TQ0ZRLW1QLJLjsP46_4HMhuPpEPO/s1849/Salzburg_Kollegienkirche_vom_M%C3%B6nchsberg.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1849" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiicNS-RwyBPeC4GELou3sCpfW9jIKmAnelkKV3rZM5x_KMn_pgudMnDIjPNTHE1nAkpF-RnEiBjsm4KPeVKkwcx50TvL04yLBZgAJUOPH8ov5wrK3abUY8G2UedxWd1wokGAjAXqKPEYGo-pN2prOBDxawETFQgr3TQ0ZRLW1QLJLjsP46_4HMhuPpEPO/s320/Salzburg_Kollegienkirche_vom_M%C3%B6nchsberg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In the later 17th century the Benedictine University of Salzburg did not have a separate church and the same building housed secular events and church services. This was unacceptable to Prince-Archbishop Johann Ernst and he decreed a new church in 1694. At this time other major building projects for the Prince-Archbishop were being done by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach so it was natural for him to get the job. He was based in Vienna, like his rival Johann Lucas van Hildebrandt. Both were architects who design and manage, but do not supervise the construction. The Kollegienkirche is Fischer's second Salzburg church and turned out to be a masterpiece. He was using the same site which others had planned a church under Prince-Archbishop Paris Lodron. Fischer used a double Greek cross, increased the size and progress was slow because other modifications were made during the construction 1696-1707. The facade brings to mind Borromini, Guarini and Bernini.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-q73UkyaHzhMqxMhJXTFNqxjAttvFwAD9rb8tOgCao80gUCvd5bneoYN54Xv27ivhyHUQ4RfIz2t3Nvx2ZCXvCthAhVqHFhqm75guUHN4IGtu-qjV4dju8phyphenhyphenoSs0vAcXLCstW15z-wEQ2aStroc9UNsk7GzkEVoIgwqZSz5QENrSsrZ1sriinH-Vt7e/s376/Homann_Salzburg_Kollegienkirche_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="353" data-original-width="376" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-q73UkyaHzhMqxMhJXTFNqxjAttvFwAD9rb8tOgCao80gUCvd5bneoYN54Xv27ivhyHUQ4RfIz2t3Nvx2ZCXvCthAhVqHFhqm75guUHN4IGtu-qjV4dju8phyphenhyphenoSs0vAcXLCstW15z-wEQ2aStroc9UNsk7GzkEVoIgwqZSz5QENrSsrZ1sriinH-Vt7e/s320/Homann_Salzburg_Kollegienkirche_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engraving from c.1712<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Bells and a gallery organ were added in 1708. The various chapel altars were added in the 1720s. The high altar designed by Fischer was rebuilt in 1738. This meant the church was complete. Vault frescos were not favoured. Fischer's church was to be his white temple.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Church came through the Napoleonic War, the secularisation of abbeys in 1803 and other political changes in Salzburg, without major damage. It was reconsecrated in 1812 and got through the 19th century unscathed except for the loss of the Baroque organ. There were major renovations in 1863/3, 1866 and 1882 and several times in the 20th century - the latest 2003-13. I suspect this was going on during my last visit. I do not remember it as a church, more of a performance space, and indeed today it is used for exhibitions and concerts (just like our own Cathedral in St Albans a few hundred yards from I sit : there is a Sound and Light Show on tonight).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOeni9vHQhAD7iSbsGBHlw6I5mCCtwEt98nZNOus6P8RSEtAd9Emw46_0RV3IcoFIec0Jy0Get9wVvAAXm7TtmetW1ibBVSHdMk4LEEyo8gKXAbjNuh-mcXRqgRlSdDS4lcHZd21Pma8KfBjldrurOwMjgjjrvLj0ZAnD7opUCg34dbn883GTom7Pqg_z/s750/Kollegienkirche%20Innenraum_314355.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="750" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOeni9vHQhAD7iSbsGBHlw6I5mCCtwEt98nZNOus6P8RSEtAd9Emw46_0RV3IcoFIec0Jy0Get9wVvAAXm7TtmetW1ibBVSHdMk4LEEyo8gKXAbjNuh-mcXRqgRlSdDS4lcHZd21Pma8KfBjldrurOwMjgjjrvLj0ZAnD7opUCg34dbn883GTom7Pqg_z/w640-h410/Kollegienkirche%20Innenraum_314355.webp" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View into the chancel. Note the two huge white columns and stuccowork over the high altar</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The interior is lofty with barrel-vault nave and transept and a light filled dome. The use of space by Fischer originates from Roman and French models discovered while in Italy and this, combined with lots of light and no colour, produces an overwhelming effect. Use of stucco apart from the chancel is restricted,. In the latter Fischer has required two white triumphal columns with huge pedestals, and then the apse is dominated by the stucco of the Immaculate Conception with clouds and angels.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Overall I guess this great church is the forerunner of Weingarten, Ottobeuren and St Gallen. What more could I want?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This video gives a good idea of the atmosphere</div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ah4KaCGwaeQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="Ah4KaCGwaeQ"></iframe></div><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-37533440324516531732023-10-02T06:31:00.001-07:002024-01-24T01:19:46.530-08:00Cartuja, Granada<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo-vZKRi8q-Cag98GBb5cg5k57wFu8Re7NPQt4KHD2fWnxVsE08CyTml2tH5wlA4XflcoR76Cs2z3DLqvq4E7QSXr90V8gUd5-4dq6aFYw17Qr4_2qZH08Lt1nbYpujdNJ98vFX8-ZXy18WIdLDOwO7phu-d0T_Gi1qJ7k84W9KVKOfz9VOa6VURcMfVA/s256/Monasterio_de_la_Cartuja_Granada.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="171" data-original-width="256" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo-vZKRi8q-Cag98GBb5cg5k57wFu8Re7NPQt4KHD2fWnxVsE08CyTml2tH5wlA4XflcoR76Cs2z3DLqvq4E7QSXr90V8gUd5-4dq6aFYw17Qr4_2qZH08Lt1nbYpujdNJ98vFX8-ZXy18WIdLDOwO7phu-d0T_Gi1qJ7k84W9KVKOfz9VOa6VURcMfVA/w400-h267/Monasterio_de_la_Cartuja_Granada.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cartuja of Granada (<br />Germán Póo-Caamaño from Victoria, Canadá, CC BY 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I wonder how many visitors to the Alhambra in Granada have also gone to see the Cartuja? The remarkable sacristy in this former Carthusian monastery may have been an 18th century attempt to emulate its more famous Granada landmark. And there is more than just the sacristy...this is an outstanding Spanish baroque masterpiece!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sQWJudx6yXQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="sQWJudx6yXQ"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The above video is excellent : short and atmospheric. </p><p>The monastery building started in 1516 and there were monks there until 1835. The Napoleonic War and general neglect have seen the loss of the great cloister and the monks' individual cells. However the refectory, the chapter house and a few other rooms around the cloister survive as a museum.</p><p>The church served both public, lay brothers and monks. It was started in the mid 16th century but not completed until the first third of the 17th century. The interior decoration by Diaz de Rivero in 1662 used favourite Mannerist motifs from Andalusia and here they appear true baroque, The presbytery with the high altar is highly decorated. It contains four sculptures of a Carthusian bishop, St John the Baptist, St Bruno and St Hugo and large paintings by Sanchez Cotan and Bocanegra. The large baldocchino of the altar (1710) features a wooden statue of Our Lady by Jose de Mora.</p><p>Beyond the sacristy is the Sagrario or Holy of Holies, a remarkable High Baroque section by Hurtado. Porphry and jaspar walls surround a central tabernacle with Salomonic columns. (cf the Sagrario at El Paular). The decoration is florid, rich and the conception of the room is unlike anything outside the Hispanic world.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbXLQvjgELZIbabPBZVKkRqNRF-RvzoMdbdZZ4WenzXOMjkoKFbFCvtKvWlKdlKnseB0rbyCpVnPZYsafc_AcDTnoWIWoxn0_k7J8CeggQ-gGACtp9-eKjPOGnvVddhFB77vW65yF8sl2j40K0LGNZ0lZMOPigvl3csrlIHGZHsD0A-Zc7ZNWmhOv9ibM/s2000/F3vEpIpXsAA9mbU.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1335" data-original-width="2000" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbXLQvjgELZIbabPBZVKkRqNRF-RvzoMdbdZZ4WenzXOMjkoKFbFCvtKvWlKdlKnseB0rbyCpVnPZYsafc_AcDTnoWIWoxn0_k7J8CeggQ-gGACtp9-eKjPOGnvVddhFB77vW65yF8sl2j40K0LGNZ0lZMOPigvl3csrlIHGZHsD0A-Zc7ZNWmhOv9ibM/w640-h428/F3vEpIpXsAA9mbU.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sagrario with the tabernacle with Salomonic columns in the centre.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>However I must admit it is the sacristy that I remember from my visit. I had never seen anything like the Sagrario so had not understood it. The sacristy was different : here was a riot of decoration that could have been an 18th century attempt to rival the Alhambra. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHM0s5v-V10cAIQjMgko8zN9yX_EWFqpOS3zelYIe-mpFfY-MpOz05mfkaYf6Bt_IDpLwX9ERMmgYO7DetnqEmO1fIbPjplxs_uLjjxZU0mc_aSDX_LV_VEJmMMo6riyXgAYyLjXlAg_u9MfJD6lKqH6pK75u_Wel8wvCJUcWCerM6mOBi5sRcR4CGuuH/s341/Granada,_Monasterio_de_La_Cartuja,_sacristia_(1).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="341" data-original-width="256" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHM0s5v-V10cAIQjMgko8zN9yX_EWFqpOS3zelYIe-mpFfY-MpOz05mfkaYf6Bt_IDpLwX9ERMmgYO7DetnqEmO1fIbPjplxs_uLjjxZU0mc_aSDX_LV_VEJmMMo6riyXgAYyLjXlAg_u9MfJD6lKqH6pK75u_Wel8wvCJUcWCerM6mOBi5sRcR4CGuuH/w480-h640/Granada,_Monasterio_de_La_Cartuja,_sacristia_(1).jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sacristy <br />Palickap, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p> The sacristy was designed by Hurtado, constructed 1727 to 1764 with the stuccoist Luis Cabello worked there from 1730. James Lees-Milne in his "Baroque in Spain and Portugal" (1960)calls the decor wildly outrageous and compares it to fluttering foliage on a breezy day! I see it as beyond the rhythm of Roman baroque and in the fantasy world of rococo. It is not a church or chapel but a place for storing sacred vessels and vestments : there are cupboards of of ebony and tortoiseshell inlaid with silver and Mother of pearl and with silver handles. It seems so over the top, yet the monks who used it were likely highly reverent and used the place with deep devotion. Let's hope so! The altar is later : from 1770 by Arevalo and with its red marble veined with pink and white is quite classical in style. </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi08bJTr9clywBgS3RRxVRrULuiJyvyKc-c1RmZAJg1sXw_-O5lCYW346qNKoIeRMOIAAkchNHKn3WXAv5a2s4jsaNo6SXN4WiPejP2Tx43qCa88rZWcb8x9YfU7ENtlaKtG6BcU6qHzLDsfC-rekQYu90MKCopPpwv7EJY5ojdrwyyVa2XlWdGVZQfapO/s4032/IMG_9695%20-%20Copy%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi08bJTr9clywBgS3RRxVRrULuiJyvyKc-c1RmZAJg1sXw_-O5lCYW346qNKoIeRMOIAAkchNHKn3WXAv5a2s4jsaNo6SXN4WiPejP2Tx43qCa88rZWcb8x9YfU7ENtlaKtG6BcU6qHzLDsfC-rekQYu90MKCopPpwv7EJY5ojdrwyyVa2XlWdGVZQfapO/s320/IMG_9695%20-%20Copy%20(2).JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The church is the central section with <br />the nave culminating at the high altar<br />behind which is a Venetian glass gate<br />and a circular Sagrario (or Holy of <br /> Holies).The sacristy is the protruding<br /> structure on the left/<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-37929333423726745452023-10-02T06:30:00.000-07:002023-10-02T06:30:11.875-07:00Kappele, Wurzburg<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkETTd_ZuacbLfAkopuNydqreKQyHE9q2BOsLiP8yCFfwB1xpmM_qM6SsZC4wOy0YERGXIp5u_f_wVd3GBvS4UL1z6Wzj-jFn1hKa7vOpmcZ5TOnzSKTnmym6rYohSQfetkVLyWEwl7PIztVFnjUpUdSnbIK5qR_2jf6MAkizp6nhCcaAu3LuU6q78Cc84/s1821/Kaeppele_wuerzburg_festungsfoto.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1821" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkETTd_ZuacbLfAkopuNydqreKQyHE9q2BOsLiP8yCFfwB1xpmM_qM6SsZC4wOy0YERGXIp5u_f_wVd3GBvS4UL1z6Wzj-jFn1hKa7vOpmcZ5TOnzSKTnmym6rYohSQfetkVLyWEwl7PIztVFnjUpUdSnbIK5qR_2jf6MAkizp6nhCcaAu3LuU6q78Cc84/w640-h480/Kaeppele_wuerzburg_festungsfoto.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Kappele from the Marienberg hill (Creative Commons)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> Years before I went to Portugal and experienced the <a href="http://baroquechurch.blogspot.com/2023/01/bom-jesus-do-monte-braga.html">Bom Jesus stairway near Braga</a>, I had experienced the Kappele at the top of the St Nicholas Hill in Wurzburg. I had not seen any of these stepped pilgrimage centres on a hill. This Via Crucis (Way of the Cross) has 14 stations of the Cross with a church at the top and I had heard that Balthasar Neumann had been involved in its construction. This seems to be the time to revisit in this post.<div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjggIiLpxfkZZG3VwMhY3Fax6dhRxdBe1iuJ_pAvA26OU0WYWYUVALTUaOCKAVgwMAwQnzNvWxRHKKEPYjFktzKdfgg3EHUSYwlZVqaOD8QZCTHgEFcsoR3AGOT-p4GmWxUM5qZocwRZga16StcVgT2sc6Uo6LWkhJQkpLFbkPwxiwDY9RKhHfHtmx6Hcni/s1422/Nave,_K%C3%A4ppelle,_W%C3%BCrzburg_20140804.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="1422" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjggIiLpxfkZZG3VwMhY3Fax6dhRxdBe1iuJ_pAvA26OU0WYWYUVALTUaOCKAVgwMAwQnzNvWxRHKKEPYjFktzKdfgg3EHUSYwlZVqaOD8QZCTHgEFcsoR3AGOT-p4GmWxUM5qZocwRZga16StcVgT2sc6Uo6LWkhJQkpLFbkPwxiwDY9RKhHfHtmx6Hcni/w400-h384/Nave,_K%C3%A4ppelle,_W%C3%BCrzburg_20140804.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of the church (Creative Commons)<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>St Nicholas hill is next to another hill on the same side of the river Main (opposite the city centre) containing the formidable Marienberg fortress. A wayside shrine grew up on St Nicholas hill during the Thirty Years War (1618-48) and after miracles were reported in 1650 there was pressure to build a more suitable chapel. The ruling Prince-Bishops were not keen on this due to its position near the fortress. Pressure continued and access was improved. Plans were drawn by Balthasar Neumann in the 1730s but lack of funds, particularly from Friedrich Carl von Schonborn, prevented the rebuilding project. Eventually under his successor Anselm Franz von Ingelheim revised plans by Neumann were accepted, money found, and work began in 1747. The Capuchins became involved from this time and established a hospice and helped pilgrims. Another new Prince-Bishop, Carl Philipp von Greiffenclau reinstated Neumann and provided funds to complete the church. The two thin towers on the facade with their spiky onion domes stick in the mind. Stucco work by Johann Michael Feichtmayr and ceilings by Matthias Gunther were finished by 1752 and they gave it the rococo feel that we experience today. </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1nOjqb3-24otFM5I7Czf4QyMXcO0Nt7l3osiN4KDfUO1HcQhuLx56eSUEE088V6W_dhBZbZ85s9V9AYhmvI_QHH8-Vaafr8ba11q8BDN_HXfsxENNuf2fUs3W4TD-O6XHoKZJbWx5tRJdHfIHVViEgKYuLpcyM0hcjCbcViV9jvOEcculaHRT0oZUCKJu/s1821/K%C3%A4ppele_W%C3%BCrzburg_Deckenfresken(1752).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="1821" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1nOjqb3-24otFM5I7Czf4QyMXcO0Nt7l3osiN4KDfUO1HcQhuLx56eSUEE088V6W_dhBZbZ85s9V9AYhmvI_QHH8-Vaafr8ba11q8BDN_HXfsxENNuf2fUs3W4TD-O6XHoKZJbWx5tRJdHfIHVViEgKYuLpcyM0hcjCbcViV9jvOEcculaHRT0oZUCKJu/w400-h300/K%C3%A4ppele_W%C3%BCrzburg_Deckenfresken(1752).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of ceiling fresco by Gunther (Creative Commons)<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div>The way up to the church was given its stepped terrace from 1761 comprising 14 Way of the Cross chapels on five terraces. There are 265 steps : I was younger then so I do not recall the climb, in contrast to the recent Bom Jesus climb in 2022... Apparently the Capuchins provided the inspiration for the staircase. The terraced Via Crucis with its church is unique in Southern Germany. </div><div><br /></div><div>A further change to the skyline was made when the old chapel of grace to the side of the church was replaced entirely by a new building in 1778 planned by Johann Philipp Geigel and Johann Michael Fischer, who were working on the Via Crucis at the time. The interior apparently is neo-classical and gloomy. I do not recall it. </div><div><br /></div><div>Fortunately the Kappele has survived both the secularisation after 1803 and various major wars. Restorations in the 19th century were less fortunate and I look forward to return one day, to climb the stairs (??) and enjoy the interior of the church with its frescos hopefully cleaned up. <br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0z0yUy2-ibY6yfz-YqtGF37vNeW-SzLE02KwveHMjs2OVO3IGDK_iXstg4WjQFg0BtjbzpRis5eX3x17AKgiqfXKy6Sea82ExiHGwTqNMp8-_vGeYxrieQJK8bnlfcWFqmryYRkUEec0AwWQhNt0c-n0ZOj_auMAx6o7FaKpH5vEulH3Lb7kMTF-q14I/s325/WurzburgKaeppeleplan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="325" data-original-width="220" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0z0yUy2-ibY6yfz-YqtGF37vNeW-SzLE02KwveHMjs2OVO3IGDK_iXstg4WjQFg0BtjbzpRis5eX3x17AKgiqfXKy6Sea82ExiHGwTqNMp8-_vGeYxrieQJK8bnlfcWFqmryYRkUEec0AwWQhNt0c-n0ZOj_auMAx6o7FaKpH5vEulH3Lb7kMTF-q14I/s320/WurzburgKaeppeleplan.jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floor plan : church is below <br />with towers on the left <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-20943086326456653922023-09-29T11:51:00.000-07:002024-02-10T05:25:45.061-08:00Kappel<p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zBRELHHDg4EVAsjfMl-y1QL_vPqmna55WIy7M2AX_7XxUZgx96WAXyf8Jjc0zmnJcXeMfHkuG2rDmb2aUCMk47N0CsfIarC2VrQznCAxOHWANgHB1NeRfJZd1gVQE7jxEocohW1Cjv2Ya6zl3JLBWEoAsnIMitd5DhFvmXxKidPBiQs12wk3IrERZght/s4032/IMG_9693.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zBRELHHDg4EVAsjfMl-y1QL_vPqmna55WIy7M2AX_7XxUZgx96WAXyf8Jjc0zmnJcXeMfHkuG2rDmb2aUCMk47N0CsfIarC2VrQznCAxOHWANgHB1NeRfJZd1gVQE7jxEocohW1Cjv2Ya6zl3JLBWEoAsnIMitd5DhFvmXxKidPBiQs12wk3IrERZght/w300-h400/IMG_9693.HEIC" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p> Crossing Bavaria toward the Czech border in the summer of 1990 I had already feasted on a number of the usual Baroque churches with two tower facade and dome. Suddenly in open country, between the Fichtel Gebirge and the Bohmerwald, I was confronted by a large circular object with turrets almost like rockets. I had read that this church was unusual but this something else. I had to include it in my blog series but my memory of the interior is a blank. In writing this I have come across the <a href="https://www.sueddeutscher-barock.ch/In-Werke/s-z/Waldsassen_Kappl.html">wonderful article by Pius Bieri.</a> </p><p>It was originally a pilgrimage chapel founded as an offshoot of the nearby Cistercian abbey of Waldsassen in the Middle Ages. The Hussite Wars and Thirty Years War were not kind to it but eventually in 1669 the Cistercians were back at Waldsassen. The existing chapel (only dating from 1648)was felt too small for the pilgrimages that were taking place so a new building was commissioned from Georg Dientzenhofer in 1684 . The foundation stone was laid the next year and the building completed in 1689, the same year as Georg Dientzenhofer died. It was the first of many individual buildings by the Dientzenhofer family. It symbolises the Holy Trinity by having three towers, and three apse like segments focussing on an altar : in effect it is an equilateral triangle within a circle formed by a low surrounding covered aisle. I find this hard to describe! The plan below will help. </p><p>The original design was modified after a major fire which had started in a nearby inn in 1880. The result was a change in the roof angle and the towers being made taller so they are more like minarets.</p><p>The ceilings of the apses had frescos, restored in 1934-40. I have no memory of the interior. It is good to read the organ stuck on a column like a swallow's nest was to be restored 2018/19. Maybe I will come back one day and dare to ask to play it!</p><p>The effect of the building seems to me a merger of Eastern, Slavic and Gothic : simple and striking.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0b44eZTHZ0QWhsWkuIN5DijAWcYWfUf4E8GQOY6gJTvT9hwqoSXlauww0v3Jhpvdv2cT8lsED_ScAP2ewIlp74-pQZOplAU2SUUoVY5NoItakPL_6AYr3MLDUKALLjuye4engrPEYaFaiBFpAHjnN1sftIe0cfJdop1JnFGAmZaejoojHcgNyHq1EehA0/s1290/Kappl_Grundriss_Gr.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1290" data-original-width="1147" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0b44eZTHZ0QWhsWkuIN5DijAWcYWfUf4E8GQOY6gJTvT9hwqoSXlauww0v3Jhpvdv2cT8lsED_ScAP2ewIlp74-pQZOplAU2SUUoVY5NoItakPL_6AYr3MLDUKALLjuye4engrPEYaFaiBFpAHjnN1sftIe0cfJdop1JnFGAmZaejoojHcgNyHq1EehA0/s320/Kappl_Grundriss_Gr.jpg" width="285" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-38488676449658913752023-08-22T06:03:00.001-07:002023-08-22T06:03:17.591-07:00Puebla Cathedral<p> </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyjOJOXzvAT3_6nbdnyDSv84IVj-D15PP2oKlZm4E52oWp41AQqC0_3WnY57KYCQDWLv7bRXA1GRdnfZgY2wfeuFsruF7Vd5PQtnTT_lFYmnr6k8Hbu8_uyuDecyDfevnAIW5o1Qr13qgs3IIUsbYwbiAFX-21nCLPQk7qLP6V8-lMUTfKhnHpEc0ukKA/s738/738px-Interior_de_la_catedral_de_Puebla.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="738" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyjOJOXzvAT3_6nbdnyDSv84IVj-D15PP2oKlZm4E52oWp41AQqC0_3WnY57KYCQDWLv7bRXA1GRdnfZgY2wfeuFsruF7Vd5PQtnTT_lFYmnr6k8Hbu8_uyuDecyDfevnAIW5o1Qr13qgs3IIUsbYwbiAFX-21nCLPQk7qLP6V8-lMUTfKhnHpEc0ukKA/w640-h520/738px-Interior_de_la_catedral_de_Puebla.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">19th century painting by Jose Manzo of interior of Puebla Cathedral. (Wikimedia Creative Commons)</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception ay Puebla is one of the earliest great churches built in the Americas. A church was started sometime in the mid 16th century, but the present building was begun in earnest in 1575 directed by Francisco Becerra and Claudio de Arciniega. The style was based on Herrera's Valladolid design in Spain. This Herrarian style is a late Renaissance phenomenon, characterised by cits austerity. Becerra was called away to work on churches in Cuzco and Quito in 1580 and work only resumed 1587-90. Work continued into the next century, with input from Juan Cromez de Trasmonte. Things cannot have been too good, because apparently outlaws hung out in the unfinished building. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8IjYEdjwiDd8flx-pZpN0eNWg83YeIO9Lgku9LQ9Ni3xTiODl-ntUDvzXsxn5ZqdjPkbJ-8D90hti3ElCPIMH10lR3Qn4cX8QH_dWAhdlUSCehU-OAKqs_RCCIAbmAuQeW-Db0nasEq_-yFLrV4Wg6TeGMHvNadQSaVtqWxFpF0qRkqB_-JllPJdeESH/s285/JuandePalafoxyMendoza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="285" data-original-width="220" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8IjYEdjwiDd8flx-pZpN0eNWg83YeIO9Lgku9LQ9Ni3xTiODl-ntUDvzXsxn5ZqdjPkbJ-8D90hti3ElCPIMH10lR3Qn4cX8QH_dWAhdlUSCehU-OAKqs_RCCIAbmAuQeW-Db0nasEq_-yFLrV4Wg6TeGMHvNadQSaVtqWxFpF0qRkqB_-JllPJdeESH/s1600/JuandePalafoxyMendoza.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza took charge in the 1640s, raised large amounts of money and with a workforce of 1500 raised the nave to admit more light and the unfinished building (no towers or facade) was consecrated in 1649. This was ahead of Mexico City in 1653. The main facade, the Puerta del Perdon was finished in 1668 ; the north tower 1678, with its 10 bells, including the 8 ton Campana Maria from 1732 rung on special occasions. The south tower only came the year earlier in 1731. Wish I could hear that bell! </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yg5LiOayDZw" width="320" youtube-src-id="yg5LiOayDZw"></iframe></div><div> The best chance you and I have of hearing the bells. You may regret this.....</div><p>Puebla is important for its domes, having the first true dome on the Mexican highland. Today there are 2 large domes, and over 30 smaller ones over chapels and the aisles throughout the building. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqudpsKDJeJc4nght1OKnp18DSQXDofnziqCQzJvI4IBHyrBVrbAJVE2MESEh0mkU7wGYiRrCEsHQmxndxeSSGSdAZ0JVJqSxYIxOLSEXSsvT7YVYD7qhvwOVPgP43WGOwTE-XgS_xX4em5gsbJxkHKTAo-L6ye1CXx8Axc-jSXONkGS03ntA4LyysWe5e/s599/479px-Catedral_de_Puebla,_M%C3%A9xico,_2013-10-11,_DD_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="479" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqudpsKDJeJc4nght1OKnp18DSQXDofnziqCQzJvI4IBHyrBVrbAJVE2MESEh0mkU7wGYiRrCEsHQmxndxeSSGSdAZ0JVJqSxYIxOLSEXSsvT7YVYD7qhvwOVPgP43WGOwTE-XgS_xX4em5gsbJxkHKTAo-L6ye1CXx8Axc-jSXONkGS03ntA4LyysWe5e/w320-h400/479px-Catedral_de_Puebla,_M%C3%A9xico,_2013-10-11,_DD_03.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North bell tower, facade and south tower. (Wikimedia CC)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p>The interior originally had a high altar by Pedro Garcia Ferrer. Unfortunately this was destroyed. However the six large pictures he created for the Capillo de los Reyes survive. This may be all he did in Mexico before his return to Spain to work in Toledo Cathedral. The artist Cristobal de Villalpando is responsible for the great dome also in the Capillo de los Reyes featuring the apotheosis of the Eucharist, (1688-9)and for the pendentives. This was the only painted dome in New Spain.</p><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmMp8QzBILKu32b1aWvh4WU-SbpsDhsIGLQJkcvae-JU8SJDGC3pE2IgT6Men4_f1fgUb8mOcwANfDHbiWyM5-VFyO8iQwcwcBazKMeASDCvCSLf_dgbD7RY6KJV4GbnkY73xJb03CaMxbN_Butq41tY3NIFa4rBWRt7021OMyTB1quoLvaFuesKikcqI/s800/800px-Catedral_de_Puebla,_M%C3%A9xico._C%C3%BApula_del_Altar_de_los_Reyes..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="800" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmMp8QzBILKu32b1aWvh4WU-SbpsDhsIGLQJkcvae-JU8SJDGC3pE2IgT6Men4_f1fgUb8mOcwANfDHbiWyM5-VFyO8iQwcwcBazKMeASDCvCSLf_dgbD7RY6KJV4GbnkY73xJb03CaMxbN_Butq41tY3NIFa4rBWRt7021OMyTB1quoLvaFuesKikcqI/w640-h458/800px-Catedral_de_Puebla,_M%C3%A9xico._C%C3%BApula_del_Altar_de_los_Reyes..jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dome in Capillo de los Reyes (Wikimedia CC)<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbJ7WZZX6asM42qnXOvqpaa_uZyMr0-HBKjbC76p7FlCI2J8a0RliTWSdHn6G-XXBoMrdYTxWuMMMmMKMHbpDzMhijsC0MUM9hkCVKCccMfjbcoZ_hBcUmnqoO7_dLdhezMOTpjxxIMEe-WaK37HL5Hd4DCTcSPQTgFWxEOrFD97D-HbfAI7SanHwtINR/s853/Retablo_del_Altar_de_los_Reyes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbJ7WZZX6asM42qnXOvqpaa_uZyMr0-HBKjbC76p7FlCI2J8a0RliTWSdHn6G-XXBoMrdYTxWuMMMmMKMHbpDzMhijsC0MUM9hkCVKCccMfjbcoZ_hBcUmnqoO7_dLdhezMOTpjxxIMEe-WaK37HL5Hd4DCTcSPQTgFWxEOrFD97D-HbfAI7SanHwtINR/w480-h640/Retablo_del_Altar_de_los_Reyes.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retable in Capillo de los Reyes (Wikimedia CC)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqIq9-hZKucciuEQ7LMUh53Vhn5i2D93sAY5SqPxAONEQACevkcFEFhkbonSUjeesueMqNRgHyF64xcFv0HsD0MGV2Pfmb4YIq7pz0xStSK0YyH08qUPPpOKmwAgbgl6SKk2kHuYVEQWrWK-GIaW6DwT0xQ87HLkqrkqwX6sKAawqce1Phs_pof3E3rL_/s598/305px-Planta_de_la_Catedral_de_Puebla_2.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="305" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqIq9-hZKucciuEQ7LMUh53Vhn5i2D93sAY5SqPxAONEQACevkcFEFhkbonSUjeesueMqNRgHyF64xcFv0HsD0MGV2Pfmb4YIq7pz0xStSK0YyH08qUPPpOKmwAgbgl6SKk2kHuYVEQWrWK-GIaW6DwT0xQ87HLkqrkqwX6sKAawqce1Phs_pof3E3rL_/s320/305px-Planta_de_la_Catedral_de_Puebla_2.svg.png" width="163" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>There is a choir in the nave ( 3 in plan)after entry from the Puerta del Perdon used as an oratory for the Cathedral chapter. There are 52 stalls ineo-Mudejar choir stalls of inlaid woods inside from 1719-22. There are tree organs : the first two from the early 18th century no longer speak and today we hear an instrument with electronics and keyboard from Buffal, US, pipes from Germany and wood and gold leaf from Mexico.</p><p>The sacristy contains large paintings by Baltazar de Echave of the Triumph of te Church and the Triumph of Religion.</p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-72029631959797838872023-06-23T06:53:00.000-07:002023-06-23T06:53:30.356-07:00Sao Roque, Lisbon<p> </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_fbJPBwfN-ClSo_khC541dKwCs0HcpDZsXUgz1UujQIQY403_YaG4EyJnzdyGrzsq0Ukm3oc_8EEQ6V7VgFo6gB-xTLp2yRDEDdrGVgmxAkrJSPerbtfMCJgXujhjYjMtWmn9_Rpo4VNyqPci2GDIq9vwJ0vDTxivVXuesP8Lb5PGmpJnO_CZRPiRhQ/s4032/IMG_8715.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_fbJPBwfN-ClSo_khC541dKwCs0HcpDZsXUgz1UujQIQY403_YaG4EyJnzdyGrzsq0Ukm3oc_8EEQ6V7VgFo6gB-xTLp2yRDEDdrGVgmxAkrJSPerbtfMCJgXujhjYjMtWmn9_Rpo4VNyqPci2GDIq9vwJ0vDTxivVXuesP8Lb5PGmpJnO_CZRPiRhQ/w480-h640/IMG_8715.HEIC" width="480" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>Memories from my first Lisbon visit left no ecclesiastical highlights. In the meantime I was dazzled by a special feature in the V&A Exhibition Catalogue "Baroque : style in the age of Magnificence" about a chapel in the Jesuit church of Sao Roque. This was so special because only the finest materials were used and it was designed and created in Rome, centre of the Baroque world and then re-assembled in Lisbon. It had to be seen.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUS1yMuk_OamneAyK03XG-WTyDXBSWC6DTulII2sMFJziE95C3HXgr1Bq2XfMGvjukS55d8k0dndJVnjDOSlepUrr4DNWYcFVcyGbg6XkP2n1wzlQ1KZxlNRSkunH_4HjKpWj2Jn0RG8UjUeXukdZ-YPrNW6Y0nVP2OB5Unm_pyv-6LQYHDwLPzGPkg/s4032/IMG_8708.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUS1yMuk_OamneAyK03XG-WTyDXBSWC6DTulII2sMFJziE95C3HXgr1Bq2XfMGvjukS55d8k0dndJVnjDOSlepUrr4DNWYcFVcyGbg6XkP2n1wzlQ1KZxlNRSkunH_4HjKpWj2Jn0RG8UjUeXukdZ-YPrNW6Y0nVP2OB5Unm_pyv-6LQYHDwLPzGPkg/w300-h400/IMG_8708.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the nave. The St John the Baptist chape<br /> is on the left nearest the altar</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>I have to be honest and say that there are 8 side chapels in Sao Roque of great magnificence and it takes the eye of an enthusiast or expert to pick out the famous one. It is only 17 x 12 feet and as we shall see, although the design was modified, its importance lies in its survival from the 1755 earthquake, complete with the documentation regarding its planning and creation, and the remarkable collection of liturgical furnishings, silverware, vestments of the highest quality. I must return to go in the attached museum to see this collection.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioREBeBCG4YmxCYIpWZMHU82Ld3g6BOX86bm1ZU5Q6i4QpwSbL-_23abZf5X3bYp_3FzAmh5kV6vhYfGP3c0hGjQp5refPSFDOLboWdjFf5s5yo5lIjb6OY4Ww7ZOVOtNzlFgesAKTYL4vgiF6gepigGuiO0O8pPWq_srp0GnT3-4fLbVh22bT1BRIFQ/s4032/IMG_8714.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioREBeBCG4YmxCYIpWZMHU82Ld3g6BOX86bm1ZU5Q6i4QpwSbL-_23abZf5X3bYp_3FzAmh5kV6vhYfGP3c0hGjQp5refPSFDOLboWdjFf5s5yo5lIjb6OY4Ww7ZOVOtNzlFgesAKTYL4vgiF6gepigGuiO0O8pPWq_srp0GnT3-4fLbVh22bT1BRIFQ/w300-h400/IMG_8714.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View back to entrance from St John Baptist chapel</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Sao Roque dates from the 1550s and was the first Jesuit church in the Portuguese world. It is a real preachers' auditorium church : wide, single nave, short apse, little transepts. There is a trompe l'oeil ceiling painted by Francisco Venegas 1584-6, Philip II of Spain's painter. </p><p>KIng Joao V (1706-50) is fascinating. He is the Portuguese Sun King (trying to ape Louis XIV) and lucky to be able to draw on vast income from the Portuguese empire, especially Brazil. Although very religious he treated the national income for his own spectacular building and artistic projects. He was a generous patron, a great reader and book collector. His almost megalomaniac Palace/Monastery at Mafra (the Portuguese Escorial) just has to be seen. The Jesuits convinced him he should commission a special chapel at Sao Roque in Lisbon dedicated to his patron St John the Baptist. Money no object it seems because it was to be ordered from Rome, and designed by Luigi Vanvitelli (1700-1773) using the best materials. Joao wanted to upgrade his status as a Catholic monarch. The chapel was part of the process.</p><p>The designs for the chapel by Vanvitelli did not meet the approval of the King's architect Johann Friedrich Ludovice (1673-1752) .He was the son of a goldsmith from Hall in Swabia, studied in Rome under the Jesuit Pozzo and became Catholic in 1700. In Lisbon from 1701 he became very influential and Joao's architect. The design's were not Palladian enough. Therefore arguably the finished product we see today is not the masterpiece it could have been. However the work was consecrated by Pope Benedict XIV, shipped to Lisbon in 1747. It took a year to install. Columns of Lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, agate alabaster and Siena marble form the plinths and cornice. </p><p>Joao could only have experienced it for few years. His health was never good and he died in 1750. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8E5uvNg_kbSpEeSZRRA2KON04dpDa2rikjIABb3kn2Qvk0DI4bctVJee4LIl9Qh9T2gmHU3oeRceRkP7i8s02dv38x4GTx-hPH7M-yi8leIir8n107RrkkdYqGY0MeSVhaS3US7Y7bYLOAZH-rOIks_eNKFMTGIpT6x0mb_QEZmS7KtQ_WEchEm3Cw/s4032/IMG_8719.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8E5uvNg_kbSpEeSZRRA2KON04dpDa2rikjIABb3kn2Qvk0DI4bctVJee4LIl9Qh9T2gmHU3oeRceRkP7i8s02dv38x4GTx-hPH7M-yi8leIir8n107RrkkdYqGY0MeSVhaS3US7Y7bYLOAZH-rOIks_eNKFMTGIpT6x0mb_QEZmS7KtQ_WEchEm3Cw/w480-h640/IMG_8719.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rf3Fxst9R3TocN4e2uyE9WzFHiF6A90AZo9vPQTPFFyPyChnHHnXpFWs1ICFcmjcuEGmAtTyxUVbVSZVRrHu7K1U63KqyL58pZtAPB5AoTXWBCCwAP7CMYo3Z2WoRSv-jMUjedbG3lsnkzS6trEPGH9pVUHKHNlGOiz_Kox0RTpIESgjGia48s3lRQ/s4032/IMG_8713.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rf3Fxst9R3TocN4e2uyE9WzFHiF6A90AZo9vPQTPFFyPyChnHHnXpFWs1ICFcmjcuEGmAtTyxUVbVSZVRrHu7K1U63KqyL58pZtAPB5AoTXWBCCwAP7CMYo3Z2WoRSv-jMUjedbG3lsnkzS6trEPGH9pVUHKHNlGOiz_Kox0RTpIESgjGia48s3lRQ/w480-h640/IMG_8713.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV1oqxTNbIc8QRn3J7n4Yj4Rx7DzrKeqO5fljYA-BFdnsv25zmjQkGKHhaIQGp3biFK59lkxAk6ri4F4ASF6eOHLUcHjVJKePOQwDxb9K40RxVRxXs05-WtRxbPFNnV33qj7H8RISjtpB55R_oLLAsGXyN8NFVFOnFVWOjhYG41yXcdd41obPqs-NgQ/s4032/IMG_8712.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV1oqxTNbIc8QRn3J7n4Yj4Rx7DzrKeqO5fljYA-BFdnsv25zmjQkGKHhaIQGp3biFK59lkxAk6ri4F4ASF6eOHLUcHjVJKePOQwDxb9K40RxVRxXs05-WtRxbPFNnV33qj7H8RISjtpB55R_oLLAsGXyN8NFVFOnFVWOjhYG41yXcdd41obPqs-NgQ/w480-h640/IMG_8712.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-59180182031868639362023-04-25T05:23:00.002-07:002023-04-25T05:23:27.122-07:00Santa Clara Porto<p> I am a huge fan of Sacheverill Sitwell and in his Portugal and Madeira (Batsford, 1954) I had remembered that there was a church about which even he excelled in his enthusiasm. : Santa Clara, Porto.</p><p>He wrote "One of its delights is that it is not easy to find, and when discovered is most difficult to enter". I would agree with the first part but entry is now very much part of the tourist circuit, unlike back in 1954 when he had to make four attempts at entry! Yes I agree the building externally is unremarkable and at "the first moment of entering Santa Clara fairly takes one's breath away. It is an aisleless chapel of medieval construction transformed into a golden cavern. But the transformation is not architectural. It is the art of the altar gilder and scenographer, much influenced by the theatre, or....under the influence of sacred music. This is an entirely Portuguese manifestation, having nothing to do with the Italian architects who worked in Portugal. It is a final and culminating ecstacy or delirium of the Baroque." At the time even I was getting punch drunk with the amount of gold decor. Looking back now this place had to be seen and I am glad that I took closeup photos of the woodwork to help appreciate this remarkable flowering of art.</p><p>The five altars each side behind arches covered with mollusc-like decor, the groining of the ceiling, the huge proscenium arch before the high altar and the dramatic climax of the high altar cavern itself all glittering with gold leaf. Amazing! Sitwell even compares it with a golden age Hindu temple. Neither wortds nor photos capture it. Like all great buildings the light, time of day, or hundreds of candles add different dimensions of perception.</p><p>The coro alto at the rear of the church which looks down through grilled windows adds an air of mystery. Here are the nuns' choir stalls with walls of blue and white azulejos and panels with religious paintings. The stunning golden church interior below combined with the nuns' singing must have been an overwhelming experience for the local population in the late 18th century.</p><p>I let the photos speak for themselves!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdTsCNTyt3y9EzSynWuBXjNyRRX_1Du1PcN9mjPcqGv7CD5DBPv5-QmDF3Ikdgh7wE8FzqmoxucxU4-YqBL--GDIdnmzTLROIp7BmmnceyKXSYz-JTBX_yJvK_3D06yokgQILyfNz-dih-jEhzpVselfJklYiRLY8IW_eKUXxZeAtplbNkx7HKGmDxw/s4032/IMG_8498.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdTsCNTyt3y9EzSynWuBXjNyRRX_1Du1PcN9mjPcqGv7CD5DBPv5-QmDF3Ikdgh7wE8FzqmoxucxU4-YqBL--GDIdnmzTLROIp7BmmnceyKXSYz-JTBX_yJvK_3D06yokgQILyfNz-dih-jEhzpVselfJklYiRLY8IW_eKUXxZeAtplbNkx7HKGmDxw/w480-h640/IMG_8498.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhadkzGCVEWSz-aJqHKzq3Zxr7QiI6CjP_E7YYqicspGhAzG_z0ostf0_BnY_hf73k-Ie00VbzF9P8c_wrZyCxm4loCM5j-4sjNyujMDLopN_571I33_I3HY0t0yfWzILuuw71grlvAyc2ZPqrd3j6DMSr326jS3VyHdSRMXQtWvns7yVvRpCsEOlChxg/w480-h640/IMG_8467.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBb8-ZDPijB7CO-6AwVisirjBHrdxlK5febjkwJH502HbG1q655gb-4PCN63zPkaY9MLAvdGDIz-pGIxtxGeR2RvrnNRJF70-gS_HK-ZN60xP2p1SJ8NwPYN3LT5heSI-mA2kYjCLGUjOIW7ab6mh0G-uzIP-sBRJDqQGIQRHWfBEi3AFK4teqmBvGQ/s4032/IMG_8465.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBb8-ZDPijB7CO-6AwVisirjBHrdxlK5febjkwJH502HbG1q655gb-4PCN63zPkaY9MLAvdGDIz-pGIxtxGeR2RvrnNRJF70-gS_HK-ZN60xP2p1SJ8NwPYN3LT5heSI-mA2kYjCLGUjOIW7ab6mh0G-uzIP-sBRJDqQGIQRHWfBEi3AFK4teqmBvGQ/w640-h480/IMG_8465.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wonder whose idea the lectern and priest's chair were?! Not a good idea I think!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-59488085531573090562023-04-25T05:17:00.002-07:002023-04-25T05:17:55.016-07:00Sao Francisco Porto<div class="separator"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3T4u5zyURJEy1aD3GTt7aJlZHYsbbJ0NoEchpfszSEX4zJKl4zqBu6SxWaZwcHDsXsfmFimC4j7uvHV5A178wOuQq_uvlQ52z81dODlbDsnGhwFe6rmt03Gd8a_NO0Mz0t_7yhuAXeocZuQrD2eddul5PIfkibmXNbbqAzgxIurvIo_Y5x2xBw8KTog/s4032/IMG_8367.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3T4u5zyURJEy1aD3GTt7aJlZHYsbbJ0NoEchpfszSEX4zJKl4zqBu6SxWaZwcHDsXsfmFimC4j7uvHV5A178wOuQq_uvlQ52z81dODlbDsnGhwFe6rmt03Gd8a_NO0Mz0t_7yhuAXeocZuQrD2eddul5PIfkibmXNbbqAzgxIurvIo_Y5x2xBw8KTog/w480-h640/IMG_8367.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p> </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvHbYtN6dSHTPYUIkFEPOSIU6guRKPISQXXBcJCK2CBDy2VQootcRI648TlJ5C0AfLFHxGb5xQWyfLonWUyZzW43zUSE_jW44MdBKBT4Yp2U-xQZ57mzjnm3DcmITpDVOuRyJh5ZrD9DsXDIKV7ojZ88FhYZDkilaoL5TGRKMFK7mttS9wjqPVrl1mSg/s4032/IMG_8356.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvHbYtN6dSHTPYUIkFEPOSIU6guRKPISQXXBcJCK2CBDy2VQootcRI648TlJ5C0AfLFHxGb5xQWyfLonWUyZzW43zUSE_jW44MdBKBT4Yp2U-xQZ57mzjnm3DcmITpDVOuRyJh5ZrD9DsXDIKV7ojZ88FhYZDkilaoL5TGRKMFK7mttS9wjqPVrl1mSg/s320/IMG_8356.HEIC" width="240" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>It might seem puzzling to many that Franciscan churches can be so overwhelmingly ornate, covered inside with gold, when their founder was so in favour of a life of poverty. Benedictines, Cistercians and the rest ended in the Baroque era much the same. Today we can only be stunned at the quantity quality of the art. So precious is it that it is became a National Monument in 1910 and a UNESCO World Heritage Ste in 1996. The monastery was destroyed by fire in 1832, So it's no longer a working church.</p><p> It is a 14th century building now entirely overlaid with gilded woodwork. Entering is like going into a golden cave. As you proceed down the nave the arches to each side gold covered giving sight of gold covered altars. Sitwell says "The interior of Sao Francisco..is a fantastic golden vision, a thing only to be seen in Portugal and nowhere else.... It is a Gothic building but the Baroque overlay has made it more like Romanesque. The pointed arches have been covered with round-headed canopies and pelmets of broken pediments. The effect is quite oriental almost like a pagoda. What of the artists who created these great works? Unknown, but surely joyful and past the Protestant threat, and fear of the Inquisition. They were wonderful carvers and joiners, rather than architects." In fact the carving is from several styles. The ceiling and nave arches are from the Bernini inspired first phase of Portuguese wood sculpture in the late 17th century which Robert C. Smith called the National style period . The chancel arch and frame of the high altar are Baroque of the reign of Joao V and the centre of the high altar is Rococo of 1750-85. The high altar area was closed for restoration so the full majesty of the building was not seen and I have to return! </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The most memorable feature for me was the Tree of Jesse in the north aisle by Felipe da Silva and Antonio Gomes (1718).<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"> It represents a family tree of Jesus</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"> with twelve kings of Judah </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;">connected through branches of the tree to the body of Jesse.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"> On the top of the tree is Joseph, under an image of the Virgin and the Child. The niches flanking this tree contain statues of St. Anne and St. Joachim (father and mother of Mary and four Franciscan doctors who wrote about the Immaculate conception.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Our visit began with the 18th century neo-classical Third Order of St. Francis church and the Convent Museum. It was a dull rainy day and as you can see from the photos it was dark inside the church :not ideal and we must return one day soon! I have included a lot of photos below to try to get across the intricacy of the carving and the quite extraordinary achievement of the great wood sculptors here.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuT_AEv2m2eGGEq3yYDN9pzy2o1RasLfuF4vyayM81EuKDtz09-QxNWZ0GaZA72KnF-xcpafs84jdUqzWNqgN0UhEOoJq_0dPBKPqp3riB40o1VTnMD0aLCbHQaQdFhMsfkZSSm0c-GVHr2jzhDXjSC7wbIXa-RTJ8JBlnw9c5LQptknMUp7xJDEFLw/s4032/IMG_8349.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuT_AEv2m2eGGEq3yYDN9pzy2o1RasLfuF4vyayM81EuKDtz09-QxNWZ0GaZA72KnF-xcpafs84jdUqzWNqgN0UhEOoJq_0dPBKPqp3riB40o1VTnMD0aLCbHQaQdFhMsfkZSSm0c-GVHr2jzhDXjSC7wbIXa-RTJ8JBlnw9c5LQptknMUp7xJDEFLw/w300-h400/IMG_8349.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church of the Third Order </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Pte1MRckJJn41ZpWwgwZnEGoyhNY_nGPY5phyRMq7_AMUHpdCzLRI6q4tKxqshbImSfOy4WDza5Ka2Vx3mfugYQoIF2eew8wmHb9_gVa8TeyYTHgzCF6wPPhcHtGpfG_Itrmwmnl8ZY-fCiKvOgrskDtCgWv1e2aL7RTW7T3hKI6COXWJqBhkowm5A/s4032/IMG_8348.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Pte1MRckJJn41ZpWwgwZnEGoyhNY_nGPY5phyRMq7_AMUHpdCzLRI6q4tKxqshbImSfOy4WDza5Ka2Vx3mfugYQoIF2eew8wmHb9_gVa8TeyYTHgzCF6wPPhcHtGpfG_Itrmwmnl8ZY-fCiKvOgrskDtCgWv1e2aL7RTW7T3hKI6COXWJqBhkowm5A/s320/IMG_8348.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZQxHz1NS5WrsFkKfJAgL8wV8CcbgimH8J_K7q19ipURkQ-qHq8Kpchz5CAhCv03blVGpZWoxYtxoFkNPTobZhlrLkJR6SaXKcDzBAEilNTGFONroOOB23wmP-7_bSw8QpoLfRkQwZ93vFhZyV3PRTaeDLn6hvNXu-TClIh1OwoHzaGmYO9SxicGr9A/s4032/IMG_8352.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieKQLgPux7DaFqrDZAL4BknUJpGw1zhAWKLgvZ4uBxp8_P63ittlzZHpVOezEKt9A6O22xXRCM-oTb9ntSz5Aj-ZNWFfNMchhG3R4dPmsbfSsZKFAzDb2aumjlYO2Y_zOoJapgkk2s_vB50gTabRl0uNs4ZGRdpK7wXQHMFv9JhZrzU3E8tdYlNed7pw/s320/IMG_8383.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOY-jtpzUNHAwUGktsNANJUP7uO0iI_rZQAkhABoo0XfNc3Rt1mmxMYYo-GyUnmOwokR0lKIzc8wR2b2ICwzXOxmUMzeBIt9O144_FiFJ133_SdqwkFM4M-oNlFsvtdOy33yYFVIoPY5zI_AqiqCzIGU-BxxoCOO2hkMkXSv_U5EerflpBHjy3tnD_ww/s4032/IMG_8384.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOY-jtpzUNHAwUGktsNANJUP7uO0iI_rZQAkhABoo0XfNc3Rt1mmxMYYo-GyUnmOwokR0lKIzc8wR2b2ICwzXOxmUMzeBIt9O144_FiFJ133_SdqwkFM4M-oNlFsvtdOy33yYFVIoPY5zI_AqiqCzIGU-BxxoCOO2hkMkXSv_U5EerflpBHjy3tnD_ww/w480-h640/IMG_8384.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree of Jesse</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19juuq54E9FHV2JTayqSgdLsL0oZX-O0Ei56z9VjLsfwDrS5VjhyDMFGdgJCfZDeyJGBAJFdNGxHYV0-gCR5sYYzD_c6lLTcu71n0avYwHryXzTPBv75kSvBlVPPF9wrGyjz5uEOI2oR912SkrrmgYkNJ1ynWH9D5fbFTKMw2dzwH9gAEi159OJGKsA/s4032/IMG_8385.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19juuq54E9FHV2JTayqSgdLsL0oZX-O0Ei56z9VjLsfwDrS5VjhyDMFGdgJCfZDeyJGBAJFdNGxHYV0-gCR5sYYzD_c6lLTcu71n0avYwHryXzTPBv75kSvBlVPPF9wrGyjz5uEOI2oR912SkrrmgYkNJ1ynWH9D5fbFTKMw2dzwH9gAEi159OJGKsA/w480-h640/IMG_8385.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKK-yiN1uqoCFzE4BkvSFrQEzxpLdWIMbrhixPvcK9xpkAw8nrwyMkYHkG2omviEHuESvcjqm-rnzRgWsD7EhLte3c_iAbuIG2c99xMEW1OsSr1MVISmpXDN6chVQCPrB_oXHHh9oSoC1yDfeZnUk1qserYKGah7M3Ec4DT9Bid2NidyQIaj-e3kuvw/s4032/IMG_8386.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2DSKjgbOnU4SBKOuiwv8hvn3wdxkNI9kc2p9kjhI1bR-3QE4LLjHZFuF9eIludmRtX7cdku0VH7YCQD0XOfJ7mZxySV6RiSRYPwdl09NBDySMiGdIR0O_vPebb5RyL3T9P2vKIMkOiJN7zHLvaFOwjQLHR3L8MWx73VoEJrcgMcQIDQwW3KWJibbGAw/s4032/IMG_8390.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2DSKjgbOnU4SBKOuiwv8hvn3wdxkNI9kc2p9kjhI1bR-3QE4LLjHZFuF9eIludmRtX7cdku0VH7YCQD0XOfJ7mZxySV6RiSRYPwdl09NBDySMiGdIR0O_vPebb5RyL3T9P2vKIMkOiJN7zHLvaFOwjQLHR3L8MWx73VoEJrcgMcQIDQwW3KWJibbGAw/w480-h640/IMG_8390.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-32782265903666795232023-04-25T04:04:00.002-07:002023-04-25T04:04:46.156-07:00Carmelite Churches Porto<p> </p><p>I had heard about the two churches joined together like Siamese twins with a house between them. Some have mistaken them for one church. Others have been content with the huge tiled external side wall. The usual explanation is that there were congregations of Carmelites ; male and female, and the buildings were to be separate. The gap between was filled in by a house occupied by a canon. Certainly one of the sights of Porto. My first glimpse included a peep into the left hand church (not as a tourist) on a rainy afternoon.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtg2iTSs4NaQUZFHxKpfcEg5LBxbu-SOvI-HNiI1McNUadvIg9tbh-dVhe4_nQCA3b38s1o0lmTAd-alNsZBau7T61sERlSoCHxX3cr68shPAZemPD4V4dJ9SB_vWZZ-drfxP2uVkDHv7EtZlq0LEbIlo-kxNWmBSKJ1voPrExIA_rq4h1iGP6thV5w/s4032/IMG_8280.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtg2iTSs4NaQUZFHxKpfcEg5LBxbu-SOvI-HNiI1McNUadvIg9tbh-dVhe4_nQCA3b38s1o0lmTAd-alNsZBau7T61sERlSoCHxX3cr68shPAZemPD4V4dJ9SB_vWZZ-drfxP2uVkDHv7EtZlq0LEbIlo-kxNWmBSKJ1voPrExIA_rq4h1iGP6thV5w/w640-h480/IMG_8280.HEIC" width="640" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p> For our return early one morning later in the week we were fired up to see a unique labyrinthine museum complex jampacked with art and interest for 3.50 Euros. As they say in guides "Highly recommended". I expect most tourists in Porto come in out of curiosity and maybe don't make the artistic heights of Santa Clara or Sao Francisco. For me this was why I had to come to Porto.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDAteZoXl_QCJLVOTZzY1S7WPKApWJMPC34zB1wclFbotde9JQgL3ZJaSsX6UfidOCrYRpL3kxXsQTngss6hMcOdE__aYu8UOliwzg9RDIkZPxrAD6jTFguFoHy0-L2951SmKYZvvf1zzgV6XZcP9APoKIZoo43sAt2Y-7FVrp9vQeiVcirHdqJntvjQ/s4032/IMG_8407.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDAteZoXl_QCJLVOTZzY1S7WPKApWJMPC34zB1wclFbotde9JQgL3ZJaSsX6UfidOCrYRpL3kxXsQTngss6hMcOdE__aYu8UOliwzg9RDIkZPxrAD6jTFguFoHy0-L2951SmKYZvvf1zzgV6XZcP9APoKIZoo43sAt2Y-7FVrp9vQeiVcirHdqJntvjQ/w480-h640/IMG_8407.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>The left hand church or Carmelitas was built 1619-1628 for the Carmelite nuns and externally is Classical, with window frames and a broken pediment that suggest Dutch influence. Internally it was not completed until around 1650. The convent is now occupied by the Republican National Guard. The church is very much in use, see the little video below with welcoming words from a local priest.</p><p><br /></p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/K7oOCQ0bugQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="K7oOCQ0bugQ"></iframe> </p><p><br /></p><p> On my return my first impression, pushing the entrance door leading off the narthex entry area, was confirmed : a golden vision leading to the stepped altar so popular in Portugal. These altars can have a statue at the top and at first reminded me of a wedding cake. Mea culpa! This high altar was designed by Joaquim Teixeira de Guimaraes and built by Jose Teixeira Guimaraes. This and six side chapels are resplendent with fine Baroque or Rococo carving. The interior is saved from being too dark and overpowering by the white ceiling and large windows. Alas I did not chance to hear the organ to add to this atmospheric space. The biggest surprise was in the sacristy behind the high altar. Beautiful woodwork and ceiling painting - in fact outstanding and I have been unable to find any reference to it yet. I think it is 17th century original. Sacheverell Sitwell would have loved it!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MGOQRQ9xCFs" width="320" youtube-src-id="MGOQRQ9xCFs"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This is a ten minute walk around giving some impression</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> of what it is like</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUfpCLAn8-4szaWu71H1Dw-7lZYI-magSkSWO2uzMXOmKqaY6ZruddJx6EFGqEtAMEU2T8OLPsWmd00kDgRrzdkfO6vyUmYjTeSLkHmGVfxVWZWUOIT68CtNonAuWV7wJ_WpWnRmayV_7F9CTF5RNlUI0BKsZC1KKLiC2rj2b8Q-s4eVaEs0obOtUdw/s4032/IMG_8437.HEIC" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUfpCLAn8-4szaWu71H1Dw-7lZYI-magSkSWO2uzMXOmKqaY6ZruddJx6EFGqEtAMEU2T8OLPsWmd00kDgRrzdkfO6vyUmYjTeSLkHmGVfxVWZWUOIT68CtNonAuWV7wJ_WpWnRmayV_7F9CTF5RNlUI0BKsZC1KKLiC2rj2b8Q-s4eVaEs0obOtUdw/w480-h640/IMG_8437.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stepped high altar<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDeOsoFCrsQ_mPOVItEoWabf6WdpDnLa5fTu8o_B26Na8jRzLqwReZuUVEOT5QGE8pZ5VhlSQpDAcGuIuP4mS81md9wZ5ZCHMb9w-TdWJY6D2j8f4C8m7vLcxjZ_4N4Y3WtkawlNl5yuO1UfHYM5fJYZGJpFANoduXBIV4migURgi_l0JDyjDNyavFQ/s4032/IMG_8428.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDeOsoFCrsQ_mPOVItEoWabf6WdpDnLa5fTu8o_B26Na8jRzLqwReZuUVEOT5QGE8pZ5VhlSQpDAcGuIuP4mS81md9wZ5ZCHMb9w-TdWJY6D2j8f4C8m7vLcxjZ_4N4Y3WtkawlNl5yuO1UfHYM5fJYZGJpFANoduXBIV4migURgi_l0JDyjDNyavFQ/s320/IMG_8428.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_EbylQ5wUklIq_M8tFiGD__vRURBC6ZsBq6IwrxwtQC8jWco8YSd_0bmEuFj6n_NXOaHsl871hBhRBkEYaVV30IU8mIoTEfz1YeRqzvadcnCbcJoq34s-owoPQpg-g1WPnTUfeL276t7Syv_MCTqGlD0JEAOgXx_J6SkE9X84y6mN5PCwevwFHJ_LA/s4032/IMG_8429.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_EbylQ5wUklIq_M8tFiGD__vRURBC6ZsBq6IwrxwtQC8jWco8YSd_0bmEuFj6n_NXOaHsl871hBhRBkEYaVV30IU8mIoTEfz1YeRqzvadcnCbcJoq34s-owoPQpg-g1WPnTUfeL276t7Syv_MCTqGlD0JEAOgXx_J6SkE9X84y6mN5PCwevwFHJ_LA/s320/IMG_8429.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS6G2TsYuNnhCLVapuJ3qr_7UAHW8kg32VMMfIVHTxuztdSGAtwkR-CLCTXEEjKfl5zuhivuBh5_4gsCackuuJXBiYsJgSD9wMG15TS6crEf6EGldbqtMIj_3GZzmD3KkeYc6MdXPtAw52J4c-BjPUjYyecvwoUMDcQ6i8v8RzZ_VMzVGJs4LkH13qaQ/s4032/IMG_8438.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS6G2TsYuNnhCLVapuJ3qr_7UAHW8kg32VMMfIVHTxuztdSGAtwkR-CLCTXEEjKfl5zuhivuBh5_4gsCackuuJXBiYsJgSD9wMG15TS6crEf6EGldbqtMIj_3GZzmD3KkeYc6MdXPtAw52J4c-BjPUjYyecvwoUMDcQ6i8v8RzZ_VMzVGJs4LkH13qaQ/w300-h400/IMG_8438.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recently restored organ not heard....</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kCx7KXUZfME" width="320" youtube-src-id="kCx7KXUZfME"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This video includes quick whistlestop tour including sacristy</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVlbwv44OrmujOn9nixMEFIyCBCIZoRpa1T76aQ6jQPjDkWkBEJ8CkyLtOHCC3oAC3fOO8OMyCoN0Qdf3NawVPcwvSvASxJ4QgUEpASBMjOymEPe42fKDX2sL-ySip-jWE4dHEsF_fYO0wSlgBXyjVMQUK4DlzFpfgRPAx6ahp2ClJWMwy8IBjnDRo4g/s4032/IMG_8431.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVlbwv44OrmujOn9nixMEFIyCBCIZoRpa1T76aQ6jQPjDkWkBEJ8CkyLtOHCC3oAC3fOO8OMyCoN0Qdf3NawVPcwvSvASxJ4QgUEpASBMjOymEPe42fKDX2sL-ySip-jWE4dHEsF_fYO0wSlgBXyjVMQUK4DlzFpfgRPAx6ahp2ClJWMwy8IBjnDRo4g/w640-h480/IMG_8431.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing sacristy</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMgbxAkbtaipNEFpqzQj2S_mow0aH3SRCNXTjQghUJq3EZ4_YmRJO8XAnRO8Jbuef0Sd7j3UV28kmdVix3LsnYE3TiP90Hh8_MgzxP_sqB4WEcchqEi8gtJuEEZRty49tOB59loDB23ZEru69BFFHKUpq49c5keNF5P9wlM6KZb07uqxU-DCY1kXTyQ/s4032/IMG_8436.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMgbxAkbtaipNEFpqzQj2S_mow0aH3SRCNXTjQghUJq3EZ4_YmRJO8XAnRO8Jbuef0Sd7j3UV28kmdVix3LsnYE3TiP90Hh8_MgzxP_sqB4WEcchqEi8gtJuEEZRty49tOB59loDB23ZEru69BFFHKUpq49c5keNF5P9wlM6KZb07uqxU-DCY1kXTyQ/w640-h480/IMG_8436.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The truly amazing sacristy</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p>The right hand church or Carmo is by Jose Figueiredo Seixas in Rococo style 1756-68 and built for the men of the Carmelite Third Order .Seixas was a pupil of Nicolau Nasoni, the Italian born giant of North Portuguese Baroque. There are seven guilded altars by sculptor Francisco Pereira Campanha. Again there is an overwhelming stepped high altar, this time surmounted by the Crucified Christ.</p><p>The external azulejo tiles were produced in Vila Nova de Gaia to designs by Silvestro Silvestri in 1912. The dramatic scene shows the foundation of the Carmelite order on Mount Carmel.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PeUurrr-9WD1RrMPLtzaxJsUAtkEQyWBtWNpEAmc8OwRemU9b2rXX13Gmt4tkcjR2PVJTe2GQm0PMdkdnU7Nun6egEFh5vabm4C0jZS4oCrr2pXuodcXe-Hn-X6SYGEj84NP4hp2rhLVnEiSzx88xsTBTV8FeWUNR40eLLxO6Ydb1EkqZ9QmgEPaxQ/s4032/IMG_8424.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PeUurrr-9WD1RrMPLtzaxJsUAtkEQyWBtWNpEAmc8OwRemU9b2rXX13Gmt4tkcjR2PVJTe2GQm0PMdkdnU7Nun6egEFh5vabm4C0jZS4oCrr2pXuodcXe-Hn-X6SYGEj84NP4hp2rhLVnEiSzx88xsTBTV8FeWUNR40eLLxO6Ydb1EkqZ9QmgEPaxQ/w480-h640/IMG_8424.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carmo Church exterior</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9yk_3yl3iq6kHtN98k6TgtA2Sk8T-RhQDr67tzuj1FGOZBzY0zjs6xZTA1NbS-I_PM_sVFGXfq6cY1RHuhtte7hySsz78gOWheI5KN571lTWD5IA5BdyaS551ONvPm79hvr2aNGEHqVpDGqjEGwVZew1lw4UXtHYwmj26tH0aKAkk50KyXgVIMVfFw/s4032/IMG_8406.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9yk_3yl3iq6kHtN98k6TgtA2Sk8T-RhQDr67tzuj1FGOZBzY0zjs6xZTA1NbS-I_PM_sVFGXfq6cY1RHuhtte7hySsz78gOWheI5KN571lTWD5IA5BdyaS551ONvPm79hvr2aNGEHqVpDGqjEGwVZew1lw4UXtHYwmj26tH0aKAkk50KyXgVIMVfFw/w480-h640/IMG_8406.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Azulejo tiles from 1912 showing foundation of the Carmelite Order<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUjXZJuaniYct8SqJUimFwCl5U6aJKFhaTRCZ-Go-iSBacLpfRDOQkvveMQg4QlQy48yHlAOsFR5r25zGAvpDB4hrGvks7Bnmm2NYKKCHPsKGD4hATlH-WU-2E0Z4_-J8wlCt1Nb3X3BFCWyzFB7L-ai562hIKoBSVRNZ2A70DtYKAAzA3xAmrdlTKQ/s4032/IMG_8396.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUjXZJuaniYct8SqJUimFwCl5U6aJKFhaTRCZ-Go-iSBacLpfRDOQkvveMQg4QlQy48yHlAOsFR5r25zGAvpDB4hrGvks7Bnmm2NYKKCHPsKGD4hATlH-WU-2E0Z4_-J8wlCt1Nb3X3BFCWyzFB7L-ai562hIKoBSVRNZ2A70DtYKAAzA3xAmrdlTKQ/w640-h480/IMG_8396.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Azulejo tiles from 1912 showing foundation of the Carmelite Order</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbe4b3fe9gC3GIhurfYVSJi8R8jGKTa2xwgBtOz--MSZDvLntKhJjIkZ4gyi6XcoNbuRUIiFdRGGu6kNQAqExRMb9nxBbigGJTNgJsYAQRPZ_3WlNoeLGYqElVYdKOyGfaDkNpMk2piaFUX8zpc0XCEaqdFPQOn4lRGGRlT5-KcPrF-DFnrzxKfyEhPQ/s4032/IMG_8408.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbe4b3fe9gC3GIhurfYVSJi8R8jGKTa2xwgBtOz--MSZDvLntKhJjIkZ4gyi6XcoNbuRUIiFdRGGu6kNQAqExRMb9nxBbigGJTNgJsYAQRPZ_3WlNoeLGYqElVYdKOyGfaDkNpMk2piaFUX8zpc0XCEaqdFPQOn4lRGGRlT5-KcPrF-DFnrzxKfyEhPQ/w480-h640/IMG_8408.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">General view with stepped high altar</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifr75ra9Ws6ok5C2Gd6yWNwNjSXB4pANadJ4iI01kiMG9tlI_OtZgSjX2NMfi90_-JtRnN0SSSXPp6Qumz8eUaOiNi4tyG7n3bJuvEzXJ3OYjsBjWrbxv3T5fd9SNLOVIuDrTnyB0opNfA_YFxvllg4w9WxkyRA7wyPTnVZuOYjHs88OUwhGjkv-Tf_w/s4032/IMG_8397.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifr75ra9Ws6ok5C2Gd6yWNwNjSXB4pANadJ4iI01kiMG9tlI_OtZgSjX2NMfi90_-JtRnN0SSSXPp6Qumz8eUaOiNi4tyG7n3bJuvEzXJ3OYjsBjWrbxv3T5fd9SNLOVIuDrTnyB0opNfA_YFxvllg4w9WxkyRA7wyPTnVZuOYjHs88OUwhGjkv-Tf_w/w300-h400/IMG_8397.HEIC" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jy2T1vwKZG-wxj2f09MV0SU4ilMXd49gCIBgcNUm3d42Wowk44y9WFqJdFSXtqn7UX0rY_nkktGKycjS1Qg40u4PcNcSrLb101zCCsnkZOf1BeMhp9ArRBgJbWoxbM-4m7q9kDmbLO99H_udTfClYuqJKtyF6FMemRbpfYasqEYWKKmCPBryUX3UOQ/s4032/IMG_8410.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jy2T1vwKZG-wxj2f09MV0SU4ilMXd49gCIBgcNUm3d42Wowk44y9WFqJdFSXtqn7UX0rY_nkktGKycjS1Qg40u4PcNcSrLb101zCCsnkZOf1BeMhp9ArRBgJbWoxbM-4m7q9kDmbLO99H_udTfClYuqJKtyF6FMemRbpfYasqEYWKKmCPBryUX3UOQ/w480-h640/IMG_8410.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High altar</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The unique feature of this site is the connecting house. The plan below shows the right hand or Carmon church. The tiled external wall is #10 on the plan. The house is on the left with thin little rooms which go up several storeys. See the four little photos below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYC20uRn0ZYOCblOt_09f2N6_dOedQuUJFZ4ChQw0M855ZZXnEOA-taFI9Tm026by-s8_1QF-gUJ8RzA7_v71l7-44yIucKa2yPWPgemDx2zf4UkhgaXQgSFzBv1ZMoLy8a61bCLGW9XwA12DgXegzcgkbA1Uf6_QPfzFQW35HQUaaEASROwrizJ36A/s4032/IMG_8419.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYC20uRn0ZYOCblOt_09f2N6_dOedQuUJFZ4ChQw0M855ZZXnEOA-taFI9Tm026by-s8_1QF-gUJ8RzA7_v71l7-44yIucKa2yPWPgemDx2zf4UkhgaXQgSFzBv1ZMoLy8a61bCLGW9XwA12DgXegzcgkbA1Uf6_QPfzFQW35HQUaaEASROwrizJ36A/w480-h640/IMG_8419.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBuZZ1f3a3JLW0GeTQ4hUmKvdU9ImGbIAJytYWgwlyzMZ_ebG0YENF39uxxPa6njHD947mGlSoKIiP1qKQvBNK-Lwy6Z2tex_J-G-bJy-s2k1ZasUAj4eY-0uuNx-tTVweaI69Mu7fZyGknGq6bVhtdZZLz0XNzTm0E4qbgNjCXmVwRDiGhFVM8g19rQ/s4032/IMG_8418.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBuZZ1f3a3JLW0GeTQ4hUmKvdU9ImGbIAJytYWgwlyzMZ_ebG0YENF39uxxPa6njHD947mGlSoKIiP1qKQvBNK-Lwy6Z2tex_J-G-bJy-s2k1ZasUAj4eY-0uuNx-tTVweaI69Mu7fZyGknGq6bVhtdZZLz0XNzTm0E4qbgNjCXmVwRDiGhFVM8g19rQ/s320/IMG_8418.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sL9vDEAORooNiP4mH-FNRf18oRMEQ7PJr75Sm1ZxTyallA_47SuPk9bFbhkwo9Y8oGanJYApQlmVlnSfwDJeDZkzckHckRL0Bq5qBNZNQQ058XajQpc17uSQSXeeKyM0ya21xNhC6bXUMJLSpeDp2YXpYFjXxG6Al7XuaToA6OUu1DtLG9yrAbOWaA/s4032/IMG_8417.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sL9vDEAORooNiP4mH-FNRf18oRMEQ7PJr75Sm1ZxTyallA_47SuPk9bFbhkwo9Y8oGanJYApQlmVlnSfwDJeDZkzckHckRL0Bq5qBNZNQQ058XajQpc17uSQSXeeKyM0ya21xNhC6bXUMJLSpeDp2YXpYFjXxG6Al7XuaToA6OUu1DtLG9yrAbOWaA/s320/IMG_8417.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge-v1YUKWNpn9twVat1RD0JlOfvlnbZY-Yn3zEXwp4nL1Y8flFgpQemP5BpxOscf3yoeMCUbtlgHJt2ZTpaWWDC5wcvcbUTW0MjWGhZvCFejY5vzzaHEvuqU6eo64M7HtLQ7lh-iOHt02EM3dWvm1EI34UDKODAJuNVHd2EgThn1Mm5z-_ajKRmlsBbA/s4032/IMG_8416.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge-v1YUKWNpn9twVat1RD0JlOfvlnbZY-Yn3zEXwp4nL1Y8flFgpQemP5BpxOscf3yoeMCUbtlgHJt2ZTpaWWDC5wcvcbUTW0MjWGhZvCFejY5vzzaHEvuqU6eo64M7HtLQ7lh-iOHt02EM3dWvm1EI34UDKODAJuNVHd2EgThn1Mm5z-_ajKRmlsBbA/s320/IMG_8416.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2HaTM-CcKgRlloLgulCxkE8qxzez26w7SxAjbI2hendiJ9OEaz5iyUzC3RsDaM4clfZYXZfsMuzUt2aYWeGQLoctpQRNjAlxWXjXTxE2b3LisF81KVZnq70lsOFF4-xG7kFuuxxZxUc02vSHI8ikD8NJGvj7-RbJZVjP-AVdgy6LFlCBIzgrH5k3_Hg/s4032/IMG_8415.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2HaTM-CcKgRlloLgulCxkE8qxzez26w7SxAjbI2hendiJ9OEaz5iyUzC3RsDaM4clfZYXZfsMuzUt2aYWeGQLoctpQRNjAlxWXjXTxE2b3LisF81KVZnq70lsOFF4-xG7kFuuxxZxUc02vSHI8ikD8NJGvj7-RbJZVjP-AVdgy6LFlCBIzgrH5k3_Hg/s320/IMG_8415.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>For me the most bizarre room in the gouse included an opening into the Carmo church to allow the worshipper to kiss the foot of the image.</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLkfHvpZqfDQREci9S5MWSrCKhu-s8H33M9XIlpnXZ8LLo0wk5U4FwWnidMMQGVF7lNb0wNb-NULF5-QKKPSu-TvZCByqO8CqIAjkWegg1MdfvSgk45cHRznN72HCcSoFDKi-4aQESaCOuvv_rEz-Hwp_NZO8L7_VekRDTtmeR8zmFAqkeqN7b0f6glg/s4032/IMG_8413.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLkfHvpZqfDQREci9S5MWSrCKhu-s8H33M9XIlpnXZ8LLo0wk5U4FwWnidMMQGVF7lNb0wNb-NULF5-QKKPSu-TvZCByqO8CqIAjkWegg1MdfvSgk45cHRznN72HCcSoFDKi-4aQESaCOuvv_rEz-Hwp_NZO8L7_VekRDTtmeR8zmFAqkeqN7b0f6glg/w480-h640/IMG_8413.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjh0-_II8e3BP4_h4jz_M-irjHOXHdnLmK40U3YK6ZuqSNtahizHlsFM66EWnOB2BbEj6WP67-l2uplKCh62FFMdXLbfYCZRcERDM4rH_jyxwHpD-R-PNwlRPqD6cDUZNSHecQ29y1Ro-Is2bHJ6XO1RKIMsldjHj2_CKTWZXM7FjDn7FyDQMDnxAsQ/s4032/IMG_8412.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjh0-_II8e3BP4_h4jz_M-irjHOXHdnLmK40U3YK6ZuqSNtahizHlsFM66EWnOB2BbEj6WP67-l2uplKCh62FFMdXLbfYCZRcERDM4rH_jyxwHpD-R-PNwlRPqD6cDUZNSHecQ29y1Ro-Is2bHJ6XO1RKIMsldjHj2_CKTWZXM7FjDn7FyDQMDnxAsQ/w480-h640/IMG_8412.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Finally we toured the Camelite Third Order Museum whic is behind the Carmo Church</div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYv1QZlOLFzH1yd0Jb0QpM_pL2Ju-K9C5p4ixqYzo3PNLd9UGTCjfjwzrxsXrBtH_La9tqZQvh1YxsfiQ9SDX3erYKls9qsLDWRCRp8C9-Y0Pfj3NqdMDbHopmwaA11sw3YBjptZIh-jiE4xIeKwBLzT0cMWqIxLRdbCNG0UsYoIdp4Cx3dvCthrY6Q/s4032/IMG_8425.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYv1QZlOLFzH1yd0Jb0QpM_pL2Ju-K9C5p4ixqYzo3PNLd9UGTCjfjwzrxsXrBtH_La9tqZQvh1YxsfiQ9SDX3erYKls9qsLDWRCRp8C9-Y0Pfj3NqdMDbHopmwaA11sw3YBjptZIh-jiE4xIeKwBLzT0cMWqIxLRdbCNG0UsYoIdp4Cx3dvCthrY6Q/s320/IMG_8425.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacristy of Carmo church</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVjnRuAp6K2YFVK3Hqd8bHD2VSHERdmDxk_AYO2U30I_RHM2vz804pFgX_alSAPGi1DLfwXwcPudJCYksyBn3zwS8tRn-ZJBScQCO7uiZHh47-NqoAyaIWyPdYrhzFU8V7HffaaREYcC2wqWMassKXbVNtjkp6_F5nt1j0JyY7M3aathwVr1k9u3gYQ/s4032/IMG_8426.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVjnRuAp6K2YFVK3Hqd8bHD2VSHERdmDxk_AYO2U30I_RHM2vz804pFgX_alSAPGi1DLfwXwcPudJCYksyBn3zwS8tRn-ZJBScQCO7uiZHh47-NqoAyaIWyPdYrhzFU8V7HffaaREYcC2wqWMassKXbVNtjkp6_F5nt1j0JyY7M3aathwVr1k9u3gYQ/s320/IMG_8426.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib3FVHBxGpZQc2aPUXYtFLXcr6zPmGGgB5kahevt8F4t8p6xCeeLiabTvYmrbg-1rmWUAZNla4bVKzUTtYXZz-MpjqHBmbiW5UGwCuam1swicMLuDHSU9c4n9N7dhaq7ObJaY94pcUB1ID1U3L454BhDrYQ40FVyZ_JgjKhy7z46SQTGU89VSerCeG0Q/s4032/IMG_8422.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib3FVHBxGpZQc2aPUXYtFLXcr6zPmGGgB5kahevt8F4t8p6xCeeLiabTvYmrbg-1rmWUAZNla4bVKzUTtYXZz-MpjqHBmbiW5UGwCuam1swicMLuDHSU9c4n9N7dhaq7ObJaY94pcUB1ID1U3L454BhDrYQ40FVyZ_JgjKhy7z46SQTGU89VSerCeG0Q/s320/IMG_8422.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full dress of a Carmelite</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsaHn8l2bvF3vaWCxdsL3RN1fBeXyjR0Ws7RDzTsmb6rm4zU2od6pEcbfZaaRkvBKlcRlpq9Z8vJ5GdMiI1dfUsgsI2raj1B7yKYwnoEshSzJA58zyR8Hrz8PM32U-CbJrOCmMh3mEl0sXva6_e-tqI2LIpSuqZ3n1yAEEEjsCRLOPxDioXq165OsvSQ/s4032/IMG_8421.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsaHn8l2bvF3vaWCxdsL3RN1fBeXyjR0Ws7RDzTsmb6rm4zU2od6pEcbfZaaRkvBKlcRlpq9Z8vJ5GdMiI1dfUsgsI2raj1B7yKYwnoEshSzJA58zyR8Hrz8PM32U-CbJrOCmMh3mEl0sXva6_e-tqI2LIpSuqZ3n1yAEEEjsCRLOPxDioXq165OsvSQ/s320/IMG_8421.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conference room</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-26176060945222990522023-03-29T01:39:00.001-07:002023-03-29T01:39:40.456-07:00San Lorenzo, Porto or Igreja dos Grilos <p> </p><p>Porto is an extraordinary place : for a Lincolnshire man from the Fens even more so : it is so HILLY : steps and crazy gradients everywhere. The compensating views, culinary delights and port wine more than compensate. After several days of viewing I could not understand which particularly large church kept protruding near our AirBNB cave in an old street near the Cathedral, or HOW to get there! An early morning excursion led me to the old Jesuit church or Grilos - now the Museum of Sacred Art and Archeaology. </p><p>When the Jesuits came to Porto in mid 16th century they were far from popular with the locals or the authorities. They started out in Rua do Grilo (Cricket Street) [crickets are bugs]and this seemed to fit with their black tunics so the nickname Igreja dos Grilos remains...</p><p>The free classes they gave bought them some support and donations, plus that given by Frei Luis Alvaro de Tavora. Therefore a church was started in 1577 and work went on up to the 18th century. After the Jesuits had been thrown out by Pombal in 1759 Augustinians took it over, and later it became a military barracks. It isn't really Baroque but for the interior and its contents I couldn't resist including it here. Alas no sound from the organ but it is used for concerts and recordings see below for a little video.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzE5qJd4v9QzSEiRH72hbi58EjY3MM8lKHXAfvsEmj38jlcGqXygL5CnQH7YxT-4jvmRGwthEWFrjYhBEZyVl1I_tp2F8gd72FA5bo3WcX-8AymNi6HXVWTfQIacfolv-S7UwfCRCp4_viWL0UuGK7OpnK3bGV_08Sw98aFkSTH6dcr7Sj6A8pPHMVA/s4032/IMG_8346.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzE5qJd4v9QzSEiRH72hbi58EjY3MM8lKHXAfvsEmj38jlcGqXygL5CnQH7YxT-4jvmRGwthEWFrjYhBEZyVl1I_tp2F8gd72FA5bo3WcX-8AymNi6HXVWTfQIacfolv-S7UwfCRCp4_viWL0UuGK7OpnK3bGV_08Sw98aFkSTH6dcr7Sj6A8pPHMVA/w640-h480/IMG_8346.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down te nave from the organ loft</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lSSEGPYdnZqi8d3muCw5JBeC4Kxasb7ykDb_okLTwPotxKag7x5ap_OGmZ_UYSzC9nFmRMP5phryWicdVwgw0EXRRraiNgkqLh8Pu2RTFHw0-EqVsGkQkDb6TqChbm2466fnBbtQ2PiBoKoYRYqeVOytpo67q6ez8f-oGUrjZMhLco_SAnsg9qY7OQ/s4032/IMG_8345.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lSSEGPYdnZqi8d3muCw5JBeC4Kxasb7ykDb_okLTwPotxKag7x5ap_OGmZ_UYSzC9nFmRMP5phryWicdVwgw0EXRRraiNgkqLh8Pu2RTFHw0-EqVsGkQkDb6TqChbm2466fnBbtQ2PiBoKoYRYqeVOytpo67q6ez8f-oGUrjZMhLco_SAnsg9qY7OQ/s320/IMG_8345.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA375XBa4MfxbEUEG5bf20KNq4XGw8JfsO6941Y8RWA3Gr6lhrZvAXU0HP7k_lhbeT4srR9bNI3phxEJeYo_5ZedkAoQVIxKh7qoURe-Usvz0PozB-z7909WD7-mgbXrpd4GROUP3K0lt4W14li2qhIr1ftVuEFuZwacKH2IfAsVmXeAZYcuqzcxfIA/s4032/IMG_8334.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA375XBa4MfxbEUEG5bf20KNq4XGw8JfsO6941Y8RWA3Gr6lhrZvAXU0HP7k_lhbeT4srR9bNI3phxEJeYo_5ZedkAoQVIxKh7qoURe-Usvz0PozB-z7909WD7-mgbXrpd4GROUP3K0lt4W14li2qhIr1ftVuEFuZwacKH2IfAsVmXeAZYcuqzcxfIA/s320/IMG_8334.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ornate altar with typical Portuguese pelmet at the top. Passage through the side chapels</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lvEwLI9Mc_IYYw0HQU67SVA88GnsyR-Drur_i0yGAjdE5KWCEQ8SVa0z2ht6whxml1hyFokDFKSDgHp9TadtaZs65ZYW23en3vBaApfA_ifqm8-r-4CEz_5qdcBtihf0Io6MJKjDnsfzKy_2WKdwrZitoYU3IcHsdtgDhiWNkC2YoTsFqeU-zgxmJg/s4032/IMG_8335.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lvEwLI9Mc_IYYw0HQU67SVA88GnsyR-Drur_i0yGAjdE5KWCEQ8SVa0z2ht6whxml1hyFokDFKSDgHp9TadtaZs65ZYW23en3vBaApfA_ifqm8-r-4CEz_5qdcBtihf0Io6MJKjDnsfzKy_2WKdwrZitoYU3IcHsdtgDhiWNkC2YoTsFqeU-zgxmJg/s320/IMG_8335.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Azt7vd-iwd-9Y66aHl2_6HxhagodeKeUrGK_eZG_LYM0dqb1taogSp2AlKL510hSIy_HZLZ0WFhdHpcoOD5Rh_7RTPSJMiEnekXJ2I7EqkLKI0Jr_Ya-S4tpsxi6c7yuHh3uoF2xBx7fOWJi5EjKjf8PzKwX0PMOqjuBasATxdThG-3b_chsDbE1ag/s4032/IMG_8336.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Azt7vd-iwd-9Y66aHl2_6HxhagodeKeUrGK_eZG_LYM0dqb1taogSp2AlKL510hSIy_HZLZ0WFhdHpcoOD5Rh_7RTPSJMiEnekXJ2I7EqkLKI0Jr_Ya-S4tpsxi6c7yuHh3uoF2xBx7fOWJi5EjKjf8PzKwX0PMOqjuBasATxdThG-3b_chsDbE1ag/s320/IMG_8336.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqzi4CegcNX5amOG5m7szv65NGD8gV54R2uUm2RtjF-SAiQgzgNq0b116eFryp3hJj_InjWox0J8HWn_-SwRx-_zZuiLAemJJOMuV8sWCiKzHYqOKFmotBNAGs2nAuli-u8ybFijlo7SZvEObW_iBmNoYfdNUAOd-0VuFl0BIApgM_WHtPuGtTjiMWA/s4032/IMG_8347.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqzi4CegcNX5amOG5m7szv65NGD8gV54R2uUm2RtjF-SAiQgzgNq0b116eFryp3hJj_InjWox0J8HWn_-SwRx-_zZuiLAemJJOMuV8sWCiKzHYqOKFmotBNAGs2nAuli-u8ybFijlo7SZvEObW_iBmNoYfdNUAOd-0VuFl0BIApgM_WHtPuGtTjiMWA/s320/IMG_8347.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YGk4WJFVp6qj7S699RKn1TFNlvZWYJDpjPBHQWxV7_Kefm_ExhPECtOEAOhuY2pQqqRVKEKzn1KxFkrNiuqSdg--FzfoxsxaSwP4axyNOnTzOUM0ZqLKzGU9bYF9Ph-YpAwQkOdHDHQIzuPWR1d3_0JrViBiwIAlUjERiOBPjUEzZp-1PFifBKZHmg/s4032/IMG_8344.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YGk4WJFVp6qj7S699RKn1TFNlvZWYJDpjPBHQWxV7_Kefm_ExhPECtOEAOhuY2pQqqRVKEKzn1KxFkrNiuqSdg--FzfoxsxaSwP4axyNOnTzOUM0ZqLKzGU9bYF9Ph-YpAwQkOdHDHQIzuPWR1d3_0JrViBiwIAlUjERiOBPjUEzZp-1PFifBKZHmg/s320/IMG_8344.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br />The impressive organ</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4-GK1PCsd3UR5NeEk99HUUd1nUGTDYpN5GHAtvCqkGcWC_D6-_YxcG1hDqLls2dzo3Sc0u_d-myVRDexwlXefDWbdSxHpxvO2SBkDo91WV9o1HeE61zdWCxrjeJ-4J7xO177qPYwQMTYE3BHMwCFq82MK5lPDMnzG9JgzqyiIH6z3dhGlguLkO-lCQ/s4032/IMG_8332.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4-GK1PCsd3UR5NeEk99HUUd1nUGTDYpN5GHAtvCqkGcWC_D6-_YxcG1hDqLls2dzo3Sc0u_d-myVRDexwlXefDWbdSxHpxvO2SBkDo91WV9o1HeE61zdWCxrjeJ-4J7xO177qPYwQMTYE3BHMwCFq82MK5lPDMnzG9JgzqyiIH6z3dhGlguLkO-lCQ/w480-h640/IMG_8332.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div> <div> Best view of the organ. Note the horizonal chamade pipes and hear them in the video below,</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nYbfg65R-uU" width="320" youtube-src-id="nYbfg65R-uU"></iframe></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cTSUkbb0iNkBaT02y7ZkfH8N2ih0gEhKlHcbnUJgxCgd5kNoT01F_vCWTmNkLcLWcD0LlDPHnOxzgWu2zgPOAmR5c-1PtiLwLJxyJZHw0kFg4gSq7QKwJPFZMk6kz80wn3XxXUYnUX9i9pAS0vNM3Hy-eGV2EZjYenZnrIf4NlEWXDM4OYuMyVHrjw/s4032/IMG_8338.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cTSUkbb0iNkBaT02y7ZkfH8N2ih0gEhKlHcbnUJgxCgd5kNoT01F_vCWTmNkLcLWcD0LlDPHnOxzgWu2zgPOAmR5c-1PtiLwLJxyJZHw0kFg4gSq7QKwJPFZMk6kz80wn3XxXUYnUX9i9pAS0vNM3Hy-eGV2EZjYenZnrIf4NlEWXDM4OYuMyVHrjw/w400-h300/IMG_8338.HEIC" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sacristy chests</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH1V1d8s_IOXQt4aMCo4NFbxGnKK-xpEFzCGGtOcA-Me3M0woP2L1PMEBET-CwVgYG0yRiRxZU2_UEG_stlrPTfM5lWfTA4PhWVZXoNbHQdofrVUDgpBHr9_tP9fuxg0BR9TYyfncXUjhVAG1ygGe_F6Ih2PWNxQz-jgFfxRFebdf_TbFrC0UaTyNXKg/s4032/IMG_8342.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH1V1d8s_IOXQt4aMCo4NFbxGnKK-xpEFzCGGtOcA-Me3M0woP2L1PMEBET-CwVgYG0yRiRxZU2_UEG_stlrPTfM5lWfTA4PhWVZXoNbHQdofrVUDgpBHr9_tP9fuxg0BR9TYyfncXUjhVAG1ygGe_F6Ih2PWNxQz-jgFfxRFebdf_TbFrC0UaTyNXKg/s320/IMG_8342.HEIC" width="320" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgop3bgXlliqPUfCJElDxPQFCR9PIXCPa2WhS_vrxLA4BwIHwsLmr7EmqeDdhyA5VAkdygAfzMBwNym4x_LFyGI7srSgWKJtRyQAoMOYfpowJXm2f-_0LAOcO2xfQSTW38rcQiPNBGPBghhex3MNOP-WAW20GOeWZcbYGVHG3BCnMMv145s-FX051Caaw/s4032/IMG_8339.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgop3bgXlliqPUfCJElDxPQFCR9PIXCPa2WhS_vrxLA4BwIHwsLmr7EmqeDdhyA5VAkdygAfzMBwNym4x_LFyGI7srSgWKJtRyQAoMOYfpowJXm2f-_0LAOcO2xfQSTW38rcQiPNBGPBghhex3MNOP-WAW20GOeWZcbYGVHG3BCnMMv145s-FX051Caaw/s320/IMG_8339.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the beautiful azulejos and woodwork</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p></div></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-88670751021016605612023-01-30T07:36:00.003-08:002023-01-30T07:36:57.380-08:00Clerigos Church Porto<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCnlZRJDUMeG7CM3gB4y1ban-H2bW5AzLnOTEC2E3qRu8V1t3Yqr9llGtsR8PbuIYM4zpTWHKX8J_hvMUCwUWPxWvtiTBI--M1szSrcNtQYFJvL7f2Wjrn-OCupyt9zHmNv7qTC17bgLEWQd407_WNzmz7xFPlaPd8wM4zYY75nCaKrecL9NkL_SjDgw/s4032/IMG_8235.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCnlZRJDUMeG7CM3gB4y1ban-H2bW5AzLnOTEC2E3qRu8V1t3Yqr9llGtsR8PbuIYM4zpTWHKX8J_hvMUCwUWPxWvtiTBI--M1szSrcNtQYFJvL7f2Wjrn-OCupyt9zHmNv7qTC17bgLEWQd407_WNzmz7xFPlaPd8wM4zYY75nCaKrecL9NkL_SjDgw/w480-h640/IMG_8235.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGnO5ReyowWDmD1n9GIpgKGQeHjUgvbTYT8yQG_B_ug-rkG92HpRUovDG5jx-Jo4r_NC2nPffuK0B6IFUoAinnlQDJwWAMnXR_MdHxNYiTVFJ8fcsofhPJ6SvBIF3bjlcyK8hVmClOEoGYALhIUn3juYK7q1wtjv7_AQzdEG3bMmZgs3o8WtD0T9Zow/s4032/IMG_8403.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGnO5ReyowWDmD1n9GIpgKGQeHjUgvbTYT8yQG_B_ug-rkG92HpRUovDG5jx-Jo4r_NC2nPffuK0B6IFUoAinnlQDJwWAMnXR_MdHxNYiTVFJ8fcsofhPJ6SvBIF3bjlcyK8hVmClOEoGYALhIUn3juYK7q1wtjv7_AQzdEG3bMmZgs3o8WtD0T9Zow/s320/IMG_8403.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7dI2MXLN9WCgtFIvdnE-T6E_sxgjbA1e6jZOBfeTXeTCbR9VSyasehfWTY3Np0lPJGbdBrjOrZ5b8u0wZVjmmHvzJZwFTLHVwJ-xsXUg9TBXUHPOGt9Se8nCJogGV1jMUb8aFV851m6CxTbwBfA6vC6InJElAOHUI-Ff0Mxtyq5U9orlpV4tiVtPHg/s4032/IMG_8452.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7dI2MXLN9WCgtFIvdnE-T6E_sxgjbA1e6jZOBfeTXeTCbR9VSyasehfWTY3Np0lPJGbdBrjOrZ5b8u0wZVjmmHvzJZwFTLHVwJ-xsXUg9TBXUHPOGt9Se8nCJogGV1jMUb8aFV851m6CxTbwBfA6vC6InJElAOHUI-Ff0Mxtyq5U9orlpV4tiVtPHg/s320/IMG_8452.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Before going to Porto I remember reading somewhere in a guide that the Clerigos tower was the symbol and centre of the city; and incidentally, attached to a church. Therefore I had no great expectations about the church when I did a quick reconnoitre the first day. It was a shock : a true oval Baroque church that could have been in Italy or Germany. I loved it straight away and over the week my admiration of the exterior (and the tower) grew and grew. It would make a great paper model!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">(I am a great paper modeller : I have done Melk, Dresden Frauenkirche for example). I thought I had discovered an unknown master architect. I have always liked to champion the underdog. I am glad that I had not done more research before I got to Porto because my appreciation of Clerigos has been genuinely derived from my own observation and not from just following conventional wisdom. I now know that Nasoni built churches and houses all over North Portugal and is highly regarded. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">This is a remarkable building architecturally with a deep spiritual presence. It is the church in Porto that I would visit first if I am fortunate enough to ever return to this unique city.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALu-KEszBHF9Pf4U8n_Eult33UuGwi0fZ6gX2jlzzZr8yEdixclSB7NmP5Mn7ql9A-ajSZjJBlatOq1tnMW0_-VtXbA6cWUbwtqvWe-XmuurhJ7P1kZeXHoUgtcDDPrzrzhn-tlKYJMiJGG0z0Wesd6VpPp5TMrjtgMBJFGh7CGf7H97UG1PM5zHfCQ/s4032/IMG_8227.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALu-KEszBHF9Pf4U8n_Eult33UuGwi0fZ6gX2jlzzZr8yEdixclSB7NmP5Mn7ql9A-ajSZjJBlatOq1tnMW0_-VtXbA6cWUbwtqvWe-XmuurhJ7P1kZeXHoUgtcDDPrzrzhn-tlKYJMiJGG0z0Wesd6VpPp5TMrjtgMBJFGh7CGf7H97UG1PM5zHfCQ/s320/IMG_8227.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZYXVw6DsLvPUVYvkXczSY02AVG0oQ6rQ2hwXVXnaUuZG3OKv0BD9iW47lW-plr4WEvIHigYExFeFuvEHsy8VoP9jU1m2og3XhRCQy31TjNTYwLjWPsDwQ-EfPZbZFrHlRygSJDXMlW223iNhKuYM_DL39K42Zww4tLSPV5T19_MW6qTq2XUHS2Vdbg/s4032/IMG_8228.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZYXVw6DsLvPUVYvkXczSY02AVG0oQ6rQ2hwXVXnaUuZG3OKv0BD9iW47lW-plr4WEvIHigYExFeFuvEHsy8VoP9jU1m2og3XhRCQy31TjNTYwLjWPsDwQ-EfPZbZFrHlRygSJDXMlW223iNhKuYM_DL39K42Zww4tLSPV5T19_MW6qTq2XUHS2Vdbg/s320/IMG_8228.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Nicolau Nasoni (1691-1773) was from San Giovanni Valdarno in Tuscany, trained as an architect and ceiling painter in Siena and then worked in Malta. He was invited to work in Porto in 1725 and lived here for the rest of his life. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Clerigos Brotherhood was made up from members of the Brotherhood of the Poor Clerics of Our Lady of Mercy, St. Peter in Vincula and St Philip Neri. They formed in 1707 and were officially approved in 1710. In 1731 they were given land outside the city walls, near an important gate, to build a church. It was decided by lot to dedicate it to Our Lady of the Assumption. At that time the Brotherhood was led by the Dean of the Cathedral D. Jeronimo de Tavora de Noronha Lele e Cernache, and he chose Nasoni to design the church. It was his first church and construction began in 1732 directed by Antonio Pereira,. Unfortunately rivalry grew up with the Parish Priest of San Ildefonso which was being built at the same time on a neighbouring hill and work on the Clerigos church slowed down. The Brotherhood replaced Pereira by Miguel Francisco da Silva, a friend of Nasoni and progress resumed apace. The two churches offer an interesting contrast : San Ildefonso (1730-7) is a sterner Counter Reformation church and Clerigos is real Baroque.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">It seems that Nasoni took a real personal interest in the church and worked for nothing. In 1743 he applied to be a lay brother of the Brotherhood. Work continued on the church until 1750.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The tall western facade is prefaced by a double staircase and the campanile is at the opposite western end at the top of the hill. The two are connected by the oval nave, rectangular sanctuary and clergy house church all of continuous white walls, trimmed with granite, with a ground plan like a hairpin. This was the first oval church in Portugal. The facade has some similarities to Carlo Rainaldi's facade at Santa Maria de Campitelli in Rome : e.g.the indented pediment. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwlThAj4NIxjiZKuC9V9pRxvUDKTrtR6hzUw6A84aJXNH6wt7yxfb3MQTs4MQUVY5gYA40jo5-Fqa1V7iNKCO6980BvbZjjxU1s6OdU3WMPRowZsm3fs0k0Lv9jHe2K--nX31ErHSBOE_7FzzM5FoN9MDi3dJHdqtAu53QTJkJE7-jUV622joC4vO8w/s4032/IMG_8229.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwlThAj4NIxjiZKuC9V9pRxvUDKTrtR6hzUw6A84aJXNH6wt7yxfb3MQTs4MQUVY5gYA40jo5-Fqa1V7iNKCO6980BvbZjjxU1s6OdU3WMPRowZsm3fs0k0Lv9jHe2K--nX31ErHSBOE_7FzzM5FoN9MDi3dJHdqtAu53QTJkJE7-jUV622joC4vO8w/s320/IMG_8229.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMdn-RNj1rJ_RHQdqK4LEH__xwl0dO7bsGkG5xa_wbruwBJ7bkAtKJvtT3T0aAq0gU3kqF_3SnTXEPRr_oLlR4OjkU1Sr9rLPONZbsIGh94KNocxymuDSda8AOyXqi5NXze3Q2svWRWPj8vg2DBuVViEPE487JEA8EfNUIuLVAyOc6nHkR9MtPFd34g/s4032/IMG_8231.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMdn-RNj1rJ_RHQdqK4LEH__xwl0dO7bsGkG5xa_wbruwBJ7bkAtKJvtT3T0aAq0gU3kqF_3SnTXEPRr_oLlR4OjkU1Sr9rLPONZbsIGh94KNocxymuDSda8AOyXqi5NXze3Q2svWRWPj8vg2DBuVViEPE487JEA8EfNUIuLVAyOc6nHkR9MtPFd34g/s320/IMG_8231.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_UoD2SsAv5PSKcFdfRG3WZCbwdCEmoufiZCpijZy5xumsiFjQiBEu79M2Qowke0YkBF8kFtu1f8jbDMaz9Z3nkYRXTLU7RCFYQTucdwP3QkXwH1EeMkSp-qphooKJYbkyYuNk2jGHW1yJpp4MX98Kpf0QtIDKilxgSWFVQMIdJ66ke0dK6HOGTPN5AA/s4032/IMG_8230.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_UoD2SsAv5PSKcFdfRG3WZCbwdCEmoufiZCpijZy5xumsiFjQiBEu79M2Qowke0YkBF8kFtu1f8jbDMaz9Z3nkYRXTLU7RCFYQTucdwP3QkXwH1EeMkSp-qphooKJYbkyYuNk2jGHW1yJpp4MX98Kpf0QtIDKilxgSWFVQMIdJ66ke0dK6HOGTPN5AA/s320/IMG_8230.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV3t-UaDpqXgNFaisSYBZx-P3Mf1a5-apTgNifEfjOR5QD-bjRUx6czAvhsf9PPv4Rk9rJqupTZJDgIUb2af4xT4XLADHchQ6HGSqCy5duuNtrxpgEOL5xZ_4ctQpJuptkJYvBgta6NJKwCE3EnKgZHf5Qj-kL21hujURxvyUg1ZGn9fQt7_6adG0iA/s4032/IMG_8456.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV3t-UaDpqXgNFaisSYBZx-P3Mf1a5-apTgNifEfjOR5QD-bjRUx6czAvhsf9PPv4Rk9rJqupTZJDgIUb2af4xT4XLADHchQ6HGSqCy5duuNtrxpgEOL5xZ_4ctQpJuptkJYvBgta6NJKwCE3EnKgZHf5Qj-kL21hujURxvyUg1ZGn9fQt7_6adG0iA/s320/IMG_8456.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The sloping site meant many challenges and these are apparent today as a tourist .</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Entry into the church reveals a vestibule with apsed ends, an oval nave and apsed sanctuary. The effect is grand and of noble height. Over the entry into the sanctuary is a golden pelmet rising back into the dome.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2g4Q21uDXxqUA6ulKfJCEi3fdv4bVbbmHssdZQn8HADaOhILKKkQYIoaaCmGl53EKzc7jtR0EKj3Bx1PmXsTJtRvOryCP-VGquE96_GDcpqBBHZ1C-FkvCVmgCpn9l20ucIIyThP_q7_EUEy4mDjKSuHXaPJ-XOQMFu3HZ6sqxyRmJYH3Ya56gAefyQ/s4032/IMG_8445.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2g4Q21uDXxqUA6ulKfJCEi3fdv4bVbbmHssdZQn8HADaOhILKKkQYIoaaCmGl53EKzc7jtR0EKj3Bx1PmXsTJtRvOryCP-VGquE96_GDcpqBBHZ1C-FkvCVmgCpn9l20ucIIyThP_q7_EUEy4mDjKSuHXaPJ-XOQMFu3HZ6sqxyRmJYH3Ya56gAefyQ/s320/IMG_8445.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIvmFjGs2XDn9DfbDbQpAChQi7mfYdaW0MKJvoS6sXwEn5YD7mklTCyvZGtpVZc6lGzBR29Yhzikz0tSJZC4YGbpWgDhYE7h2ua9S6VC_3rEaQH-gsmZzbf9TE5JSzRBzDdqLdOSfStqf-uTQXz4qznjAUchSdAEZpzG9RmoB3gzDASPXvvfXpTMphxg/s4032/IMG_8444.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIvmFjGs2XDn9DfbDbQpAChQi7mfYdaW0MKJvoS6sXwEn5YD7mklTCyvZGtpVZc6lGzBR29Yhzikz0tSJZC4YGbpWgDhYE7h2ua9S6VC_3rEaQH-gsmZzbf9TE5JSzRBzDdqLdOSfStqf-uTQXz4qznjAUchSdAEZpzG9RmoB3gzDASPXvvfXpTMphxg/s320/IMG_8444.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahZAj5y7C2Q_9LMmrULBePp-cPkt7Orkj4MRh6-DBRXqMFN2cB1Y6r1j7Dhc4CZ4OLY93DBceqt4bIKr6LduVaGL8Ls880bE6f5Oj2ikp8fUotteVK6_HoCS1iRLDyv-7ywCUxpKR-SdZJl-ICAe3Gd8n36v5Mz2SOliCOSDN6o3uvdhGaju2_DLZTQ/s4032/IMG_8455.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahZAj5y7C2Q_9LMmrULBePp-cPkt7Orkj4MRh6-DBRXqMFN2cB1Y6r1j7Dhc4CZ4OLY93DBceqt4bIKr6LduVaGL8Ls880bE6f5Oj2ikp8fUotteVK6_HoCS1iRLDyv-7ywCUxpKR-SdZJl-ICAe3Gd8n36v5Mz2SOliCOSDN6o3uvdhGaju2_DLZTQ/s320/IMG_8455.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1brD0-Dcrv9J7fhMbaFxf7fyVxMqeVPUFBeGSJkDoCTFt6j6bCoSNjh_tYnH-NBrlgRV4axaiVLrS-WsXhF9HzX8x5TdcpVQ8Rk58L6fjP0aghlM09ktGNNCksAcz11UC7tq_FUBAN_CX63bD68C74lGRQyuFXI_93ZANLZmRTIcmbRQN5Bfmu_ruA/s4032/IMG_8262.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1brD0-Dcrv9J7fhMbaFxf7fyVxMqeVPUFBeGSJkDoCTFt6j6bCoSNjh_tYnH-NBrlgRV4axaiVLrS-WsXhF9HzX8x5TdcpVQ8Rk58L6fjP0aghlM09ktGNNCksAcz11UC7tq_FUBAN_CX63bD68C74lGRQyuFXI_93ZANLZmRTIcmbRQN5Bfmu_ruA/s320/IMG_8262.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"> The choir stalls are of rosewood in Louis XV Rococo style. The magnificent twin organs with cases of carved and guilded jacaranda wood were likely installed in 1748-9 and have been restored 2012-4. Alas I did not hear them, let alone play one. . The wooden altars are original and Rococo. The magnificent Rococo high altar is by master stonemason and architect Manuel de Santos Porto using marble in four colours from Pero Pinheiro, near Lisbon. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwS5suZxPEgkoN2fegggyKrg7d_bBT8Gt-PSJAEl5n5AYJz8gpSswQr0sPu_evm1Mf7SMmqbcgd1jcdTS6scdG0NUHAZExTU9zZBJIF-GKhq0pFlFNd9ZgtB9J63bGMj6FLFZftGBV_demyaXaPive6rFzoVTnkOLY7iXPhtT6_unrYNYBG82W_SV1ew/s4032/IMG_8457.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwS5suZxPEgkoN2fegggyKrg7d_bBT8Gt-PSJAEl5n5AYJz8gpSswQr0sPu_evm1Mf7SMmqbcgd1jcdTS6scdG0NUHAZExTU9zZBJIF-GKhq0pFlFNd9ZgtB9J63bGMj6FLFZftGBV_demyaXaPive6rFzoVTnkOLY7iXPhtT6_unrYNYBG82W_SV1ew/s320/IMG_8457.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5jGP85hcWrYDLIgognQxo5k4jJI4lDQLVD49A_uFYvuR8gDy2etpSenAhdBARp397NUU3Oe8fM34xxVvo2La8KqfBIz39WUJIPeSh6MsTDbSDNNoucKw2zd1N7CngXKodEaGzh8DcAkokjX2unrQNHr4UQDbDI7mf3fAYllphytMupMaW0B6kgV7Lg/s4032/IMG_8443.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5jGP85hcWrYDLIgognQxo5k4jJI4lDQLVD49A_uFYvuR8gDy2etpSenAhdBARp397NUU3Oe8fM34xxVvo2La8KqfBIz39WUJIPeSh6MsTDbSDNNoucKw2zd1N7CngXKodEaGzh8DcAkokjX2unrQNHr4UQDbDI7mf3fAYllphytMupMaW0B6kgV7Lg/s320/IMG_8443.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-G9ZmfN8oXQcZhq9E6NGsyXVkctm7bqdVE8HfYWjTlUJx1x6dfAfF16slJQcDSPFziAStuZS1Wp_zQDv9ahgJNvDDGmJMWt_T3mQFtcAbemBhAw2HSoCUfj5BNvhioU77dqB1fMCHNhCWWrw3en1efx3ENVEkORC0r3VE8sKrxE3bz4nRlhSKYA4fQ/s4032/IMG_8446.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-G9ZmfN8oXQcZhq9E6NGsyXVkctm7bqdVE8HfYWjTlUJx1x6dfAfF16slJQcDSPFziAStuZS1Wp_zQDv9ahgJNvDDGmJMWt_T3mQFtcAbemBhAw2HSoCUfj5BNvhioU77dqB1fMCHNhCWWrw3en1efx3ENVEkORC0r3VE8sKrxE3bz4nRlhSKYA4fQ/s320/IMG_8446.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThhVc1oUpmK7qo0kHPHWraYM397449pngRZyE0JHArVxsqGkKrP1JLN_M--vrYua2kKi47oPEOqt45dwPB-TpiQ1Jb4gckSEcJ6GK0No_9kaMHskALl0N99IKjzPQG2OLPjhK2LU6Tl5Pq9JomNIAhjNy8Gzh7L9G5vNnmKZaTUotc1y9ka52EBr7tA/s4032/IMG_8233.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThhVc1oUpmK7qo0kHPHWraYM397449pngRZyE0JHArVxsqGkKrP1JLN_M--vrYua2kKi47oPEOqt45dwPB-TpiQ1Jb4gckSEcJ6GK0No_9kaMHskALl0N99IKjzPQG2OLPjhK2LU6Tl5Pq9JomNIAhjNy8Gzh7L9G5vNnmKZaTUotc1y9ka52EBr7tA/s320/IMG_8233.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDSLdAxAh0s4J0nn86GyNb1lpfXayHkC78-n4xklJriOE28mdGLX4HQNSgjKjketVlJZOTbBtLzoHYtdoDAhTtVN93l1Q1JsOLKJMafQBaZjwoOiS1Z2POiBEirCFn-Zn2pypM07I9v8hiyQhlmTXz1nYSnYonwSt-LgpfDhMvLMulULzU3OvVk4UIQ/s4032/IMG_8448.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDSLdAxAh0s4J0nn86GyNb1lpfXayHkC78-n4xklJriOE28mdGLX4HQNSgjKjketVlJZOTbBtLzoHYtdoDAhTtVN93l1Q1JsOLKJMafQBaZjwoOiS1Z2POiBEirCFn-Zn2pypM07I9v8hiyQhlmTXz1nYSnYonwSt-LgpfDhMvLMulULzU3OvVk4UIQ/s320/IMG_8448.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt990LZmvE9EZNrtXltrKs31ZuTxNKaxfXe5c-IUqBda2-8KP33JUsQcYdiYAlbigmZUd3WD4GzXvTk_p_w8UszcnBHzVI5ND81g72GrNb3xiVNr_gPq2JPfme6G9oiABOrj5h-SVxLM_KtAl5DhVjbvVIr-t43SLYB5IEr7MM0Llj4ys6TKSPVRvOAg/s4032/IMG_8449.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt990LZmvE9EZNrtXltrKs31ZuTxNKaxfXe5c-IUqBda2-8KP33JUsQcYdiYAlbigmZUd3WD4GzXvTk_p_w8UszcnBHzVI5ND81g72GrNb3xiVNr_gPq2JPfme6G9oiABOrj5h-SVxLM_KtAl5DhVjbvVIr-t43SLYB5IEr7MM0Llj4ys6TKSPVRvOAg/s320/IMG_8449.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"> I particularly enjoyed the walk along the narrow passageway above the sanctuary with the views of the organ, the dome and then over the west door with its gallery. Here there had survived a large reliquary to store the sacred reserves on Maundy Thursday.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9vSYLQ7YOiZ0Ps2ebb-MRwnvJtTNr4okXUpDQl_yy6rvqEKvTHkxPXM4UnGl7bJXY0lK0b5WQ1Yj4MvpjCJ9rRmUDDi5IRtEj3ZyRhbM1vIyUUtWXlAa1wqRSXKQBBezfCw13_H-KG3sfi0h0npWHvlPFUbFpE9x_MY26RuKXYKSIsS_2R8Tp_Z3p8w/s4032/IMG_8232.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9vSYLQ7YOiZ0Ps2ebb-MRwnvJtTNr4okXUpDQl_yy6rvqEKvTHkxPXM4UnGl7bJXY0lK0b5WQ1Yj4MvpjCJ9rRmUDDi5IRtEj3ZyRhbM1vIyUUtWXlAa1wqRSXKQBBezfCw13_H-KG3sfi0h0npWHvlPFUbFpE9x_MY26RuKXYKSIsS_2R8Tp_Z3p8w/s320/IMG_8232.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The above fine sacristy of 1752 was enlarged 1770.I was amused that the two contemporary blackwood chests were sometimes filled with Brazilian sugar rather than ornaments.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafJpmQaCtxLeFd6obqXB54y-ntZwM-cm0SrliqqTCUR_WFGIBVBcWq4vhf4pW2oYmKwWAh825JElJI975KNooNJ5yaQs2qdscs4H4Ob7nLH_5bST2En8_5Ocl-pniOwGYNT0RMDtozRprKTk-b71mZ5-_W_hddAqlnpzklD6_p4ZjwVEBvm_nJcEqhA/s4032/IMG_8440.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafJpmQaCtxLeFd6obqXB54y-ntZwM-cm0SrliqqTCUR_WFGIBVBcWq4vhf4pW2oYmKwWAh825JElJI975KNooNJ5yaQs2qdscs4H4Ob7nLH_5bST2En8_5Ocl-pniOwGYNT0RMDtozRprKTk-b71mZ5-_W_hddAqlnpzklD6_p4ZjwVEBvm_nJcEqhA/s320/IMG_8440.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUmXCeCeHO0kMGlu3WxtLhinHT6uuHXBUv9RAbfa1aD1fHWGgk6WmpDUjSbNzLaitQpRBJgN8DFASS6EO3H_cNWCxsCoqA9hLiHlh1zpPAl0KkzTpuHZObcuB5p-XL_nU3FVN5mg5_AFiRbbSLEz3Gk_eRJ-romdSOMddid4EK6s7rysjqe_DXYL4Fw/s4032/IMG_8402.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUmXCeCeHO0kMGlu3WxtLhinHT6uuHXBUv9RAbfa1aD1fHWGgk6WmpDUjSbNzLaitQpRBJgN8DFASS6EO3H_cNWCxsCoqA9hLiHlh1zpPAl0KkzTpuHZObcuB5p-XL_nU3FVN5mg5_AFiRbbSLEz3Gk_eRJ-romdSOMddid4EK6s7rysjqe_DXYL4Fw/s320/IMG_8402.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The House or former Infirmary was started in the 1750s "to accomodate and heal the poor and sick Brothers." It began in a single room with one rosewood bed and three of walnut with altar at the far end and sacristy beyond. Patients were received there 1754-1828. It is now the Museum of Christ images. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNYA3Q4Ph_6jKLKR5WIVASkCnYVjDOs8KH6F-58PeRUpqNoCcyi_J6Dbvgn5sGMnejel_cqxgB9VGqDzJOQhHfy_SjxIqiXJsEiqhYvi432ohuBbPLHWISrU9w0lBh9flg5dabFYTrQ52CAITkeWLpAkJzHrt4XWOPn2uoXQxC5e0HVwqhZJwVLBqnQ/s4032/IMG_8275.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNYA3Q4Ph_6jKLKR5WIVASkCnYVjDOs8KH6F-58PeRUpqNoCcyi_J6Dbvgn5sGMnejel_cqxgB9VGqDzJOQhHfy_SjxIqiXJsEiqhYvi432ohuBbPLHWISrU9w0lBh9flg5dabFYTrQ52CAITkeWLpAkJzHrt4XWOPn2uoXQxC5e0HVwqhZJwVLBqnQ/w480-h640/IMG_8275.HEIC" width="480" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">There needed to be a tower and maybe the original intention was to have two. The resulting single Campanile tower was built 1757-63 246 feet high and 240 steps. Maybe it was inspired by the Baroque tower of the Palazzo Vechio in Florence. Whatever the inspiration it dominates the city and is beloved by locals and tourists. Its six sections are elegant and pleasing to my eye. I did resist the climb to the top : preferring to spend lots of time in the church, house and former infirmary now museum.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-29205842782835580592023-01-05T09:42:00.003-08:002023-01-08T06:51:11.143-08:00Bom Jesus do Monte, Braga<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSCx5u16DiycOXMX1s8ByKLsHA8OqmqiDBmA1IUE-Ginp6KeghJe8pHs0EoSyAcwkqLeePtBX4hfBxq1OIP1Z5BdtWbTknuVF8lp5aJ1eQOmBGl0w6-Y3FvcC87FTAgSAv4WqNM_1gO__nfg1mxwYrf2E6JlAOXPEYOo5yqv3nYwnOBf1owEjia2S1A/s4032/IMG_8503.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSCx5u16DiycOXMX1s8ByKLsHA8OqmqiDBmA1IUE-Ginp6KeghJe8pHs0EoSyAcwkqLeePtBX4hfBxq1OIP1Z5BdtWbTknuVF8lp5aJ1eQOmBGl0w6-Y3FvcC87FTAgSAv4WqNM_1gO__nfg1mxwYrf2E6JlAOXPEYOo5yqv3nYwnOBf1owEjia2S1A/w480-h640/IMG_8503.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Life is like a journey, and climbing a hill can inspire our deepest thoughts. The climb can be used for contemplation and the summit can give us a sense of exhilaration. Around the world all peoples have used hill top sanctuaries. Bom Jesus do Monte (Good Jesus of the Mountain) near Braga is a famous Catholic pilgrimage site that I just had to see. The photos document our visit 2 Dec 2022.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Before I give my reflection on the visit I will include passages by Suzanne Chantal and Jose Augusto dos Santos who give a better impression of the atmosphere :</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">"The Bom Jesus ...receives pilgrims all the year round. The Via Sacra first winds between thick clumps of trees studded with chapels containing the Fourteen Stations (sic)of the Cross bathed in theatrical light. Finally we arrive at a dignified double staircase which opens and closes like a fan ; it is divided by landings ornamented with curious statues - the Five Senses followed by the Virtues- and leads to an upper terrace watched over by helmeted horsemen and edged by stone balustrades. For the walker, the ascent to the Bom Jesus is a slow stroll in the park of some eccentric prince ; he is bathed in an unsettling form of lyricism springing from the harmonious contrast between lush, perfumed gardens and the stone of the statues whose rich baroque shapes bristling with plumes and tastles are outlined against the bright blue sky. the slope is so steep that the huge, shady esplanade by the sanctuary, crowded with sellers of medalss and statues and tables selling lemonade and confectionary, is not disclosed until the last step."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">. It was an easy train ride from Porto and then bus to the entrance to the sanctuary at the foot of the hill. There is a water balanced funicular to reach the top. Despite a week of punishing steps and gradients in Porto I had to walk up! Over 570 steps : this was mad but how could a good Catholic not climb up. Years ago pilgrims were encouraged to go up on their knees (perhaps part?) but I drew the line at that...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx90U1GNrGUdBR_NuyArWl9MK1jJ5pgNxr6n3_19zd1tNlz6e-x4wtW58tdsHwxqMyktlktwGz8BbrMdPLB0mpaxK2o7vZ34I_ZEtOxTzZDvArBmL86behLkh_vu9CIp5_sdkva5REXSfNYiJWBHzKA0Z8hWS-5MUV18MAlcuqbFYv-F2FM8kzhgtAjQ/s4032/IMG_8501.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx90U1GNrGUdBR_NuyArWl9MK1jJ5pgNxr6n3_19zd1tNlz6e-x4wtW58tdsHwxqMyktlktwGz8BbrMdPLB0mpaxK2o7vZ34I_ZEtOxTzZDvArBmL86behLkh_vu9CIp5_sdkva5REXSfNYiJWBHzKA0Z8hWS-5MUV18MAlcuqbFYv-F2FM8kzhgtAjQ/s320/IMG_8501.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-EkdoyDRcCk" width="320" youtube-src-id="-EkdoyDRcCk"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Above is a little video of the initial stairways. You may prefer to switvh off the sound!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mzQwkJkVLhGy9EN-vxSCQiIYiXtaQzTYfUJJ3vfnVK9zKIk-3OMAmkrUv9MSCUSDLaG0xS9AcOUDKJqWLG4UQa-05h_krr4Qoc1SAHktYPA2jmLpdgCmcoZgvNyGuW3XiVirAr_tqHM0Y9BaSKqoCtP1D2PovtMJqAh8aAshjPSzBvlhfWPeoNmNFw/s4032/IMG_8500.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mzQwkJkVLhGy9EN-vxSCQiIYiXtaQzTYfUJJ3vfnVK9zKIk-3OMAmkrUv9MSCUSDLaG0xS9AcOUDKJqWLG4UQa-05h_krr4Qoc1SAHktYPA2jmLpdgCmcoZgvNyGuW3XiVirAr_tqHM0Y9BaSKqoCtP1D2PovtMJqAh8aAshjPSzBvlhfWPeoNmNFw/s320/IMG_8500.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZyv7kB4HFG-PlIS1JkLRYteo-dyCIGHGk-uqZz85NlYX67IEgVdg4dziYBOBqDnYYvPr-nN6WQIBmrVdxMMuVhItJ0aa_nH5ZwHO2CZKboqin43fAnFi0Hn-4oQa2Ev5wJHS3-dW71fHkObJrBRBnpmdhB9CcfJFrkLqY-ahpISdakWGEZn2ZBe1tA/s4032/IMG_8499.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZyv7kB4HFG-PlIS1JkLRYteo-dyCIGHGk-uqZz85NlYX67IEgVdg4dziYBOBqDnYYvPr-nN6WQIBmrVdxMMuVhItJ0aa_nH5ZwHO2CZKboqin43fAnFi0Hn-4oQa2Ev5wJHS3-dW71fHkObJrBRBnpmdhB9CcfJFrkLqY-ahpISdakWGEZn2ZBe1tA/s320/IMG_8499.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Pilgrims came here from at least the 14th century and there was a church built in 1629. However it was Archbishop Rodrigo de Moura Telles who started the present concept of stairs with chapels marking the Via Crucis and church in 1722. We gradually ascended these first rows of steps totalling 376, stopping off to view the terracotta sculptures in the 6 chapels dedicated to the Passion. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgto6T_Un0FengLHEKjlMOpKL30TWQ_oo3aq1BUMzggzYz2GiRACUL5chsvVQhuHU7ehDjlj_N6JrhmcLST8SBE00Mx6mJ4YRI9MsS8L-n34q5ObIIIIrkYu032hCTVEZYBnPIvOY5V9j8U2QzTqRePEXt8QDd4zCDhXGrfXxG2dcV9uf_u59JkdebBkA/s4032/IMG_8505.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgto6T_Un0FengLHEKjlMOpKL30TWQ_oo3aq1BUMzggzYz2GiRACUL5chsvVQhuHU7ehDjlj_N6JrhmcLST8SBE00Mx6mJ4YRI9MsS8L-n34q5ObIIIIrkYu032hCTVEZYBnPIvOY5V9j8U2QzTqRePEXt8QDd4zCDhXGrfXxG2dcV9uf_u59JkdebBkA/s320/IMG_8505.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADWuo4dVME2M8Y7TJUCC7Qw_jEOiH_PtaiTwl2BDmaiS194zcPO8NUkBmNeXStU9gxtHpMEnSF7HORk-ziRxcFMhaDvMaJfcQF_KgEXF3RPhBflOL3zRnuwLD2CbEpZShwmTqp69F_d5mg77gZnyraAxwWth5xWZLwkBzmKQDvUzG0Se-QzeG4RK2nw/s4032/IMG_8506.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADWuo4dVME2M8Y7TJUCC7Qw_jEOiH_PtaiTwl2BDmaiS194zcPO8NUkBmNeXStU9gxtHpMEnSF7HORk-ziRxcFMhaDvMaJfcQF_KgEXF3RPhBflOL3zRnuwLD2CbEpZShwmTqp69F_d5mg77gZnyraAxwWth5xWZLwkBzmKQDvUzG0Se-QzeG4RK2nw/s320/IMG_8506.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Archbishop Telles also sponsored the zigzag stairways that follow dedicated to the 5 senses (sight, hearing, smell, touch, taste) 104 steps. The mixture of white walls, granite, ballustrades, statues, flowers, produce an enchanted yet extraordinary sacred garden landscape. The views were stunning as we climbed higher and higher. The first 18th century church was by Manuel Pinto Vilalobos ; sdaly no longer there.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zupbotdopEo" width="320" youtube-src-id="zupbotdopEo"></iframe></div>Above your walk is continued up the zigzag part. In Portuguese.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94qtKWzFvklfyWjIIOPcxi8ZZ2N9fr4bGzJjkvkNBbRp4EHOlZ9pdcfn9LINW700Elb7MF8Z670O7Z91LPjovxigowTsoS6gf-ojy5nkSXnOu-Q1JnCsBk07EBvnXJGCRoJ0V6XXXk74kID9qREUmaCbtvYcqfP3WYJa3hS_OPHec33riZy9GICC31A/s4032/IMG_8507.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94qtKWzFvklfyWjIIOPcxi8ZZ2N9fr4bGzJjkvkNBbRp4EHOlZ9pdcfn9LINW700Elb7MF8Z670O7Z91LPjovxigowTsoS6gf-ojy5nkSXnOu-Q1JnCsBk07EBvnXJGCRoJ0V6XXXk74kID9qREUmaCbtvYcqfP3WYJa3hS_OPHec33riZy9GICC31A/s320/IMG_8507.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9iPoqBqE0yTj8Ta8I-hHjgiCm0c3zvANzBxIsTGejsMZTHzhO6A2FlZ39Kgx7PhTR11iC4C7WHfvyL1lua3RWIPO3tEHbsPyfaS-HTQuHxv-4_bIuThoo03jKHZzEjt7pLHC_HfqBWeotWd-pSBclxB1za-LeSZ6HWlmRUmpaJvJZCM05oiCRvuctNQ/s4032/IMG_8511.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9iPoqBqE0yTj8Ta8I-hHjgiCm0c3zvANzBxIsTGejsMZTHzhO6A2FlZ39Kgx7PhTR11iC4C7WHfvyL1lua3RWIPO3tEHbsPyfaS-HTQuHxv-4_bIuThoo03jKHZzEjt7pLHC_HfqBWeotWd-pSBclxB1za-LeSZ6HWlmRUmpaJvJZCM05oiCRvuctNQ/s320/IMG_8511.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In 1781 Archbishop Gaspar de Braganca added a third segment of stairs (93) dedicated to faith hope and charity, and the church was demolished and a rebuild in a neoclassical style by Carlos Amarate started in 1784. The interior was completed in the early 19th century and consecrated in 1834. Sacheverell Sitwell says simply "the church is entirely negligible and not worth entering". From an artistic point of view it is a disappointment but as the pilgrimage summit it is indispensable.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">This is a wonderful place ; views over toward pleasant hills, not jagged mountains, a sense of peace, a pleasure, no a privilege, to be alive and to be there. The ice cream after the climb was good too. We went back down via the funicular....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj70MzP8Z_KIG8FkYYBdALtZd8WltkzaI0x9w_LlowACeLoa04jZjfLQSWaeFcyttwhxHz8lcV3HeL-En_js4OGa8G9oEFpMuDV-MAm3UjHKwf43gov047DCTljQp1xAEc8CaOLTVM7XDaBE0V2sf-zjA6aGHr-EQrYSQLt0IfKHpbOoY80G6687zJSAg/s4032/IMG_8508.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj70MzP8Z_KIG8FkYYBdALtZd8WltkzaI0x9w_LlowACeLoa04jZjfLQSWaeFcyttwhxHz8lcV3HeL-En_js4OGa8G9oEFpMuDV-MAm3UjHKwf43gov047DCTljQp1xAEc8CaOLTVM7XDaBE0V2sf-zjA6aGHr-EQrYSQLt0IfKHpbOoY80G6687zJSAg/w400-h300/IMG_8508.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJR4JiR68KwQSuLn7ZTHIKt_ypU8psm4Mi3yVr5yQ_Az7EdBFe0ACgPL6elguRjc8IZsSGs5APTNKiSPe-Ho-qgwUeU09wWKYs1PLohXH7HZgUoVIuYSM_Bl1FhBLw--s-qR5XceIrhQi3nBJ4Lz0BXzFmzqsIwj1Tk3kmZEonkFgVkslDuFKVATG60g/s4032/IMG_8514.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJR4JiR68KwQSuLn7ZTHIKt_ypU8psm4Mi3yVr5yQ_Az7EdBFe0ACgPL6elguRjc8IZsSGs5APTNKiSPe-Ho-qgwUeU09wWKYs1PLohXH7HZgUoVIuYSM_Bl1FhBLw--s-qR5XceIrhQi3nBJ4Lz0BXzFmzqsIwj1Tk3kmZEonkFgVkslDuFKVATG60g/w640-h480/IMG_8514.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9ieQ3zSIY4JIw6qlfGAFppKAKNTW45itfoLoHvhzwcxhu_5bhsuv2FRDNyHTKa_nubKp4bjvqFO9Y8xsYBv-3mS6ruzpYLvTYL7xUrlT_SGpxs1U4dSQ3ZyYBtqhsbaooRhG4VjjapOolPaa4sR3J7i-KNgmrjxruHAZHZCD3gh9ReZE8xtaMozkAA/s4032/IMG_8512.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9ieQ3zSIY4JIw6qlfGAFppKAKNTW45itfoLoHvhzwcxhu_5bhsuv2FRDNyHTKa_nubKp4bjvqFO9Y8xsYBv-3mS6ruzpYLvTYL7xUrlT_SGpxs1U4dSQ3ZyYBtqhsbaooRhG4VjjapOolPaa4sR3J7i-KNgmrjxruHAZHZCD3gh9ReZE8xtaMozkAA/w640-h480/IMG_8512.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghoV-BG2Dx6kcNsz8oKbqj2z9qcq-LYARJ30aSMwYYcr8tWycLsc5nuSgmObUO7HVIvhRm4lq5F3Tr3w9Lz__fV4Rdo65pf3Nkqhr95f4HHf4wSp5T28L2MeCxHPd8xM2n2z44hp2wZRxwl6MgBubq03E1i0O4fbfG1X7UuXKLob8rxFYcLgabZS2UWQ/s4032/IMG_8518.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghoV-BG2Dx6kcNsz8oKbqj2z9qcq-LYARJ30aSMwYYcr8tWycLsc5nuSgmObUO7HVIvhRm4lq5F3Tr3w9Lz__fV4Rdo65pf3Nkqhr95f4HHf4wSp5T28L2MeCxHPd8xM2n2z44hp2wZRxwl6MgBubq03E1i0O4fbfG1X7UuXKLob8rxFYcLgabZS2UWQ/w300-h400/IMG_8518.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The late 18th century church</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXvMtw0LSW4OUPEdcDAeFso_tw9ADszIGs4yCJ0EyKU7XjHJ8cJZWZ7rilr1bx5QNEbyL6JYcFqiFbGPVTvJVyDvKWINhwx8H_pfh3kf4PfAQMY-_mP63OEZDElV7uxJQlSX7Az30SONKNkbyKn13lTeJa4QC9N-jstGdoYRLBhv3AC9wrzQ5ITymHg/s4032/IMG_8515.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXvMtw0LSW4OUPEdcDAeFso_tw9ADszIGs4yCJ0EyKU7XjHJ8cJZWZ7rilr1bx5QNEbyL6JYcFqiFbGPVTvJVyDvKWINhwx8H_pfh3kf4PfAQMY-_mP63OEZDElV7uxJQlSX7Az30SONKNkbyKn13lTeJa4QC9N-jstGdoYRLBhv3AC9wrzQ5ITymHg/w480-h640/IMG_8515.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The neoclassical interior of the church</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDGVQBpuLwwW0f5bm4hAuuxod6O3Tn___u3ufxzHzklRHThSZbrlBLX7P1IhWXWjpz6y_XpS5w2tqNBdRoL0vzOUwxIl4cMi9Psj1jSdox-dBzzhXYRR7n2hbCClBxGA-fufD_aEGt6SBfx-VkA-hu8KlJmeevvLIhtpU3yWyObhgiA7JIkW-zEqW4A/s4032/IMG_8517.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDGVQBpuLwwW0f5bm4hAuuxod6O3Tn___u3ufxzHzklRHThSZbrlBLX7P1IhWXWjpz6y_XpS5w2tqNBdRoL0vzOUwxIl4cMi9Psj1jSdox-dBzzhXYRR7n2hbCClBxGA-fufD_aEGt6SBfx-VkA-hu8KlJmeevvLIhtpU3yWyObhgiA7JIkW-zEqW4A/s320/IMG_8517.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHia6JPX5azVL7pvWc_X53XJPKc6I4X_S5sK2Q4GSjeSAoU7q1hRNbxfkGR-KHrjQSHVbrwi_zBYH0b1ibh_eXCELX_FHk7klol0BfcnzqGFIKYTu-k6l947QFqrytBEBCqhZkGNCOujl442PGQUJuPire28nRLbbtfVqQbF3c4BKk-XoCdaZUuRO0w/s4032/IMG_8516.HEIC" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHia6JPX5azVL7pvWc_X53XJPKc6I4X_S5sK2Q4GSjeSAoU7q1hRNbxfkGR-KHrjQSHVbrwi_zBYH0b1ibh_eXCELX_FHk7klol0BfcnzqGFIKYTu-k6l947QFqrytBEBCqhZkGNCOujl442PGQUJuPire28nRLbbtfVqQbF3c4BKk-XoCdaZUuRO0w/s320/IMG_8516.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div> Left : Good example of stepped altar commonly seen in Portuguese churches</div><div> Right : church rear view with one sided organ...</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/B9jEvbq7hcc" width="320" youtube-src-id="B9jEvbq7hcc"></iframe></div><br /><div>A last little video you might enjoy</div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-90922106154081120342022-11-16T09:32:00.001-08:002022-11-16T09:32:40.111-08:00Derby Cathedral<p> Coming from South Lincolnshire I used to expect English churches to be stone, old, Medieval. There would be some Victorian Gothic churches too - Medieval imitations. Only London had strange shoebox like churches, often with galleries, because of the Great Fire. Now of course I know better. There are some fine 17th and 18th century churches around the country. All Saints Derby is one of these. Luckily I was able to visit recently because of a nearby music conference.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qMkX7yRZ1uPE1jZ5qr4KAAaCRHU6E-h6cSNs-OHR6CLtKxgTIV0qP0T-_aX2LcMSaskmCAtwpQDETMLGw-y1jGl6yrmUlkw6FGGYZkOC7xfhozTdI_cRhBCKdPXTxgQs7n_OA_UmjV5y5qCHMdRMQwdxunHFbqbB-SM36i3YQfxqWMHotZNIS9KTRA/s4032/IMG_7724.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qMkX7yRZ1uPE1jZ5qr4KAAaCRHU6E-h6cSNs-OHR6CLtKxgTIV0qP0T-_aX2LcMSaskmCAtwpQDETMLGw-y1jGl6yrmUlkw6FGGYZkOC7xfhozTdI_cRhBCKdPXTxgQs7n_OA_UmjV5y5qCHMdRMQwdxunHFbqbB-SM36i3YQfxqWMHotZNIS9KTRA/w640-h480/IMG_7724.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the church with west gallery over<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>All Saints Church Derby originated in the Saxon 10th century. A medieval church replacement was built in the 14th century. The magnificent 212 foot Perpendicular tower was added as late as 1532.Unfortunately the church became unusable by the early 18th century and a decision had to be made to rebuild. A design was submitted by Francis Smith of Warwick. This was unpopular and there was even doubt that a rebuild would be done at all. Fortunately a strong man was at hand. Dr Michael Hutchinson, the minister, bulldozed a proposal to rebuild through and took it upon himself to meet the expenses himself except "this simple proviso that they should not give his wife any molestation (for she was a woman that could not bear trouble) in case he dropped off before the work was finished". The local Corporation were obstructive so Hutchinson got a group together and started to demolish it. Thereupon the Corporation gave in and even assisted Hutchinson as he visited London, Oxford and Cambridge and other centres to raise money. Isaac Newton gave £5 guineas and Robert Walpole £20 guineas and so over £3000 was raised. James Gibbs was the architect chosen and of the total building cost was £4588 8s 8d he received £25 for the design! This doesn't sound fair!</p><p>The new rectangular Church was built, incorporating the late Medieval porch and tower, in 1723-5. Dr Hutchinson continued to be controversial and resigned in 1728, dying 18 months later, to leave debts and financial confusion. But the church had been built. Gibbs design was simple and plain according the money raised, expectations and liturgical demands. The result is a compromise of various styles - not unlike St Martin in the Fields in London. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKH2PS1pgp8frhzuGeewRd1_7DGURG0cKhISJucBjzb6UBfd3K0vWw-2MsvZxp_cgELbMOeS03YjatUX3jk3JNbrbcL7bW_4i0mK6GmBAFTghwSSrPQfx17qWXx44-AwVxebZiFySuJBV9manjiCOAB87XkPOxg6-K8sfUGNh-Elk1-KqPKZLtC0WJg/s4032/IMG_7732.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKH2PS1pgp8frhzuGeewRd1_7DGURG0cKhISJucBjzb6UBfd3K0vWw-2MsvZxp_cgELbMOeS03YjatUX3jk3JNbrbcL7bW_4i0mK6GmBAFTghwSSrPQfx17qWXx44-AwVxebZiFySuJBV9manjiCOAB87XkPOxg6-K8sfUGNh-Elk1-KqPKZLtC0WJg/s320/IMG_7732.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View showing vaulting and square slice of<br />entablature at top of pillars </td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>The columns in the nave have square slices of entablature at the top to meet the vault, a device to avoid a thicker pillar of similar size from floor to ceiling. This lightens the atmosphere but has not been praised by all experts.</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxs4sWQWbTZN9G2UqhOSsMWv5YEMXMrf7_0S1vj8MNC8uRrscdjqjykzK0osnzQ9yzX42kxkh1ivtaknyb6Pxg355nBgfS1UqWTjrd5iYRHVZNxv4csJJ7Bohxeh6qClOutM7z0-jVqUArC5H8jj0JpAFh1lJI6HOQ96CE8ZKR6dkjoTslfsMYxvbng/s4032/IMG_7723.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxs4sWQWbTZN9G2UqhOSsMWv5YEMXMrf7_0S1vj8MNC8uRrscdjqjykzK0osnzQ9yzX42kxkh1ivtaknyb6Pxg355nBgfS1UqWTjrd5iYRHVZNxv4csJJ7Bohxeh6qClOutM7z0-jVqUArC5H8jj0JpAFh1lJI6HOQ96CE8ZKR6dkjoTslfsMYxvbng/s320/IMG_7723.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the window architrave design</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The use of blocked or rusticated architraves around windows and doors became common in the 18th century and this use by Gibbs may be the first with the side windows of a church.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The interior we see today is not quite what Gibbs intended. The east end has been greatly extended 1965-72 to designs by Sebastian Comper (moderated from earlier plans by his father Ninian). There is also a baldochin by Sir Ninian which tends to dominate. The extension had become necessary ever since All Saints had become a Cathedral in 1927. The new accomodation enabled a Chapter Room, Song School, sacristy and offices.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrlqFDIWJVNF155ez3xLUDwUk6AO37SGn2EkUd5o8evTaDOPZF3U6nMjteLrL6IHi7vhCHA5oygv8id6Jaa-T4IKvO_mi3JkQ1cLVHUEUirKE-p-yMaxeMIC5O6UkJUCLrffT2A7tCkxVWKSMevve8pAiI9agAf5MBJl2UKQZ0YFlY1GhlPe33Uu99Q/s4032/IMG_7725.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrlqFDIWJVNF155ez3xLUDwUk6AO37SGn2EkUd5o8evTaDOPZF3U6nMjteLrL6IHi7vhCHA5oygv8id6Jaa-T4IKvO_mi3JkQ1cLVHUEUirKE-p-yMaxeMIC5O6UkJUCLrffT2A7tCkxVWKSMevve8pAiI9agAf5MBJl2UKQZ0YFlY1GhlPe33Uu99Q/w640-h480/IMG_7725.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down to the baldochin<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>The original interior was rather cold compared to St Martin in the Fields and the only striking ornamentation was in the magnificent ironwork screens by Robert Bakewell (1682-1752). These are Bakewell's masterpiece and worthy of c omparison with the work by Jean Lamour in the Place Stanislaus in Nancy. Unfortunately they were damaged in the reordering of the church but now have been restored beautifully and the centre part is largely original. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerFBQ1xNnQotadNDLg8LPVQr1Rt3yZFONfvkIX8niXN-gpS8xehEtXZzyPy6rPM9DtiRgGDC72kT5KpKGd3ujRpzCgE_MnPPaAMRQh9j3JvFA8dmKQqG49fCElk37EB8S9Ks-gW3mDbRzvDMyqZe2ZXjKLkixDBFKrXWu_fa0RbFWkq_7NO9n18DKPg/s4032/IMG_7729.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerFBQ1xNnQotadNDLg8LPVQr1Rt3yZFONfvkIX8niXN-gpS8xehEtXZzyPy6rPM9DtiRgGDC72kT5KpKGd3ujRpzCgE_MnPPaAMRQh9j3JvFA8dmKQqG49fCElk37EB8S9Ks-gW3mDbRzvDMyqZe2ZXjKLkixDBFKrXWu_fa0RbFWkq_7NO9n18DKPg/w400-h300/IMG_7729.HEIC" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comper baldochin<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>James Gibbs was pleased that he did not have to add galleries as these were unpopular with architects for disturbing the entablature of the pillars. However the west gallery was added in 1841 to meet demand for seating and later in the century the choir was moved down into the chancel. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAo0C_YCwb_rMUHIg3xfQ3okMbcb8muY4e7-Jlj-zgUVpFZ6rjzPxbKZZwiLPtE1kvDF6kG0s8aaIiF_iAqBP_s-k1EP_NeUdrPGAkZRBE4UoiMHwVltpXU_WMpKQwFwep1acQnyf6qWB8PlaxTWjkkx0hS4aSuQ1_fDiRxdkLsx0IRXdU3EdnX4ppA/s4032/IMG_7726.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAo0C_YCwb_rMUHIg3xfQ3okMbcb8muY4e7-Jlj-zgUVpFZ6rjzPxbKZZwiLPtE1kvDF6kG0s8aaIiF_iAqBP_s-k1EP_NeUdrPGAkZRBE4UoiMHwVltpXU_WMpKQwFwep1acQnyf6qWB8PlaxTWjkkx0hS4aSuQ1_fDiRxdkLsx0IRXdU3EdnX4ppA/s320/IMG_7726.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The west gallery</td></tr></tbody></table><p>There was a Consistory Court housed in a canopied wooden structure in the north aisle, dating originally from 1643. This was used for dealing with ecclesiastical disputes and matters.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgECXqcZ75YfPsDjWygcNlg4jDPlUyfZogOZmVe-BzKqvRKMAeJaFfOHNuL6EoM6LlezcUyOLeG0qfvdeZW9wmPWRJTxYyg7L6owRUJRuXRm970lMrcHg7_thXKO-CUj1SMEtRTK848_W3jaWC4DiR8i0RwX885XmEFkOEpWMacMHRPLD8yLtkw5wjJTA/s4032/IMG_7730.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgECXqcZ75YfPsDjWygcNlg4jDPlUyfZogOZmVe-BzKqvRKMAeJaFfOHNuL6EoM6LlezcUyOLeG0qfvdeZW9wmPWRJTxYyg7L6owRUJRuXRm970lMrcHg7_thXKO-CUj1SMEtRTK848_W3jaWC4DiR8i0RwX885XmEFkOEpWMacMHRPLD8yLtkw5wjJTA/s320/IMG_7730.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bess of Hardwick's memorial</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The south aisle contains the Cavendish area and fans of Bess of<span style="background-color: white;"> Hardwick,</span> Countess of Shrewsbury, should not miss the late Elizabethan monument, the design of which she herself had supervised. There are some 44 Cavendish family members buried here including the famous 18th century Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, a remarkable woman. What a pity the much heralded 2008 film "The Duchess" was such a let down.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6Il9px-ZHeAujtO65O12shRZQrfoXG9YJAPL5hRAmyTEwnje6NBE_wyC-NhBopWKa1yw_okv75O0LgPSU3H9tM3YR5FChxLGf9mQTR8n6VD72-0R9xSX3RxmCLnhmFl89BpRyA_jZT3MaUVM9QDMRFWLa3FJXEPqkDZTNMqCpZxvwDbc9jmzfPUY7w/s4032/IMG_7731.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6Il9px-ZHeAujtO65O12shRZQrfoXG9YJAPL5hRAmyTEwnje6NBE_wyC-NhBopWKa1yw_okv75O0LgPSU3H9tM3YR5FChxLGf9mQTR8n6VD72-0R9xSX3RxmCLnhmFl89BpRyA_jZT3MaUVM9QDMRFWLa3FJXEPqkDZTNMqCpZxvwDbc9jmzfPUY7w/s320/IMG_7731.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bess of Hardwick<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Finally, Bonnie Prince Charlie got as far as Derby in his 1745 rebellion and had the bells rung, followed by a service. Very shortly after the Scots retreated and the decisive battle of Culloden followed. Apart from the inevitable city centre ring road I enjoyed my time in Derby visiting this great church and seeing that Derby is preserving the other major buildings in its centre. I was impressed.</p><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9RP9pg3MoOOJ3JpFPCU0spqmMPNSyzA5c3ppgoVtenjdonkAFWcaB-3sKADMC_aLK-WDlUNPSjKtSzQJxHhV9BkkrCOEYU5i5Hs1i9wSlGkVGAHIpi3LL3xsDQ_22GKs646HsgbBiBfR95C9U-bwC-iU-516yrL9ioZ_1Co2nglxanxgCb9pCCJMaA/s4032/IMG_7722.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9RP9pg3MoOOJ3JpFPCU0spqmMPNSyzA5c3ppgoVtenjdonkAFWcaB-3sKADMC_aLK-WDlUNPSjKtSzQJxHhV9BkkrCOEYU5i5Hs1i9wSlGkVGAHIpi3LL3xsDQ_22GKs646HsgbBiBfR95C9U-bwC-iU-516yrL9ioZ_1Co2nglxanxgCb9pCCJMaA/s320/IMG_7722.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 16th century tower</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p></div>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-49869342161690389142022-11-15T06:58:00.001-08:002022-11-15T07:10:13.794-08:00Santo Domingo, Oaxaca, Mexico<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA5c4X9iMguCY1_v9HFmttUyPlMtRkt1lcddltcVqML9gN4P2kFfibA_GDz0xfwUEU-HdThLhBSVilV_VYcCuApFOcfuG5Ry8k6KHVETVOHXfTY3t3O0VAaXto6Dp7smpES80J88odvnLZ8H7zGifB2lPkWiMX9qXbiocps_TOuLwZYNH17kiQO3dRiQ/s845/SantoDomingo12-05Oaxaca109.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="845" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA5c4X9iMguCY1_v9HFmttUyPlMtRkt1lcddltcVqML9gN4P2kFfibA_GDz0xfwUEU-HdThLhBSVilV_VYcCuApFOcfuG5Ry8k6KHVETVOHXfTY3t3O0VAaXto6Dp7smpES80J88odvnLZ8H7zGifB2lPkWiMX9qXbiocps_TOuLwZYNH17kiQO3dRiQ/w640-h480/SantoDomingo12-05Oaxaca109.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I have never seen Mexico. I always imagine it bakingly hot. It is a record-breaking heatwave here in August 2022 around London so discovering this great church sort of fits. Books, web sites and above all ,Youtube videos have almost taken me there. With its regional Museum in the old restored Dominican convent and possibly the finest Baroque church interior in the country it is a privilege and delight to write about it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Dominicans arrived in Oaxaca around 1530. At first their quarters will have been very simple but between 1575 and 1600 a large cruciform church was built. Alas, this is earthquake country and serious damage was done in 1603 so it was not until 1610 that they moved into the church. The adjoining convent expanded and became one of the largest in Mexico. By 1650 it acted as a college for theology, philosophy, a retreat centre for preachers, as well as a hospital and pharmacy. The decoration of the church was completed in 1666. In 1731 Fr. Dionisio Levanto funded the Rosario Chapel, which was added to the right of the main facade. It is a Baroque gem. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The nineteenth century was a terrible time for the church and convent. Various armies occupied the site from 1812 and the Mexican War of Independence. The War of Reform 1858-61 to get rid of Emperor Maximilian was a disastrous time. Much damage was done (reminding me of the senseless and ignorant destruction and vandalism of Cromwellian troops in our Civil War). From 1866-1902 the site was no longer owned or used by the church. Only in 1902 was it returned to the Church and the monastic convent eventually became a museum. The site has had to withstand sieges, featuring artillery stored on the roof, and earthquakes. It is a wonder that it has survived : in fact a tribute to the thickness of the walls and butressing. I deduce that building went on for over a century from the late 16th century with major additions like the Rosario Chapel and update of the monastic quarters. It is said that it was begun with 2.5 pesos and ended up costing 12 million! It is one of the biggest monastic complexes in Mexico. Originally the large open space in front would have been used as an open chapel with processions, and baptisms at the corner posas.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The exterior of the church was influenced by the Dominican Church in Mexico City and St Esteban in Salamanca, and the towers recall the Giralda in Seville. The architect was Francisco Marin. The west front is Plateresque. This style resembles the work of a silversmith rather than an architect. Perhaps Plateresque is a transitional style linking Renaissance to Baroque. I don't want to get bogged down in definitions and this church, like many in Mexico, has hallmarks of various styles. The large towers protrude each side framing the tall retablo facade. The sculpture on the facade depicts the Roman martyr St Hippolytus donating the church to St Dominic.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivnAwcelXabkjjoMpYjwKcdu5XC1wBBpwn0EBMfAM1ohfBwQpIe1k-PYO9JjZCZW05sr2rwj6ZMboPDgR5dcAETA0Afeb9i5xuG8CweMeUUeEDADEo2EtIwyaY-J7Fbz2RyT6E3ZMFK40qXa82lgc3_Tjlk23OcxDI8IuM6sfh0GBJepuOi1T1ka99lA/s709/640px-Interior_Templo_de_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzman_Oaxaca.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivnAwcelXabkjjoMpYjwKcdu5XC1wBBpwn0EBMfAM1ohfBwQpIe1k-PYO9JjZCZW05sr2rwj6ZMboPDgR5dcAETA0Afeb9i5xuG8CweMeUUeEDADEo2EtIwyaY-J7Fbz2RyT6E3ZMFK40qXa82lgc3_Tjlk23OcxDI8IuM6sfh0GBJepuOi1T1ka99lA/w578-h640/640px-Interior_Templo_de_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzman_Oaxaca.jpg" width="578" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The interior has a single nave with barrel vault with Gothic style arches and a square apse. There are 8 side chapels - 4 each side. There was a stunning mid 17th century retable with 4 tiers. This was destroyed in the 19th century, but has been replaced in the 1950s by a private donor. It has been based on the contemporary one in the Dominican Church at Yanhuitlan which was also by Francisco Marin. Upon entering the church the under side of the balcony has a striking image of a great family tree of Santo Domingo with golden branches, leaves and crowned figures, based on a Jesse tree. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyiUaVXKnuSLUFLKc-lXeJ0KjNGznnqVqN2JhW0peo9uDH8K5FguQ6lLyo2rq6vlcVcLjoVCvcvoxphlICPWFajrmFV9_QBhPBI0HGyf5P3LynM28OYwMTLu3G7D8HOso9M4mf-pMv28dab6e0Ko7VIyC0Qk34lWwXlP9ETE3Oym3bLzcpV16ju8nnlQ/s1024/Interior_Templo_de_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzm%C3%A1n.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyiUaVXKnuSLUFLKc-lXeJ0KjNGznnqVqN2JhW0peo9uDH8K5FguQ6lLyo2rq6vlcVcLjoVCvcvoxphlICPWFajrmFV9_QBhPBI0HGyf5P3LynM28OYwMTLu3G7D8HOso9M4mf-pMv28dab6e0Ko7VIyC0Qk34lWwXlP9ETE3Oym3bLzcpV16ju8nnlQ/w640-h426/Interior_Templo_de_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzm%C3%A1n.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"> Everywhere - walls, vaults, niches, domes there seems to be <i>Horror vacui</i> (fear of open space). This was a characteristic of earlier work in Puebla. Perhaps artisans from Puebla brought this practice to Oaxaca. It should be noted that <i>Horror vacui</i> is not restricted to Mexico and is characteristic also of Andalusia in Spain, Southwest Asia, and North Africa. Everyweher is decorated with circles, ovals, and medallions with biblical characters, polychrome platerwork and gold plated reliefs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CDbgj4QSXQ7iu7AUSP47JJaQDlLBbFUOM-lC5o8bZmleXJvDenKXvn3vYroCU0FFq1Joysy15LMWeZH5r6z3LM5I0JrcCFajeV4gNGWVzNfHP_ebtcSh7v3UJtpnYpHArLiz2lZSYYwVFyJPzxYrCvWRjVQFb5onw_QynQorb0CvdSHIaTKFOGa3Yg/s500/Santodom.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="319" data-original-width="500" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CDbgj4QSXQ7iu7AUSP47JJaQDlLBbFUOM-lC5o8bZmleXJvDenKXvn3vYroCU0FFq1Joysy15LMWeZH5r6z3LM5I0JrcCFajeV4gNGWVzNfHP_ebtcSh7v3UJtpnYpHArLiz2lZSYYwVFyJPzxYrCvWRjVQFb5onw_QynQorb0CvdSHIaTKFOGa3Yg/w640-h408/Santodom.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Rosary is a central part of Dominican prayer life. Their tradition says it was first given to St Dominic in a vision in the early 13th century. This is shown in a relief over the portal of the Baroque Rosary Chapel. By the mid 15th century there were Rosary Confraternities and by mid 16th century Pope Sixtus V had codified the ritual. The finance for the chapel came from the cochineal trade centred on Oaxaca, which produced a red dye derived from these insects attracted to the local cacti.. This chapel was one of the most sumptuous of all Mexican Baroque interiors : it had a solid silver altar rail. The whole interior is covered with saints and figures right into the dome which rests on an octagonal drum where the Virgin holds court. Much of the original was lost in the 1860s but restoration has recaptured the original splendour.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJ8NsDVV4c9ev7_PaWw55t_9M_h-x9hTu29EX-59d5FeSoQmUd-CtRHJ2bzLIsE2Li5MnLkk6Sq8zX7E0wM7PtL7Bt7vj_7FSvlXeL873IbwRAiIsnxUpB9Ee8AMi7fkGCTGHI2ZsRp_FQ5S6SHVXojFXhE2F6pJ9AZvfFDYRj1Tzp6EDi-zTc8p6IQ/s1024/fullsizeoutput_7921-768x1024.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJ8NsDVV4c9ev7_PaWw55t_9M_h-x9hTu29EX-59d5FeSoQmUd-CtRHJ2bzLIsE2Li5MnLkk6Sq8zX7E0wM7PtL7Bt7vj_7FSvlXeL873IbwRAiIsnxUpB9Ee8AMi7fkGCTGHI2ZsRp_FQ5S6SHVXojFXhE2F6pJ9AZvfFDYRj1Tzp6EDi-zTc8p6IQ/w480-h640/fullsizeoutput_7921-768x1024.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing dome in the Rosario chapel</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The convent was occupied by the Army from 1860-1994. In 1972 the Regional Museum of Oaxaca had been founded and after the Army moved out in 1994 over the next four years the whole convent was restored from both public and private funds. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHkhvN8JVK1-RKcnJJkYhH_d5zeb11sR3fVfNkVBiRTpuzXeJpomhSk2wqwEMf_DtH12uf8SMpHrUxp5XZ9hwXi2kulGAktWYbC1_l_GJB3m6xpNTEAw-rT57jTNAQaVIW_baPnxjGylMIK_--yzj48NWpSf7-4MRZnzkwD-W3RZOgaRMOCED5S1baw/s1024/Patio_principal_del_ex-convento_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzman.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHkhvN8JVK1-RKcnJJkYhH_d5zeb11sR3fVfNkVBiRTpuzXeJpomhSk2wqwEMf_DtH12uf8SMpHrUxp5XZ9hwXi2kulGAktWYbC1_l_GJB3m6xpNTEAw-rT57jTNAQaVIW_baPnxjGylMIK_--yzj48NWpSf7-4MRZnzkwD-W3RZOgaRMOCED5S1baw/w640-h480/Patio_principal_del_ex-convento_Santo_Domingo_de_Guzman.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">There is a monumental late Gothic style 2 layer main cloister with fountain and other cloisters. A botanic garden has been set up; the Fray Francisco de Burgoa library plus important ancient artifacts from local archaeological sites. There is a monumental staircase reminiscent of an Austrian abbey (e.g.Gottweig). This must be an extraordinary place to visit!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finally here is a lovely 7 minute video introducing this wonderful building : probably the nearest i shall get to it. I love this building!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qUL8lm0hlww" width="320" youtube-src-id="qUL8lm0hlww"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4390331724656044521.post-5036496861506938552022-08-17T07:36:00.000-07:002022-08-17T07:36:11.635-07:00St Martin in the Fields<p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEmklFnbY8Z0Tg6RVgob3cwfhTPgnZ2QFuhAirukDgd-n6C_PitsT7L75PHx8-c_rvj5LPho3nbP1WDrxeE_Pt8Nlq7_3iy4gK9pLYeaLG1n1G1a-M75n9B22BbWxMFqiyFh6wQ_CahH2OEJCeZbyAjxytcpZ-qaHQu_lAZp42WDwW5ds7-YE_Vb1X2w/s4032/IMG_7398.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEmklFnbY8Z0Tg6RVgob3cwfhTPgnZ2QFuhAirukDgd-n6C_PitsT7L75PHx8-c_rvj5LPho3nbP1WDrxeE_Pt8Nlq7_3iy4gK9pLYeaLG1n1G1a-M75n9B22BbWxMFqiyFh6wQ_CahH2OEJCeZbyAjxytcpZ-qaHQu_lAZp42WDwW5ds7-YE_Vb1X2w/w480-h640/IMG_7398.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">I feel
about St Martin-in-the-Fields rather like I do about Holst’s Planet Suite. It
has always been there and I don’t appreciated it. Familiarity breeds contempt. The
first time I saw it in my teens I don’t suppose I understood it at all. Coming
from Lincolnshire with our rich diet of medieval churches, post Fire of London
churches weren’t quite proper. Over the years I have kept popping in, more
often to the excellent catering in the crypt or for presents in the excellent
shop. Somehow the church didn’t do it for me, as they say. Yet what would
Trafalgar Square be without it? Yes, I guess we all take it for granted but it
is a national treasure – the most photographed London church after St Paul’s
and Westminster Abbey. How many know the name of the architect? No not Wren!
But is it Baroque? If not why am I including it?</span></div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzf1GH_VfXvIKDzbakqUCdDJtnk37kvQLsVc53tyIeeYYV1mbHUbcxvk_PiG-Ope-Hmb0CQSZgndtLNdRKFB_ADTISUSXFS9t5U0UOjOGy_0Vin1x-lfQu9J63sFVPEzldGNyzS6llyFYiZPRpAstE7dkqOe4NLEkjvo9qQRkA2oGwBMNc2xIKFadNw/s4032/IMG_7790.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzf1GH_VfXvIKDzbakqUCdDJtnk37kvQLsVc53tyIeeYYV1mbHUbcxvk_PiG-Ope-Hmb0CQSZgndtLNdRKFB_ADTISUSXFS9t5U0UOjOGy_0Vin1x-lfQu9J63sFVPEzldGNyzS6llyFYiZPRpAstE7dkqOe4NLEkjvo9qQRkA2oGwBMNc2xIKFadNw/w240-h320/IMG_7790.HEIC" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entry to shop and cafe</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> Furthermore since the work of the great vicar Dick Shepherd (1914-26) it can be seen as<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a living church which helps the community, particularly the poor. It is also a major concert venue bringing concerts (often candlelight) to thousands of visitors and Londoners.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>When the
earlier church, which incidentally had been the parish church for the Palace of
Whitehall, became unusable, parishioners hoped they would be able to get a
rebuild under the 1711 Act. When this was unsuccessful they obtained there own
Act to rebuild at their own expense. The chosen architect was James Gibbs
(1682-1754). His previous works had included St Mary le Strand about which I
have already written in great praise. The trouble with Gibbs was that he was a
Scot and Roman Catholic. Born in Aberdeen he had studied under Fontana in Rome
and Roman Baroque had rubbed off on him. (Hurrah). Now he was to show his
versatility to be able to adapt his style to the Protestants of St Martin’s. His
first design was for a 12 pillared round church with long apse. When this
proved too expensive he came up with the present design. In doing so he became
the first British architect to create a Roman temple with giant portico with
tower and steeple sitting on the top.<p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV88aLN80XD_h_osVmHgjFAkmriRXxLC2JK7iEvXqYbsaR7dADPu9Mk8kXC4Le6seeJBreqx2a2kAQUUX264wPtD9nmlilaf9q8vWsGvkrn_wDwTzVXPV0sX8xp0clryN3bBruQoeX2oIS6WHZcEfbM-2-IUXtXUkJ-v2J2hwmnD_LjfYdkzYbdnOdbA/s4032/IMG_7401.HEIC" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV88aLN80XD_h_osVmHgjFAkmriRXxLC2JK7iEvXqYbsaR7dADPu9Mk8kXC4Le6seeJBreqx2a2kAQUUX264wPtD9nmlilaf9q8vWsGvkrn_wDwTzVXPV0sX8xp0clryN3bBruQoeX2oIS6WHZcEfbM-2-IUXtXUkJ-v2J2hwmnD_LjfYdkzYbdnOdbA/w300-h400/IMG_7401.HEIC" width="300" /></a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This
combination has been controversial. John Summerson has written “the incongruity
of the temple-like church and the steeple which rushes through its roof is
undeniable”. Sacheverell Sitwell liked it though “aesthetically the most
successful of all London churches”. I will admit that if one looks at the
front, blocking out the steeple so it becomes a temple and then adding the
steeple that an air of incongruity could be defended. However for most of us we
see the reassuring steeple and the steps of the portico and feel welcomed.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Gibbs was
being eclectic here because he was building in the tradition of Wren,
remembering what he had learnt in Rome and take account of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the current taste for Palladianism. I believe
he produces a personal blend that could satisfy the <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Palladians with their obsession with rules of
perspective ( as for example in the well defined sections of the steeple) and a
template that was readily adaptable elsewhere.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPjibP_qoAfeCuFJky0NGYEWme-7x9Ys-03ukJ3yi9FGrYomzQ7OF1QYV_wIGrK9duhcAGymAKPm56InxrJqTHc4SjPTcd4B2j9NRBZVlVwLu2i8kP2JXuUqDfFPKv9pDsnV_r1KW34SqpgK7gf3F5NOWmQG4eBEAUiDH5gTh7dci6h5e_RjfK9-PDA/s4032/IMG_7796.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPjibP_qoAfeCuFJky0NGYEWme-7x9Ys-03ukJ3yi9FGrYomzQ7OF1QYV_wIGrK9duhcAGymAKPm56InxrJqTHc4SjPTcd4B2j9NRBZVlVwLu2i8kP2JXuUqDfFPKv9pDsnV_r1KW34SqpgK7gf3F5NOWmQG4eBEAUiDH5gTh7dci6h5e_RjfK9-PDA/s320/IMG_7796.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIpGE6lCiI9VhM-QLe855M04sTc1t0kOb9CZ-KE3l0bVqEWxb5V_FI4jzuSGSCICnpWKAQBNLLFL-Q3IAY_8-3C9RZKF6nBMPzPT_Wm9Fa8DvfG4HlNNQ_s4WbEFw7HJ34PMNLfMfjZTZHvAjUcxTLUFJSWfo8ekd91GdTIxgYQ_thgPRrF2nImSMRg/s4032/IMG_7799.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIpGE6lCiI9VhM-QLe855M04sTc1t0kOb9CZ-KE3l0bVqEWxb5V_FI4jzuSGSCICnpWKAQBNLLFL-Q3IAY_8-3C9RZKF6nBMPzPT_Wm9Fa8DvfG4HlNNQ_s4WbEFw7HJ34PMNLfMfjZTZHvAjUcxTLUFJSWfo8ekd91GdTIxgYQ_thgPRrF2nImSMRg/s320/IMG_7799.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOX4YPJIWU5s7K4iM7D3dzBcaIe3RKT40iNz4Dl-dTIy6lqNYhkCx0JdnY9um2zjfaTUkwLk0qjuvYCOS91h8koJdGjYwjgQxTR9erplSMiIYbEN37U44wSzodEbFz6GBkIAjFEatoShKxOXAnhW7ki5FG9v1RDV29rvnevLXh7QDXgrZaNoif7fgJRw/s4032/IMG_7797.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOX4YPJIWU5s7K4iM7D3dzBcaIe3RKT40iNz4Dl-dTIy6lqNYhkCx0JdnY9um2zjfaTUkwLk0qjuvYCOS91h8koJdGjYwjgQxTR9erplSMiIYbEN37U44wSzodEbFz6GBkIAjFEatoShKxOXAnhW7ki5FG9v1RDV29rvnevLXh7QDXgrZaNoif7fgJRw/s320/IMG_7797.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OBPgmx1n5IKAJNPHau5WT5Qla8Rj2Jz1edhHX_JEgDoku74h5Vbx4Y3zsS8xkqSoz-ccBavt5D_pgVoGne-AZdsq6bmwrAoDKt9Q78sZlpG4l5CBohMiPthMso1TFV98m_5Oaakz2QH-7LEx3j_QmPT6MN_V5AaKohoduPthyosI8PeLKklbLu_8iw/s4032/IMG_7798.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OBPgmx1n5IKAJNPHau5WT5Qla8Rj2Jz1edhHX_JEgDoku74h5Vbx4Y3zsS8xkqSoz-ccBavt5D_pgVoGne-AZdsq6bmwrAoDKt9Q78sZlpG4l5CBohMiPthMso1TFV98m_5Oaakz2QH-7LEx3j_QmPT6MN_V5AaKohoduPthyosI8PeLKklbLu_8iw/s320/IMG_7798.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It is then
an updated <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roman temple or basilica. R.
Morrice said “a large galleried hall with highly ornamental vaults over a wide
nave and narrower aisles”. There are no transepts and the chancel is quite
shallow with vestries on both sides. The nave has 5 bays separated by <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>large Corinthian pillars which grow out of the
pews and have their own entablature which seems to dance into the barrel
vaults. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ceilings were by Artari and
Bagutti, the stucco artists Gibbs brought from Italy. They add a touch of rococo
I think and help to make this a joyful building. Galleries were felt to be necessary
in the early 18<sup>th</sup> century so that congregations could see and hear
the sermons. Gibbs didn’t like galleries (or fixed pews) because they broke up
the aesthetics of the interiors. However here at St Martins he did his best to play
down their effect. The curved end of the gallery near the chancel creates an
almost Bernini type effect.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnT-ALHgSTwQdPRYRxO_qzfx9biHSlmYd3V7MS6fgGcfxb_VUGZxPYw6bR0ty2jAtqjmxWGVWBikiXDdL3h71opxLBMUxL08DcopLZq3cNxck5qRKVo7adbPrFTV8-4uRRXdVxJx46Wwdt8oH_sNje6FrWYnBORUXh8g6bMSzXhuBe0odm09RDLYNmtw/w300-h400/IMG_7808.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceilings by Artari and Bagutti</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxRe-qyFURkAhUmymuUs_8SdvwVQFOGiky6ThKjdezhXssE_VdkG4r2qFJdlQKiQ9v5nkXKA0P8nSqlyuroUV0Pkd6D34vJnRnuR5esgZczEuVneFNj3DnugJKoHKn6I76IPjW7zrQR9c3ye8VayqNqsBx2ArFxEDKJqRPLE14NOz1VDzCHmEhE_Y8g/s4032/IMG_7807.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxRe-qyFURkAhUmymuUs_8SdvwVQFOGiky6ThKjdezhXssE_VdkG4r2qFJdlQKiQ9v5nkXKA0P8nSqlyuroUV0Pkd6D34vJnRnuR5esgZczEuVneFNj3DnugJKoHKn6I76IPjW7zrQR9c3ye8VayqNqsBx2ArFxEDKJqRPLE14NOz1VDzCHmEhE_Y8g/s320/IMG_7807.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfRRhmv7FXl7y8RD-g8UFfNrfeFBDqYxAa2gRcFbxdguDzgAhS5MAynmAGeO6hQbys4Mkb6YZymntZosAWJjG3WGcB_zcoY6-t9PE1ysut1Jfc9mdmofKURP2dfd3x4rn-VCiJxLQPeNJPL_ri66hsshXmrkVx54SJeUuU20pw5dl40JpSSp2wyfQGQ/s4032/IMG_7804.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfRRhmv7FXl7y8RD-g8UFfNrfeFBDqYxAa2gRcFbxdguDzgAhS5MAynmAGeO6hQbys4Mkb6YZymntZosAWJjG3WGcB_zcoY6-t9PE1ysut1Jfc9mdmofKURP2dfd3x4rn-VCiJxLQPeNJPL_ri66hsshXmrkVx54SJeUuU20pw5dl40JpSSp2wyfQGQ/s320/IMG_7804.HEIC" width="240" /></a><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhss3vq4cVz8NpfwsRXY3Sw24W8x_tJwxiyYFt5AidDJ2JGRmQrjDrRfc52o-SP91274J2zsuyvXIUHsutFuD0BL4pH1VEJlEmly9hWxitk2gzQ00s_7ykW47sW-inhA5TpdYKPFkCXD24YJecIY0pDUfrEdhXZ_ei7xOjw28Z3wnp2LP_01aT9y8I4fw/s4032/IMG_7805.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhss3vq4cVz8NpfwsRXY3Sw24W8x_tJwxiyYFt5AidDJ2JGRmQrjDrRfc52o-SP91274J2zsuyvXIUHsutFuD0BL4pH1VEJlEmly9hWxitk2gzQ00s_7ykW47sW-inhA5TpdYKPFkCXD24YJecIY0pDUfrEdhXZ_ei7xOjw28Z3wnp2LP_01aT9y8I4fw/s320/IMG_7805.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So what has
made this the single most influential Georgian church? The answer lies first in
its simplicity and versatility. It is also attractive and almost playful in
style, (compare it to any of Hawksmoor’s designs). It had the advantage of being
in an aristocratic area, capped in 1828 when it became a focal point of the new
Trafalgar Square. Finally, Gibbs was a good self publicist and his 1728 Book of
Architecture was very influential. First to the Palladian architect <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Flitcroft’s nearby St Giles-in-the-Fields the
influence spread throughout England Scotland and North America.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Do go take
another look : you won’t be disappointed!</span></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQVDY0jSMenJHUImmxcVwYDuUtS3h1XTRs6p5Q3vBDFuOaZiPYjzS7d7lZXEK2_FX-K90MvYakyMAlmkXUXa8eBcDANrDFXYTGq3m05bqFm2IW6HtDzakATzLJmxhZ1xI6CgxnUlgIr1hcoWEG3PfQ9zevfKk3x7HhBmG1CtXiGiQtnJCmmt5GJU8mA/s4032/IMG_6008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQVDY0jSMenJHUImmxcVwYDuUtS3h1XTRs6p5Q3vBDFuOaZiPYjzS7d7lZXEK2_FX-K90MvYakyMAlmkXUXa8eBcDANrDFXYTGq3m05bqFm2IW6HtDzakATzLJmxhZ1xI6CgxnUlgIr1hcoWEG3PfQ9zevfKk3x7HhBmG1CtXiGiQtnJCmmt5GJU8mA/w480-h640/IMG_6008.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><o:p><br /></o:p><p></p>Peter Godwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14407369904412497192noreply@blogger.com0