Durnstein

 

Durnstein Castle has a certain pull for English visitors because it was likely here that bad Archduke Leopold of Austria held our King Richard the Lionheart to ransom after the Third Crusade. We only clambered up there once on the first day. After that the attractions of  Durnstein  Pfarrkirche were much more attractive. Situated on the Danube it is such a charming place and a fantastic base to explore the Wachau, by bike in those days....

The priory was founded in 1410 standing on a rock overlooking the river Danube. It was Prior Ubelbacher who had the existing roof and ridge turret pulled down and       commissioned J.Prandtauer, Josef Munggenast and Matthias Steinl, and stuccoist Santino Bussi. The south portal is by Steinl with statuary of the Divine virtues with vigilance and strength done in 1718.The Priory courtyard was probably designed by Prandtauer.

The entrance to the church  by Matthias Steinl has the Four fathers of the Church and Christ Our Saviour  above.

The tower is the most memorable part of the exterior. It dates from 1733, richly ornamented with putti, obelisks and balustrades and is by Steinl and Mungennast. The blue and white decor is so memorable from the river/It is probably the finest Baroque tower in Austria. It seems to grow out of the terrace, almost like a tree trun                                                                                                                                  

The interior of the church is intimate and there are over 100 angels present ; the walls are curving and above them stucco reliefs of the Annunciation, Nativity, the Magi and the Resurrection.The stucco ornament on the ceiling is by Bussi. The high altar tabernacle is unusually  a globe. There are fine choir stalls with gilded scenes from the Te Deum.

On the south side of the church on the site of an old cloister there is a Christmas altar and a baroque setting for the Good Friday Holy Sepulchre, by Antonio Galli-Bibiena. 

Loreto, Prague

 The Loreto shrine in Prague was built in Baroque style from 1626 and kept being extended and embellished until 1750. It was originally funded by Benigna Katerina Lobkiwicz. The Santa Casa Holy House is a replica of the one at Loreto in Italy. The Loreto Santa Casa comes from the belief that the Virgin Mary's House in Nazareth  was transported miraculously to Loreto in Italy in 1278. The original architect in Prague of the chapel and cloister was Giovanni Battista Orsi. A second storey was added to the cloister by Kilian Dientzenhofer and the facade by him and his father Krystof. This includes the belfry with its 30 bells. This is played from a keyboard - 27 bells can sound. See the little video below.

The Church of the Nativity of Our Lord is again by Krystof and Kilian Dientzehhofer, with ceiling frescos by Vaclav Reiner(1698-1743)and Johann Schopf.(1702-1772). It was consecrated in 1737 and finished 1738.

                     Exterior in the snow CC BY-SA 3.0

CC BY-SA 4.0   Rfinkels

 

Santa Maria della Salute, Venice

Classic view of the Grand Canal by Canaletto

 This great church is a symbol of Venice, in countless photos of the Grand Canal, pivotal. But who designed it and why? The Republic decided on 22 October 1630. to build a votive church to celebrate the end of the Plague which had killed a third of the population . It would be dedicated to Our Lady. It was a key site and would symbolise the rebirth of the city. Eleven projects were presented. Among the criteria the building "had to harmonise with the site and had to make a grand impression." The winner was Baldassare Longhena, (1598-1682) whose design with its opulence formed a direct conrast to the nearby Redentore built 50 years earlier. Work began in 1631 but did not end until 1681, just a year before Longhena died.

BY-SA 2.0 Murray Foubister

The octagonal design is set on a platform of steps  and resembles a crown, the crown of Mary, Queen of Heaven. 

Longhena wrote 

I have created a church in the form of a rotunda, a work of new invention, not built in Venice, a work very worthy and desired by Pmany. This church, having the mystery of its dedication, being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, made me think, with what little talent God has bestowed upon me of building the church in the ... shape of a crown.

John Varriano "Italian Baroque and Rococo architecture (1986) says the design " is among the most ingenious of the 17th  century" and "can justifiably be called th first major Baroque church in Italy". The octagonal plan harks back to Early Christian Churches like San Vitale in Ravenna.However, the most important influence on Longhena was Palladio. E,g.The transverce sanctuary recalls the Redentore Church.

There are two domes and two bell towers. Six chapels protrude from the octagon and the entrance facade has Palladian elements. A first impression is of many statues in niches and a flock of angels and saints standing around the roofs up to the great central cupola.

Looking toward te high altar

The interior is spacious with the six chapels leading off and opposite the entrance a large presbtery with side apses covered by a smaller cupola. The main altar was designed by Longhena and now includes the 12 03 13th century Byzantine icon Madonna and Child known as Panagia Mesopantitissa. It was brought to Venice in from Candia (Heraklion, Crete) after it fell to the Turks in 1669.

The Senate of the Republic decreed that every year on 21 November there would be a special service to commemorate the deliverance from the \Plague where a procession would proceed from St Mark's square to the church across a specially constructed pontoon bridge. This still takes place today. Tat's three weeks time - alas we can't go this year.

San Xavier del Bac, Arizona

 

CC BY-SA 4.0 Keyany

Back in 2005 we visited Arizona. Tucson Old Studios were a major pull for me because I have been mad about the Wild West since childhood. Highlight in the studios museum for me was to see Hoss Cartright's hat as used in Bonanza! I digress - the same day I think we went down to see this old church. I must admit I was disappointed. Restoration was going on and the church interior was not in a good state. I believe it is much improved now. Alas no mobile or camera so the pictures below are not mine.

The original San Xavier del Bac Mission was founded in 1692 by Father Eusabio Kino, an Italian Jesuit. It was populated by the Papagos, who were agricultural - growing corn, beans, squash. The Spanish added wheat and different beans.  Cattle and horses, originally from Spain were introduced. The first church was begun in 1700. Kino was unable to stay at Bac and died in 1711. He was a great explorer and missionary. The first resident priest was Father Francisco Gonzalvo but only for a year. Apaches raided the Mission and there was a Pima uprising in 1751 during which the first church was probably destroyed.  Father Alonso Espinosa built a new church in 1756 just west of the present one. He ordered "a head and hands of Saint Xavier with a body frame resembling the statue in Vera Cruz" from Mexico City in 1763. It may be the statue we see today above the main altar./ Soon after in 1767 King Charles expelled the Jesuits from the Spanish Empire, so the Franciscans took over the Missions.

 

Cc BY-SA 3.0 Recline

The first Franciscan sent to Bac was Father Francisco Tomas Garces in 1768. It was a trying time with more Apache raids.The present church was begun under Father Juan Bautista Velderrain in 1783. He did not live to see it completed in 1797. The designer is unknown.. Only one of the towers was ever completed and it is crowned with a dome and lantern. The other or right hand tower was not finished perhaps to avoid paying a tax to the Crown for a completed church. There is a narrow enclosed plaza in front of the church with small mortuary chapel to the left. The facade is covered with lime plaster and painted white. The central section is richly decorated with swirling volutes, shells, canopied figures in a soft red. The plan is cruciform with a large dome on a drum over the central crossing. The interior decoration was likely carried out by local Indians superintended by Spanish artists and friars.

Interior of the Church   (National Park Service)

After the Mexican War of 1846-8 it remained in Mexico and it was only after the so-called Gadsden purchase of 1853 did it come into the USA and the diocese of Santa Fe.  An earthquake severely damaged the church in 1887 followed by major repairs in 1905, and lightning strikes in 1939 of the west tower. Restoration has continued ever since and today the San Xavier del Bac Church "White Dove of the Desert" attracts thousands of visitors.

Take a tour with the little video below

Creative Commons CC BY-SA 3.0 Aznaturalist

Gottweig Abbey

 My memories of Gottweig are of arriving by bicycle totally out of breath, for it is a hilly area and it was a beautiful hot day. We were staying in Durnstein (more of this in a later post) and hired bikes to ride along the Danube. It was one of our best holidays ever. We could see this celestial city or whatever it was from afar and upon arrival it seemed even more majestic. I had been here a few years previously by car but the bike approach was infinitely superior, if painful. 

Gottweig Abbey had been founded in the 11th century as a monastery for Canons Regular by Altmann, Bishop of Passau. Things didn't go well and laxity caused Bishop Ulrich of Passau to get Pope Urban II to agree to make a foundatiobn for Benedictine monks under the Rule of St Benedict. Prior Hartmann of St Blaise's Abbey was made Abbot and things improved. Gottweig became a famed place of learning. Abbot Hartmann (1094-1114) founded a monastic school, a library and a nunnery which started at the foot of the hill, and was later moved to the top and still going until 1557. Decline set in by the 15th and 16th centuries and by 1564 there no monks at all. Then there was a major fire in 1580.Michael Herrlich  was brought over from Melk to become the new Abbot. He brought it back to life financially and spiritually and began a rebuild. Gottweig survived the 17th century satisfactorily until a major fire in 1718. Abbot Gottfried Bessel (1714-49) was responsible for the grand rebuild we see today to the designs of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt.

Hildebradt's vision was for possibly the grandest Imperial Baroque complex ever built. The fact that it was never completed does not lessen its significance as the epitomy of  Counter Reformation Imperial pretension. Abbot Bessel  had connections with the Schonborn family and hence Hildebrandt became the chosen architect. The Schonborns saw it as their very own project. Hildebrandt was a big expert on fortifications and he used this in his design.  The plan involved parts of the old monastery, with huge bastioned fortifications a large domed church in the centre and state rooms led off two grand staircases The accommodation was clearly vastly in excess of what was required by the Abbey. Apparently the design was to suggest a crown on the landscape  In practice Hildebrandt's plans were just too expensive and we are left with a huge torso. The best remnant is the tremendous staircase with a ceiling by Paul Troger of the apotheosis of Emperor Charles VI. The Escorial of Philip II of Spain was an inspiration : Gottweig is like a palace with the church in the centre. Its like the fortrress of God. This was the high water mark of he Austrian Empire, The Turks had been repulsed. There would be a Kaiserstiege amd a Kaisersaal in such a building.The emphasis of the links between and Crown and church to provide a common enterprise of Godly rule.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Church facade  CC BY-SA 2.5 Tschaensky

                                                                                                                                                                       The Church facade has a classical feel. The interior has a 4 bay basilica with narrower higher chancel. The organ screen at the back of the nave is unusual but over large. The colour scheme of blue gold brown dates from the 19th century and is not to everyone's taste.

Today there are some 150,000 books and manuscripts in the Library and a significant collection of religious engravings and various antiquities. It still houses a Benedictine congregation of around 30 members.

Finally, go on a little tour with the video below. Easier than ascending by bike....

San Andrea al Quirinale, Rome

 I am ashamed to say that  I missed out on this Church on 5 visits to Rome and only got in there last time in 2006.   I cannot wait to return. I realise now its key importance in so much of what I have been posting about for years. I can see where the Asam brothers came from.. 

The entrance                 CC BY-SA 4.0 Architas

San Andrea al Quirinale was commissioned by Cardinal Camillo Pamphilj for novices of the Jesuit Order. It was built 1658-70. Space was limited and Bernini used an oval design with the longer axis parallel to the street. As you enter from the street the entrance is framed by two large Corinthian pilasters supporting a triangular pediment, and in front of these a  semicircular portico raised on two Ionic columns surmounted by the Pamphilj coat-of-arms. 

 
Upon entry attention is drawn straight upon the  highaltar : St Andrew is being drawn up to Heaven. The architecture, the painting, the sculptures, the light, everything serves Bernini's aim - the effect is theatrical yet devotional also. The picture of the martyrdom of St Andrew behind the high altar  by Giuglielmo Cortese receives strong light from an invisible dome. A life size stucco statue of the saint by Antonio Raggi hovers over the broken pediment in front of the high altar. He is looking up toward the gilt stucco heavenly host who are awaiting him at the top of the dome round the edge of the lantern. Further above the dove of the Holy Spirit sheds  gilt rays.

St Andrew rises to Heaven   CC BY-SA 4.0 Rickcarmickle

The attention has been drawn to the altar because in this oval design there are pilasters at the ends of the transverse axis : had there been chapels the onlooker would have not felt compelled to focus on the high altar. Colour is used with great subtlety and skill. Below we have the multi-coloured dark marble ; white .and gold in the heavenly sphere in the dome. 

Floor plan (Creative Commons Afernand74) 

(1) Main entrance, (2) Chapel of Saint Francis Xavier, (3) Chapel of the Passion, (4) Chapel Saint Stanislas Kostka, (5) Chapel of Saint Ignatius of Loyola, (6) Main altar , (7) Entrance to novitiate and access to the rooms of Saint Stanislas Kostka.s 

St Andrew by Raggi  CC BY-SA4.0 Alvesgaspar

Finally I strongly recommend the page cited below and the little video, which gives an excellent intodution.

Cite this page as: Dr. Steven Zucker and Dr. Beth Harris, "Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Sant’Andrea al Quirinale, Rome," in Smarthistory, July 19, 2015, accessed October 30, 2023, https://smarthistory.org/bernini-santandrea-al-quirinale/.

Santa Efigenia, Ouro Preto

 

This church was built  1734- 1785 for the Confraternity of the Rosary.  This served local  black persons, free or slave. Originally they had met at the Igreja Matrtiz de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao de Antonio Dias. AS the town grew they decided to build their own church and this became Santa Efigenia. A freed slave Chico Rei and his comrades built it with gold extracted from the Encardideira mine. Legend says that some slaves hid the gold in their hair and washed it out in the church and used it for church purposes. 

The plan of the church is a rectangle with no aisles along the nave. The facade differs from many in the town and has a semicircular cornice above the central window and there is a niche above the door containing the soapstone  statue of Our Lady of the Rosary, by Aleijandindo.  Manuel Francisco Lisbao, Aleijadinho's father supplied the wood for the construction and  supervised carvings in the church by Francisco Xavier de Brito.  The carving shows signs of black African practice especiall   on the main altar with imagets of shells, snails, and  horns. The ceiling is painted and images include  the Four Doctors of the Church and a black Pope. The

The church was closed in 2008 for 6 years for major restoration.