Sunday 5 August 2018

St Stephen Walbrook, London

This  church in the very centre of the city of London is regarded by many to be the greatest by Sir Christopher Wren, after St Paul's Cathedral. It is not particularly inspirng from without. Indeed the noted architectural writer T. Francus Bumpus wrote "Never was so rich a jewel in so poor a setting, so sweet a kernel in so poor a husk" The tower and steeple are vfine though and one of his last creations. Wren lavished a deao of care on this church for he lived next door!
Next to the Mansion House, it is   easy to overlook this masterpiece

This church has always been surrounded and in the very centre of things. The original building was Saxon, probably 8th century. It stood on the east bank of the Wal Brook stream - now gone underground and one of London's lost rivers.  The church was rebuilt on the west bank of the stream about 1430 only to be destroyed in the Great Fire in 1666. The rebuilding by Wren in 1672-80 was one of the earliest and largest of his city churches.
Exterior with "carbuncle"



Whoops! Another carbuncle : coffee again! What is it aboutr coffee in the early 21st century that we have to have so many outlets?

Model without carbuncles or Starbucks

Entrance with steep steps and wondeful surrise at the top

Inside is all lightness and to me, a sense of joy and celebration. I am never totally sure about the Moore altar brought in during Lord Palumbro's sponsorship 1978-87/ It has been described as a ripe Camembert cheese! As I believe camembert to be one of mankind's greatest invertions I ought to like it!  I do not like reredoses like the one here though - original or not! Brings out the Catholic in me!
The dome is simply magnificent and is the first of  its kind in any English church. I could try to describe it but the technical words would not come easily and  not convey the splendour : nor do photos. This is a three dimensional  joy that you have to see for yourself! Wonder how many tourusts miss it!

The best way to experience this wonderful place is to go to a concert there - organ recitals are common (only getting 30 or so audience - how sad) or just walk round and round enjoying the changing spatial effects.  Sir John Vanbrugh is buried here and a plaque tells you that John Dunstable was buried in the old church in 1453 - maybe the greatest composer in Europe at that time,                       
In the reordering and restoration after the last War the new altar by Henry Moore was intruced

Central altar with new pews. Note old reredos where old altar stood

Into the dome

rear viedw to organ and entrance door

Pulpit




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