I had heard about the two churches joined together like Siamese twins with a house between them. Some have mistaken them for one church. Others have been content with the huge tiled external side wall. The usual explanation is that there were congregations of Carmelites ; male and female, and the buildings were to be separate. The gap between was filled in by a house occupied by a canon. Certainly one of the sights of Porto. My first glimpse included a peep into the left hand church (not as a tourist) on a rainy afternoon.
For our return early one morning later in the week we were fired up to see a unique labyrinthine museum complex jampacked with art and interest for 3.50 Euros. As they say in guides "Highly recommended". I expect most tourists in Porto come in out of curiosity and maybe don't make the artistic heights of Santa Clara or Sao Francisco. For me this was why I had to come to Porto.
The left hand church or Carmelitas was built 1619-1628 for the Carmelite nuns and externally is Classical, with window frames and a broken pediment that suggest Dutch influence. Internally it was not completed until around 1650. The convent is now occupied by the Republican National Guard. The church is very much in use, see the little video below with welcoming words from a local priest.
On my return my first impression, pushing the entrance door leading off the narthex entry area, was confirmed : a golden vision leading to the stepped altar so popular in Portugal. These altars can have a statue at the top and at first reminded me of a wedding cake. Mea culpa! This high altar was designed by Joaquim Teixeira de Guimaraes and built by Jose Teixeira Guimaraes. This and six side chapels are resplendent with fine Baroque or Rococo carving. The interior is saved from being too dark and overpowering by the white ceiling and large windows. Alas I did not chance to hear the organ to add to this atmospheric space. The biggest surprise was in the sacristy behind the high altar. Beautiful woodwork and ceiling painting - in fact outstanding and I have been unable to find any reference to it yet. I think it is 17th century original. Sacheverell Sitwell would have loved it!
This is a ten minute walk around giving some impression
of what it is like
Stepped high altar
Recently restored organ not heard....
This video includes quick whistlestop tour including sacristy
The amazing sacristy
The truly amazing sacristy
The right hand church or Carmo is by Jose Figueiredo Seixas in Rococo style 1756-68 and built for the men of the Carmelite Third Order .Seixas was a pupil of Nicolau Nasoni, the Italian born giant of North Portuguese Baroque. There are seven guilded altars by sculptor Francisco Pereira Campanha. Again there is an overwhelming stepped high altar, this time surmounted by the Crucified Christ.
The external azulejo tiles were produced in Vila Nova de Gaia to designs by Silvestro Silvestri in 1912. The dramatic scene shows the foundation of the Carmelite order on Mount Carmel.
Carmo Church exterior
Azulejo tiles from 1912 showing foundation of the Carmelite Order
Azulejo tiles from 1912 showing foundation of the Carmelite Order
General view with stepped high altar
High altar
The unique feature of this site is the connecting house. The plan below shows the right hand or Carmon church. The tiled external wall is #10 on the plan. The house is on the left with thin little rooms which go up several storeys. See the four little photos below.
For me the most bizarre room in the gouse included an opening into the Carmo church to allow the worshipper to kiss the foot of the image.
Finally we toured the Camelite Third Order Museum whic is behind the Carmo Church
No comments:
Post a Comment