Thursday 26 October 2023

San Francisco Quito


 The convent of San Francisco in Quito has been described as the largest architectural complex in South America : the Escorial of the New World. Covering 3.5 hectares it has 13 cloisters, 6 churches, 3 chapels and a large atrium. It was the first monastery in South America, started in 1533 a month after the start of the Spanish occupation of Quito. There are some 3000 colonial art works and it had the best library in the 16th century Viceroyalty of Peru. I hesitate to swear to all these assertions, but if size is important this place deserves a place on this blog. I can agree that the facade may be the finest Renaissance exterior in South America and the exuberant Baroque interiors are outstanding.








                                                Get the atmosphere with this video




The main cloister was built 1553-81 and forms a 2 storied grey stone arcade  with whitewashed arches. A fountain and palm trees in the centre complete this as a centre for contemplation and prayer. It would have been open to the public sometimes. King Philip II of Spain himself paid for the roofing of the church in 1553. Possibly the architect of the facade of the church was Benito de Morales a military architect  or Alonso de Aguiar, a master of works.

An earthquake destroyed the facade  towers in 1755 sending them onto the nave roof destroying the ceiling. A new ceiling was done under Esteban Guzman in 1769 with updating of the interior throughout the 18t century. In the decoration the rules of symmetry are forgotten as gilt scrolls leap up the arches of the nave, adorn the pilasters by the side of statues, and spread over ceilings. There are golden sunbeams in the ceiling which join with encrusted  mirrors in the altar to add sparkle. The pulpit altar and clerestory feature twisted columns, garlands and angelic beings. Quito always had a desire for splendour and here it is at a zenith.


The choir stalls in their recessed position date from the early 17th century. There are 62 choir stalls of  cedar wood and each seat has a saint polychromed and gilded at the top of the seat back.

The San Bonaventura Chapel is on the site of the original church put up by Fra Jodoco Ricke, a Fleming from Ghent. He taught the locals to use ploughs drawn by oxen and to read and write. He also founded the Colegio de San Andres. This used to train the sons of local Indian dignatories to participate in Church services, play  musical instruments, including organ, and to do sculpture and painting. This led to the sculpture school of Bernardo Legada (a mestizo)  with its large workshop and many apprentices, flourishing in the first half of the 18th century. This was the famous Quito School   with the well known Manuel Chili or "Rough Face." (1723-96).




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