San Xavier del Bac, Arizona

 

CC BY-SA 4.0 Keyany

Back in 2005 we visited Arizona. Tucson Old Studios were a major pull for me because I have been mad about the Wild West since childhood. Highlight in the studios museum for me was to see Hoss Cartright's hat as used in Bonanza! I digress - the same day I think we went down to see this old church. I must admit I was disappointed. Restoration was going on and the church interior was not in a good state. I believe it is much improved now. Alas no mobile or camera so the pictures below are not mine.

The original San Xavier del Bac Mission was founded in 1692 by Father Eusabio Kino, an Italian Jesuit. It was populated by the Papagos, who were agricultural - growing corn, beans, squash. The Spanish added wheat and different beans.  Cattle and horses, originally from Spain were introduced. The first church was begun in 1700. Kino was unable to stay at Bac and died in 1711. He was a great explorer and missionary. The first resident priest was Father Francisco Gonzalvo but only for a year. Apaches raided the Mission and there was a Pima uprising in 1751 during which the first church was probably destroyed.  Father Alonso Espinosa built a new church in 1756 just west of the present one. He ordered "a head and hands of Saint Xavier with a body frame resembling the statue in Vera Cruz" from Mexico City in 1763. It may be the statue we see today above the main altar./ Soon after in 1767 King Charles expelled the Jesuits from the Spanish Empire, so the Franciscans took over the Missions.

 

Cc BY-SA 3.0 Recline

The first Franciscan sent to Bac was Father Francisco Tomas Garces in 1768. It was a trying time with more Apache raids.The present church was begun under Father Juan Bautista Velderrain in 1783. He did not live to see it completed in 1797. The designer is unknown.. Only one of the towers was ever completed and it is crowned with a dome and lantern. The other or right hand tower was not finished perhaps to avoid paying a tax to the Crown for a completed church. There is a narrow enclosed plaza in front of the church with small mortuary chapel to the left. The facade is covered with lime plaster and painted white. The central section is richly decorated with swirling volutes, shells, canopied figures in a soft red. The plan is cruciform with a large dome on a drum over the central crossing. The interior decoration was likely carried out by local Indians superintended by Spanish artists and friars.

Interior of the Church   (National Park Service)

After the Mexican War of 1846-8 it remained in Mexico and it was only after the so-called Gadsden purchase of 1853 did it come into the USA and the diocese of Santa Fe.  An earthquake severely damaged the church in 1887 followed by major repairs in 1905, and lightning strikes in 1939 of the west tower. Restoration has continued ever since and today the San Xavier del Bac Church "White Dove of the Desert" attracts thousands of visitors.

Take a tour with the little video below

Creative Commons CC BY-SA 3.0 Aznaturalist