Obermarchtal

This has become a special post. Initially it was going to be short and just mention the church. Our visit was short. The more I have dug the more I have discovered. (Rococo organ, best bells in Souoth Germany ? Amazing chapter house and summer refectoryObermarchtal is a lovely and remarkable place. When we visited in summer 2017 we were in a tent at Sigmaringen - and in fact about to move into a hotel in that town because of a threatening weather forecast. If only we had know we could have come here and stayed in a real Baroque monastery! The countryside roundabout is delightful too. Next year perhaps...

It was to be August 2019 and we stayed in a flat in the Petrushof, an 18th century house just outside the abbey wall, and which was occupied by the master builder. 

This Premonstratensian foundation of 1171 on the Danube is 23 miles from Ulm. It was badly damaged in the Thirty Years War and rebuilt in the late 17th century. Abbot Nikolaus Wierith (reigned 1661-1691) was the instigator. Finally modifications were made 1747-57 under the direction of Johann Caspar Bagnato After the secularisation in 1803 it was taken over by the Princes of Thurn and Taxis, and only recently bought by the diocese of Rottenburg-Stuttgart in 1973. It has been used as a school and  teacher-training establishment.It is now a conference centre and hotel and parish church.

We should go again because we missed out on seeing the superb woodwork from 1703 in the Chapter House and the the Summer Refectory with stucco by Francesco Pozzi and paintings by Joseph Ignaz Appiani. - both rooms make Obermarchtal famous. And we still haven't seen these in 2019 because it was August when no-one is in the school which is housed there now. Perhaps next time....?

Chapter house

Summer refectory

The complex features a large early Baroque church ,which projects out from the monastic complex., by Michael Thumb (c1640-1690), likely based on plans of the Jesuit architect Heinrich Meyer. (1636-1692). After Michael Beer's death the work continues under his brother Christian Thumb and the younger Franz Beer.The towers at the east end are an unusual feature  and the church as a whole is very imposing and dates from 1686-92.

Pulpit and opposite shows wall pillars

The interior is historically important as it is an early example of the Vorarlberg type - deep wall pillars and the galleries above. The interior is dominated by white stucco of the early Wessobrunn school, contrasting well with brown furnishings and altars. The stucco is designed and executed under the Wessobrunn master Johann Schmuzer  (1642-1701). The mighty high altar dates from 1698 and as the centre with four altars in the transept and seven on the pilasters in the nave makes up what is sometimes called the "Theatrum sacrum".

I always try to find some music from each of the buildings I write about. Here ii is by the local monk Isfrid Kayser (1712-1771). He produced psalms, cantatas, masses and instrumental music some of which has found its way onto Youtube. Here is an organ transcription of his Overture in B flat played by Thorsten Pirkl.

The rococo organ is from 1778-80 by Johann Nepomuk Holzhey from Ottobeuren ; last restored 2010-12, The video below is from a local Organ event. It gives a good idea of the scope of the organ, the view, and layout of the building.
While in Obermarchtal I came across a crowd of tourists doing an organ crawl of the area. It tended to confirm my usual view that organists are invariably mad!

The main Holzhey organ

Nor did we hear the bellsin 2018! I grew up with the sound of church bells in south Lincolnshire. I always love to hear the bells in south Germany echoing through the mountains. But Obermarchtal is something else ! The 13 bells are one of the most important historical peals in Germany. The two oldest ones predate the baroque church. Do listen to some of the recording below. It is very special I think and we heard them in 2019.

                                                    Superb baroque woodwork

Stucco work above nave

                                                 

High altar

Modern portative organ in choir

Siessen, Monastery Church of St Mark

Siessen was a discovery : a large monastic type complex in southern Baden Wurttemberg populated even today by nuns. We saw a singing workshop and I have a souvenir organ score bought from their shop.  

This foundation began as a a Dominican nun foundation in the 13th century ; was severely damaged by the Swedes in the Thirty Years War - a familar story for these parts ; the monastery buildings rebuilt under the Vorarlberg master Franz Beer 1716-22 ; dissolved in 1803 ; became home of the Siessen Franciscan nuns from 1860 right through to  today (except for temporary expulsion under Hitler).

The Zimmermann brothers were involved in the design and decoration of the church 1726-9 and it was consecrated in 1733. 

The choirs where the nuns sat for services  were built one above the other :  the summer choir  above the winter.

After the Second World War substantial restoration removed some 19th century alterations so that the building we see today is nearer the 18th century original.Frescos in the summer choir were by Johann Baptist Zimmermann. Renovation 2002-3 saw further changes and the installation of late roccoco style pulpit, 2 side altars and a main altar. 

My overriding impression remains the white stucco and the beauty of the fresco cycle. The photos below capture the flavour of the place.

 

Winter choir below and summer choir above.

Bad Schussenried

I had heard of this place and was looking forward to a visit. The pictures had showed a huge complex. We were not disappointed.The fantastic Baroque pews in the church, the wonderful library, and the fascinating museum are uppermost in my memory. I am so pleased to be able to share our photos.

The abbey was founded from Rot an der Rot in 1183 by the local landowners Berengar and Konrad of Schussenried. Pope Innocent III granted it protection and immunity in 1211. From there it received substantial endowments thereby building up territory and it was declared an Imperial Abbey in 1440. There was great fire damage in the Thirty Years War and the lands were laid waste by the marauding Swedes. 

Recovery followed and by the 18th century a rebuild was in progress. Dominikus Zimmermann produced a plan for four wings with an integrated church. This was never completed because of lack of funds. The present three winged abbey has a north wing plus stumps of the intended east and west wings - about a third of the planned complex! 

After 1803 the abbey and its lands passed to the Counts of Sternberg-Manderscheid to compensate them for their lossed west of the Rhine.They used it as their castle. Then the territory passed to the King of Wurttemberg and the Counts sold them the buildings in 1835. In 1875 a nursing home was establised and until 1997 this was the State Psychiatric Hospital of Bad Schussenried. Since 1998 an exhibition and event centre has been set up.

The magnificent library features lockable bookcases in two storeys. The ornamentation is outstanding. The fantastic ceiling fresco is by Franz Georg Hermann (1757) of the Divine Wisdom with apocalypse, scholarship, education and craft. Included in the fresco is the famous Canon Caspar Mohr (1575-1625)with his feathered flying machine. Caspar was something of a genius. Apparently he was painter, carpenter, gardener, locksmith, blacksmith, musician, organ builder and watchmaker. He went away to study theology in Rome, and also acted as prior at Schussenried. His main claim to fame however was the flying machine. His foot-operated flying machine was to work by body movement.For this purpose he strapped wings of goose feathers on his back, which were connected by strings with his feet. With loops, he held the wings to his hands so he could swing like a bird. The abbot begged him not to jump from his third floor of the monastery. Anyway whatever spectacular aviatic activities he undertook he die on a spa stay in Jebenhausen in 1625!

The Abbey church is now the parish church of St Magnus. Part Romanesque and part Baroque it features magnificent walnut stalls by Georg Anton Macheln (1685-1739) which he undertook in 1715-1717. The ceiling frescos of the life of St Norbert of Xanten are by Johannes Zick. St Norbert was the founder of the Premonstatensian order, which occupied the Abbey 1512-1803.

The Library set out for a concert. Note organ in the gallery.

Another shot of the Library

Love that organ

            Throne of King Solomon            Theology

                                                     Rhetoric  Caspar Mohr hovers above blue figures

Apocalyse in centre

Imagine you were performing!

The exquisite lockable two storey bookcases....

18th century Choir monks in full regalia

The Museum was very spectacular and featured a display about how the 18th century monk lived.

Refreshment and reading....

Can't make this out but I like the image

Abbot's dwelling and guest  room

Worship

18th century Choir stalls in Church of St Magnus

Detail of choir stall

Scenes from life of St Norbert by Johannes Zick

Nave of St Magnus

 

Choir with the famous stalls

Carmelite Priory Church of the Annunciation Mdina, Malta

The landscape of Malta is  unforgettable for the prevalence of Catholic Church buildings - many if them with domes : each one vying to outdo its neighbour. The old capital, Mdina, is inland and a formidable defensive sight,  again dominated by domes. 

My memory is less of the large cathedral and more of the smaller churches : particularly this Carmelite church. This had real atmosphere for me. Built between 1660 and 1675  it may have been the first oval church on the island. Probably designed by Mederoico Blondel des Croisettes (1628-1698) a French military engineer. It was used by the Cathedral Chapter after the 1693 earthquake while the Cathedral was being rebuilt. It was damaged during the Napoleonic Wars. It has now been superbly restored and visitors can enjpy the spectacular dome and choir painting by artists including Mattia Preti, Stefano Eradi, Micehele Bellanti and Giuseppe Cali.

   

St Stephen Walbrook, London

This  church in the very centre of the city of London is regarded by many to be the greatest by Sir Christopher Wren, after St Paul's Cathedral. It is not particularly inspirng from without. Indeed the noted architectural writer T. Francus Bumpus wrote "Never was so rich a jewel in so poor a setting, so sweet a kernel in so poor a husk" The tower and steeple are vfine though and one of his last creations. Wren lavished a deao of care on this church for he lived next door!

Next to the Mansion House, it is   easy to overlook this masterpiece

This church has always been surrounded and in the very centre of things. The original building was Saxon, probably 8th century. It stood on the east bank of the Wal Brook stream - now gone underground and one of London's lost rivers.  The church was rebuilt on the west bank of the stream about 1430 only to be destroyed in the Great Fire in 1666. The rebuilding by Wren in 1672-80 was one of the earliest and largest of his city churches.

Exterior with "carbuncle"

Whoops! Another carbuncle : coffee again! What is it aboutr coffee in the early 21st century that we have to have so many outlets?

Model without carbuncles or Starbucks

Entrance with steep steps and wondeful surrise at the top

Inside is all lightness and to me, a sense of joy and celebration. I am never totally sure about the Moore altar brought in during Lord Palumbro's sponsorship 1978-87/ It has been described as a ripe Camembert cheese! As I believe camembert to be one of mankind's greatest invertions I ought to like it!  I do not like reredoses like the one here though - original or not! Brings out the Catholic in me!
The dome is simply magnificent and is the first of  its kind in any English church. I could try to describe it but the technical words would not come easily and  not convey the splendour : nor do photos. This is a three dimensional  joy that you have to see for yourself! Wonder how many tourusts miss it!

The best way to experience this wonderful place is to go to a concert there - organ recitals are common (only getting 30 or so audience - how sad) or just walk round and round enjoying the changing spatial effects.  Sir John Vanbrugh is buried here and a plaque tells you that John Dunstable was buried in the old church in 1453 - maybe the greatest composer in Europe at that time,                       

In the reordering and restoration after the last War the new altar by Henry Moore was intruced

Central altar with new pews. Note old reredos where old altar stood

Into the dome

rear viedw to organ and entrance door

Pulpit

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar, Valletta

Valletta is full of Baroque! The whole islands of Malta and Gozo are punctuated by massive Baroque churches with domes all trying to outdo each other in their communion with the heavens.  My first post about Malta is not going to be about the great churches like St John's Pro Cathedral in Valletta ; instead a small church in one of the side streets. I came across it early one morning before 8.00. Its quiet atmosphere with local people in prayer was deeply moving. Malta is full of such churches and is strongly Catholic. If I think of Valletta I flash back to that morning - quiet and sunny, nestling in the centre of the Mediterranean.

The Church of Our Lady of the Pillar was financed by the Aragonese Kights of St John and built in the 1670s; damaged in the earthquake of 1693 and remodelled by Ramano Carapecchia. The main painting, depicting Our Lady appearing to St James is by Stefano Erardi. The ceiling was painted by Gian Nikola Buhagiar and depicts the coronation of Our Lady.