This will be my first Californian post and I am stretching the "Baroque Church" label to the utmost!! I came across Junipero Serra in Palma, on the island of Majorca. A huge Franciscan Church with his statue outside. This made a big impression on me as I had no idea before then of his significance and legacy.
| Statue of Junipero Serra in Palma, Majorca. |
The "Jewel of the Californian Missions ; containing the oldest building in California and the only place we know Fr. Junipero Serra will have said Mass - I have to post about San Juan Capistrano! Some years ago we hoped to visit California but had to cancel through ill health. May be one day. I'm fortunate in having scooped up several excellent books including Roger G.Kennedy's Mission : the history and architecture of the Missions of North America. Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1993. With these and the Wikipedia photos and You Tube videos it's getting like I've been there.
Our target today was not the first Mission in California, and how come there were Missions anyway? As early as 1542 Juan Rodrigo Cabrillo had explored the Californian coast, and Sebastian Vizvaino had landed at the future San Diego in 1602. However California was viewed as the far frontier by the Spanish Crown, and despite pressure from the Franciscans and Jesuits, no great efforts were made toward colonisation. The news that Russian fur traders and explorers had established a presence on the Farallon Islands (near present day San Francisco) may have led to fears of Russian ambition. I have always been mystified why Russians were on the west coast of America when they had the huge Siberian spaces... Anyway, King Carlos III of Spain at last decided California should be a priority and Don Gaspar de Portola as new Governor of Baja California and Fr Junipero Serra (Franciscan)as supervisor of newly created Missions were set to work. What a dainting task! The big change now being introduced was that no longer would Missions be contolled by religious orders, but under military control. As we saw in earlier posts the Jesuits were in charge in the Paraguay Missions. Now the Jesuits were out of the picture the Franciscans would lead the spiritual side of Missions in California.
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| The stone Church ruin |
It was considered a long way between San Diego and San Gabriel so a small party led by Fr Fermin Lasuen founded a new Mission at Capistrano on 30 Oct 1775.A week later it had to be abandoned because of serious attacks by Indians. Fr Lasuen buried the four heavy bells they had brought and retired to San Diego. The following year Fr Serra refounded it on 1 November 1776. The following year an adobe Church 120 feet long and 17 feet wide was dedicated and bells placed in a tower in 1791. Fr Serra died in 1784 and by 1794 a bigger church was needed The expert Mexican stonemason Isador Aguilar, was put in charge of its building. It was to be a Latin cross with nave and trnsepts. The roof was to be made up of 6 domes. Stone for the construction had to obtained from local creek beds and valley gullies and dragged up to the site by the local population. The Church took 9 years to build and unfortunately Aguilar died 3 years from completion. and this helps to explain mistakes in construction due to inadequate supervision. For example a seventh dome had to be put in to fill the space. The building was 180 feet long 30 feet wide nave with transepts 20 feet each and a 120 foot bell tower visible from 10 miles away. It was a fantastic achievement and celebrated with all civil, military and religious dignitaries with a two day fiesta in September 1806. Then disaster struck in December 1812 with a major earthquake causing the vault to split, the ceiling to collapse on the congregation and 40 deaths. The stone sanctuary with its dome remained and many fine wooden statues and the old stone baptismal font along with candlesticks, vestments and pictures, No attempt was made to rebuild the huge church and the original small church used by Serra was reused. In 1813 the bells from the big church were installed in the still existant bell wall.
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| The bell wall |
Economically the Mission was successful with a population of 1361 in 1812.Barley, maize and wheat were the main crops with a peak of 14,562 bushels in 1818. grown. It owned 22,000 cattle and 8 ranches in 1818. In particular there was a thriving trade in hides and tallow for candles and soap.In 1783 the Mission produced the first wine in Alta California.
These activities were disrupted in 1818 by the pirate Hippolyte Bouchard who raided the Mission. The inmates took refuge elsewhere but the local military nelected to prevent considerable damage to property and theft, especially wine barrels. Decline set in with Mexican Governor Echeandia's decree that the Indians had no longer any obligation to follow the orders of the Franciscans. In 1833 Governor Figueroa made Capistrano a pueblo of free Indians. This might have worked if legal safeguards had been built in to protect the rights of the Indians. They were still subject to control of civil administrators whose salaries were even paid by them. They soon lost their property, crops and livestock as these inevitably went to white settlers, a process completed by 1845. Part of the mission was returned to the Church in 1865 but the buildings continued to deteriorate over the rest of century.
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| Serra Church |
It was Fr John O'Sullivan who was key in reviving the condition of the Mission from 1910 to 1933. In particular he restored the original little church that had been a granary and store room for many years. He helped to arrange the Spanish golden altar, a gift of the late Archbishop Cantwell of Los Angeles.
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| The Mission today |
So we come to today's picturesque ruin with its vine-covered walls and pretty flower-filled gardens and famous swallows. Every 19 March,St Joseph's Day, thousands of swallows congregate here - sometimes delayed by storms - the bulk usually around the day. They are cliff swallows and build their nest of saliva dn mud against he broken arches of the Mission.
plan view of the Mission San Juan Capistrano complex (including the footprint of the "Great Stone Church") prepared by architectural historian Rexford Newcomb in 190816.[34]
The plan above shows the Guard House U, visitors' rooms C in the Plaza, the ruins of he stone church, and in the Patio the Serra Church B and Wine room M, Hides and Tallow N Carpentry amd Wood weaving O and P, Soap making R. The bell wall at the side of the stone church ruin contains four new bells cast in 2000 in Arle-Rixtel in the Netherlands with moulds made from the originals. These originals are now displayed right by where they originally hung in the bell tower of the stone church.
The Serra original Church has brightly coloured native ceiling motifs.In the sanctuary the altar reredos is much more ornate than any original which may have occupied the space. The reredos came over from Spain in 1906 to go into a Cathedral in Los Angeles. Never used there it was given to our Church and installed 1922-4. It is 17th century and had to be trimmed down in order to fit the space. A more than worthy home.Finally to really get the atmosphere with no text - just music here is a great video!
Mission San Juan Capistrano video tour presented by California Missions Foundation. Video courtesy Cultural Global Media archives and music provided by our esteemed CMF member Dr. Craig Russell and vocal ensemble Chanticleer.

















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