I haven't been to Goa, but I had picked up that it is different from the usual images we see of India : Rajasthan, Taj Mahal, Benares, Delhi. This is because it stems from the Portuguese incursion here as far back as 1510, first set up by Alfonso de Albuquerque. Yes, it was Portuguese and only became part of India by force in 1961. It's now a popular holiday resort with fine beaches, distinctive cuisine and music merging Portuguese fado with lilting Konkani folk songs. Colonial mansions, Hindu temples and white-washed churches mingle together.
But it is St Francis Xavier that has brought me to Goa. The great Jesuit missionary to the Far East began his work in Italy but was commisioned by Dom Joao II of Portugal to go to Goa. He arrived there in 1542 working tirelessly ministering to locals, both the sick and those losing faith. Many of these were pearl fishers, converted several years earlier. After travelling and preaching in Malaysia he came back to Goa in 1548 working and developing the College of Faith here for training priests.Goa was therefore a crucial place for the Jesuits and for the Christian mission in the Far East.
Although Francis died just off the coast of China in December 1552 his body was returned to Goa in March 1554 and taken to the Jesuit College of St Paul. Canonisation came in 1622 and in 1624 his remains were moved to the Basilica of Bom Jesus. By then the Counter Reformation of the Catholic Church was in full swing and the Jesuits and the King of Portugal both wanted to gain from the popularity of a developing cult of Francis Xavier. To consolidate their hold on power in Goa, Portuguese Viceroys of Goa went through a ritual whereby they laid down their staff of command to ask for Xavier's blessing and protection. The Basilica thereby became a centre of political power in Goa as well as spiritual pilgrimage through the shrine of Francis Xavier.
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| The Basilica today |
The suppression of the Jesuits and their expulsion in 1773 did not end the importance of the Basilica. In 1782 the state arranged the first exposition of the saint's remains - perhaps to reassure locals that the Jesuits had not removed the body to Rome! (Remember, part of his right arm was already in the Gesu Church in Rome). In 1834 the other missionary orders were expelled and Old Goa with its churches was neglected - for examble the large Church of Augustine in 1842 collapsed and there is only part of a tower left. Old Goa was no longer the capital of the little state after it moved about 10 kilometers to Panjim in 1843. The Basilica survived though and in 1859 the second exposition of the saint was organised by the state. Immensely popular with locals, this has become a regular event and attracted the faithful from far and wide. Today millions visit every 10 years when there is an exposition.
The basilica was built by the Jesuits 1594-1605 as part of their residence. It was more modest than the Se (Cathedral) or St Augustine (Augustinian). It was built of soft flaky local laterite stone to be whitewashed with lime plaster; but when it came to the facade Bassein basalt was used. This could be carved. It is in three tiers vertically and horizontally. Ionic columns on the first or ground tier, Doric on the second and Corinthian on the third. The pilasters that divide the tiers vertically are of laterite and were to be plastered and whitewashed. In the 1950s the church was restored by Baltasar Castro and the plaster was removed so that the laterite was exposed throughout. Perhaps the intention was to make it look more ancient. The problem now is that the stonework is porous and deteriorating and at some point will require urgent attention. Replastering is controversial.
The whole exterior had a major impact on other churches being built subsequently in Goa. It was like the protoype. However local patrons and local artisans made their own contributions with each successive building so the outcome in Goan churches was far from simple Portuguese church lookalikes.
Internally there is a balcony over the entrance for a choir.
The main nave and side aisles are 50 metres by 23 metres and the chancel 15 by 15 metres. The nave has a wooden ceiling and the chancel a coffered barrel vault.
The chapel of St Francis Xavier contains a marble tomb, donated by Cosimo III de Medici, Duke of Tuscany in 1652. The remains of St Francis are in a glass container encased in a silver casket made by Goan silversmiths 1636/7 blending Italian and Indian features.
The chancel ends with a gilded altar, with St Ignatius in the centre.. No wonder Old Goa was called Goa Dourada (Golden Goa)
If you visit behave! No food, drink, no photos, no mobiles, no shorts and silence. (So different from St Albvans Cathedral...)
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