St Peter, Mainz

Mainz was a place of pilgrimage to two trainee librarians back in 1972! For here was the Johannes Gutenberg Museum celebrating  the inventor of movable metal type in Western Europe in 1439.  But I remembered more of the huge Romanesque Cathedral nearby with its amazing  spires. 

Coming back in 2018 for the Christmas Market we were enchanted by the squares surrounding the great cathedral. But where would the Elector Archbishop have operated? He was a key player in the old Holy Roman Empire as president of the electoral college, arch-chancellor of the empire and primate of Germany until the dissolution of the empire in 1806. We found the remnant of his palace on the riverfront as we walked to our hotel.

Nearby was a large baroque church - St Peter's. There has been a church here since 944 but the present rococo one only dates from 1748, by Johann Valentin Thomann, the court architect. Sadly this was gutted in the last war. Restoration took place 1979-89. The original frescos by JosepheAppiani were destroyed and have been redone by the Bavarian afrtist Karl Manninger and his pupile Hermengild Peiker. They tell of the life and legends of St Peter. The crucifixion scene of the saint upside down is deeply memorable. Fortunately the richly gilded pulpit by Johann Forster and some 16th century altars by court sculptor Hans Backoffen survived and have been restored. The central altar contains a modern sculpture showing all kinds of human fishes wriggling in a bronze net.

This restoration is a triumph and it was great to be able attend a Mass for the feast of Christ the King. The organist joined in the triumph from his gallery and priest and people combined in a joyous shout in perfect harmony with the rococo brilliance of the interior.

St Peter Crucifixion