St Paul's Cathedral, London

How can anyone write anything new about St Paul's? A national symbol and  ancient and present religious centre of the City of London. The Great Fire of London of 1666 destroyed the old Medieval cathedral beyond repair. It had been the largest in the country, but with some curious additions, like the 17th century classical west portal by Inigo Jones. The story of how we got Sir Christopher Wren's masterpiece  can be read elsewhere. Thankfully it survived the Second World War virtually unscathed and is the place for national celebration ( Prince Charles and Princess Diana wedding 1981 ; Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee 1897 and Queen Elizabeth II Golden 2002, Diamond 2012)and memorial (Funeral for Nelson 1806 Churchill 1965) Enough said : now  I am going to restrict myself to personal observations gained over the years since my first schoolboy visit.

Used to medieval cathedrals I entered this huge monumental monster - so wide, so magnificent and yet  somehow cold and intimidating. I had heard about the Whispering Gallery (259 steps) but not the miracle of the construction of that dome within a dome. The paintings in the dome by Thornhill did not mean much either. I remember climbing up the dome. Another occasion I even reached the ball at the top - superb view of course but in those days there was the horror of the neighbouring Paternoster Square. Each time I visited I felt the similarly intimidated I think.

Next memories are of attending concerts here. Berlioz Requiem in 1969 (the centenary year of death of one of my heroes) which suited the building. Bach b minor Mass which I heard about 3 times the same night because of the 9 second echo! Haydn's Nelson Mass sung during Eucharist one Sunday was powerful but like an out of focus photo. The organ is huge with pipes in the original choir screen, in the dome and the triforium. I have yet to hear the huge chamade trumpets high above the west door. Apparently when the Queen and Prince Philip first heard them, he muttered "what the b..... hell is that?" and the Queen doesn't like them either and brings her own Kneller Hall trumpeters. I can't wait to hear these pipes! You can listen to it in the video below.

I keep promising myself to pay the massive entry fee and have a good look - see everything.  Then this month I was lucky enough to have a sponsored tour by an experienced guide. Those great west doors, usually closed, when swung open (effortlessly because of modern technology) would be magic. We saw the famous circular staircase in the southwest tower  from 1705. We saw the Chapel of St Michael and St George.

St George and St Michael Chapel

The famous staircase in the southeast tower which leads up to the library

The paintings in the dome, the idea of which Wren disapproved,  are by Sir John Thornhill (the only living British painter capable of doing it?). The mosaics around the dome and over the choir are Victorian. I deduce that the original effect would have been plainer, more classical, more Palladian. That brings me to the question of whether St Paul's Baroque at all and instead more  a Classical or Renaissance building. Hours could be spent debating this. The truth is that it is a synthesis of different styles (medieval, classical and baroque) pulled together by a mastermind, and having to accomodate differing  obligations.

Dome into the choir : choir screen originally blocked this off

Originally the choir was separated off by the choir screen ; the magnificent wooden choir stalls are 17th century. The Victorians wanted a view straight down the nave through to the choir so the screen and organ were removed in 1860. A Victorian marble reredos was lost in 1940  and the more Baroque present altar and baldacchino were consecrated in 1958.

Victorian mosaics

Choir and baldacchino

 I still cannot say that I know this great building. There remains something intimidating about it. I can't  yet put my finger on it but it does not move me almost to tears as do Weingarten in Germany or Notre Dame in Paris or indeed our own Abbey in St Albans.

300 monuments crowd the building in nave and crypt with Wellington and Nelson most prominent ; none are part of my story. For me it is the simple plaque and place of burial for the 91 year old Sir Christopher Wren in the crypt with the Latin inscription put there by his son  " Reader, if you seek a monument, look around you."

Wren's grave and memorial