El Paular Cartuja

 

Back in 2000 on a central Spanish trek, we came across this unique Carthusian  monastery. It was a Royal foundation made  in 1390 and was the first Cartuja or Chartreuse in Castille and Leon. The Carthusian monastery ceased in 1835 but Benedictines have set up there since 1954. It took three attempts to get inside because of quirky opening times. It was well worth it.   But it is basically a medieval complex so why is it here on Baroque Churches ?

First it contains a collection of 56 paintings by Vincent Carduccio, a rival of Velazquez. They were tailor-made for the cloister, each 3.45 by 3.15 metres in the shape of an arch to fit the openings in the cloister. Painted 1626-32 they cover the life and miracles of St Bruno of Cologne, founder of the Carthusians and the religious conflicts in 16th and 17th century Europe. For many years they had been taken away, but are now fully restored  in their rightful position. 

Second, an 18th century addition was made to the church : a complex camarin, the last work of Francisco Hurtado (1669-1725). A camarin is a special chapel or shrine built behind the high altar of a church. This famous example behind a magnificent late 15th altar, is most unusual. Begun in 1718 it was completed by Hurtado's pupils. Behind the high altar  a domed octagonal room with big windows on the upper part allows sunlight to focus on a central tabernacle (or sagrario) made out of coloured marble. This area is called the Transparente. It is a difficult room both to describe and photograph. The image below gives some idea.  Beyond the Transparente is a larger cruciform  room with 6 side chapels. It is another remarkable space.