Salzburg Cathedral

General view of the Cathedral  CC BY-SA 2.0 Mattana

The  Prince Archbishopric of Salzburg will equal  Colloredo and his treatment of Mozart to most people. Colloredo was the last in a long line of Prince-Archbishops from 798-1803. The first Cathedral had been built in 774. Archbishops Wolf Dietrich, Markus Sittikus and Paris Lodron created the Baroque city we know today.

Aerial view over this Baroque city with Cathedral  in foreground CC BY-SA 4.0 Bede735

 In 1598 the old Cathedral burnt down. Wolf Dietrich tries to patch up what is left of the cathedral quarter but after further structural collapses realises a new building will have to be built. In 1606 an order to demolish what is left of the medieval cathedral and conversiin of the Franciscan church as a temporary cathedral leads to  the new south-facing building started in 1611. Wolf Dietrich has to flee the city because of a Bavarian invasion. He is taken prisoner and resigns in 1612. His successor Markus Sittikus continues the construction but to a new plan, destroying Wolf Dietrtich's foundations and goes for an east facing three aisled basilica with four nave bays. It is designed by Santino Solari. Transept wings and choir are gathered around a domed crossing like a clover leaf. Progress is swift from 1614-1619 and when Markus died in 1619 the choir and transepts were roofed. Only the dome and nave roof were to be done. His successor Paris Lodron keeps Salzburg out of the Thirty Years War, and continues the building work with Solari in charge. All roofs are covered by 1622 and  vaults finished 1623.

High altar
CC-BY-SA 4.0 Diego Delso

 Solari brings in Italian plasterers and they work until 1628, Fra Arsenio Mascagni,a Servite priest from Florence, is employed to do ceiling frescos and altar pieces. He creates 86 partly monochrome frescos in the vaults of the central nave, choir, transepts and dome. Marble main altars are designed by Solari and given altarpieces by his son  Ignazio and Fra Arsenio. 

The great facade   CC-BY 2.0 Mattana

Central dome     CC-BY-SA 4.0 Diego Delso

The new Cathedral is inaugurated 25 September 1628 in massive celebrations lasting 8 days. The towers are unfinished and the side aisle altars lacking. Plasterers were still working on the interior until 1635. Final works likely done in 1652.

On my first visit in August 1967 I wrote "I went into the Cathedral and greatly admired its cleanliness and beautiful dome. Also of note were the vaults which were again absolutely spotless". I think I was surprised by the bareness and almost new feel of the building.(the dome had been bombed in 1944 and restoration onoy by 1959). I had not seen anything like it before. My next visit was on my birthday 15 July 1970.

So what do I think it is like after several more visits?

1.   Try  this amazing video below I have found with music  by Vladimir Sterzer  I am carried away,,,,,,,

2. This is how it is  when you walk in                     CC-BY-SA 4.0 Diego Delso

3.   This 369 degree film is fun. Try it!

                                             Fantastic improvising on the great organ Love it!

In conclusion : this was the first Italianate Baroque church built north of the Alps : it's proportions both inside and out are majestic. I once drove several hundred miles to hear the great organ for Sunday Mass and entering was like a homecoming. I now understand this building. It seemed new because of the major restoration after the War. It has so much to offer. I hope I shall return again.