Steinhausen

This is a very famous church. At least I thought so when I first came to this part of  Baden-Wurttemberg in March 1989. Arriving by train in Memingen with a single travelling bag, I expected to get a bus there easily. My command of German was even less impressive in those days but I could understand bus stop menus. No mentions. How was to get there? Taxi. The first driver hadn't heard of it. Same from several others. I insisted and eventually one of them took pity on me and off we drove through the local rolling hills. I watched the meter clocking up kilometres and DMs nervously, hoping that I had not misunderstood a fixed rate. Great relief when he switched the meter off and we soon arrived in a village dominated by an incredible church. He disappeared off into the local cafe while I timidly opened the church door. No-one inside - just me. Wow!

It was mandatory to return here in our great Baroque Church crawl in August2019! From all directions this great church sails above the roof tops. From the outside it appears square but inside is oval with an overwhelming emphasis on light and toward the high altar. It measures 150 feet long 106 feet to roof ridge  and a 205 feet tower. The central oval has some rectangular sections added to east and west.

 It is a pilgrimage church commissioned by the Abbot of Schussenried from the Zimmermann brothers in 1727.As work proceeded costs quadrupled and the Abbot had to retire. Zimmermann had his request to end his days in the Abbey were refused.

Below are 3 views as you are entering through the main west door. Go through the door, under the organ gallery and then you have the full splendour of the church up to the high altar.

An  abiding memory for me is  the height of this temple and the joyous light with white and gold decoration. The challenge to Baroque architecture of length and centrality is solved here - the oval plus a shallow sanctuary. Two side altars are placed obliquely  on the side of the oval, unsymmetrical in design They lead the eye from one to the other and then to the high altar. Pilgrims will look at the stucco apostles on the pier tops for these are our intercessors. The ceiling seems roofless - the ballustrade around increases this effect. When in hospital recently I can remember lying in bed recovering (probably still recovering from the anaesthetics) and I had a strong feeling of the ceiling disappearing - just like it does here at Steinhausen. Here as we walk towards the high altar, the fresco of Mary with angels and saints in glory acting as Queen of Heaven and the gateway to the New Testament. The Garden of Eden has been superceded. There is unity between the ceiling and  high altar paintings below. Fine stucco abounds everywhere : much fruit and leaves, even  birds on windows and capitals, also insects.

The fresco in the chancel by JB Zimmermann shows an angelic consort and. Christ is resurrected and will open  the Book of the Apocalypse. she  realises she is to be honoured with the doors opened and Immaculate Mary to be carried up. Mary is our Advocate.

The fresco in front of the organ gallery recalls Paradise : the tree of knowledge and in the middle are Adam and Eve. To the east in front of the chancel is the hortus conclusus with a fountain and all kinds of trees. Its water flows from a heart with the monogram of the BVM on it. The message is that the enclosed garden and the sealed fountain are Mary Mother of God. There are the four continents on the north and south sides ; Africa with an elephant, America with a crocodile, Asia with a came;, Europe an imperial eagle.